Forums › General Discussion › hatch sealant
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Anonymous.
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January 13, 2015 at 4:21 pm #69042
Anonymous
I know we’ve covered this in the past, but…
What would a savvy owner use to seal the Lexan on the overhead
aluminum-frame hatches? There seems to be a variety of Sikaflex
sealants. Haven’t figured out yet whether one is better suited to
hatch application, perhaps with UV deterrent in it. Anyone have
some experience with something that works well?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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January 13, 2015 at 4:28 pm #81998
Anonymous
Dow Corning 795 is my sealant of choice as well as the people who make
skyscrapers.Bob
On Jan 13, 2015 11:21 AM, “Silverheels via maillist” <
> wrote:I know we’ve covered this in the past, but…
What would a savvy owner use to seal the Lexan on the overhead
aluminum-frame hatches? There seems to be a variety of Sikaflex
sealants. Haven’t figured out yet whether one is better suited to
hatch application, perhaps with UV deterrent in it. Anyone have
some experience with something that works well?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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January 13, 2015 at 6:27 pm #81999
Anonymous
Glad to have a second on that motion. Thanks, Skip.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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January 13, 2015 at 6:27 pm #82000
Anonymous
Thanks, Bob. That’s what I’ll use – on the boat hatches AND on my next skyscraper.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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January 14, 2015 at 2:38 am #82001
Anonymous
I agree with Bob, Dow Corning 795. It’s what I used on my recent hatch replacement project. ( http://pagetwo88.blogspot.com/2014/09/bomar-cast-alluminum-hatch-rebuild.html )
It “is” the product to use IMO. Easy to work with out of the tube, a real treat. I recommend you mask everything, all edges, and then use a plastic spatula type tool to smooth out, then pull the tape and refrain from screwing with it until it’s cured.
You might be able to get a similar product off the shelf at a glass store but I found DC 795 for under $10 on line.
Ken -
January 14, 2015 at 2:00 pm #82002
Anonymous
Hey Ken,
$6.39 on Amazon, but $12.38 total for one tube, with shipping.
– How many tubes did you use on 3 hatches?
– What paint did you use over the zinc chromate?
– Where’d you get the new lens stock?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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January 14, 2015 at 2:34 pm #82003
Anonymous
Tor,
I figured a tube a hatch. Just opened the third tube to finish.I’m a bit embarrassed about the paint I used, but it did the job, and it
was cheap. I had half a qt on board that came with the boat so I just
bought another. Rust-oleum, It sucked to work with, wouldn’t lay down and
spread like tomato past. Use “anything” but that. So many opinions on
paint, I think just a good oil base or polyurethane would be fine.The 1/4″ (actually .223) plastic lens stock came from a local glass company
that sells everything to do with glass and mirrors. I had them cut the
square to size (they were not super accurate and I ended up cutting them
down more to give plenty of room for expansion. (1/8″ per ft.?) I think the
three pieces cost $80 something.
KenOn Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 8:40 AM, Silverheels via maillist <
> wrote:Quote:Hey Ken,$6.39 on Amazon, but $12.38 total for one tube, with shipping.
– How many tubes did you use on 3 hatches?
– What paint did you use over the zinc chromate?
– Where’d you get the new lens stock?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Original Message
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January 14, 2015 at 5:47 pm #82004
Anonymous
OK, thanks, Ken.
I use Rustoleum sometimes without complaint. In fact, their “marine” paint lasted 6 or 7 years on Silverheels’ foredeck before I just recently put a fresh coat on. Can’s ask much more than that. Sounds like yours might’ve benefitted from a little thinning and maybe straining – or can paint just get too old? Anyway, I’m glad to know someone besides me doesn’t feel obliged to make these little projects into state-of-the-art rocket science. It’s just a boat.
I’ve got a couple of projects ahead of the hatches, so I’ve time to think about it and gather the materials. I expect I’ll pretty much duplicate what you did, plus I need to fill & re-drill some thread-worn frame screw holes that no longer grab & hold their lens screws.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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January 14, 2015 at 6:03 pm #82005
Anonymous
Start of attached email. Subject: Re: hatch sealant
I use krylon white gloss on my steering pedestal with gray results. Lasts in salt water and easy to touch up when scratched.
Alan
Unabated
Sent from my iPhoneQuote:On Jan 14, 2015, at 12:27 PM, Silverheels via maillist wrote:OK, thanks, Ken.
I use Rustoleum sometimes without complaint. In fact, their “marine” paint lasted 6 or 7 years on Silverheels’ foredeck before I just recently put a fresh coat on. Can’s ask much more than that. Sounds like yours might’ve benefitted from a little thinning and maybe straining – or can paint just get too old? Anyway, I’m glad to know someone besides me doesn’t feel obliged to make these little projects into state-of-the-art rocket science. It’s just a boat.
I’ve got a couple of projects ahead of the hatches, so I’ve time to think about it and gather the materials. I expect I’ll pretty much duplicate what you did, plus I need to fill & re-drill some thread-worn frame screw holes that no longer grab & hold their lens screws.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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