There are so many better choices than another Westerbreakyourwallet.

Bill
I’m not sure where you got $20k to repower including installation. That sounds like a deal to me, but I suppose it could be that low if the quote only includes an engine-swap and they plan on replacing nothing else. I paid more than that just for my engine, v-drive, new prop, and related parts. I did all the labor. Once you start something like this its hard to stop. One thing leads to another and before you know it you’ve replaced everything. Small things add-up, hoses, fasteners, cables, etc. Here’s a link to the total cost at the bottom of this page in excel format. You can prune the list according to your plans.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Seatrial.html

I found the link to the 40hp engine. If the boat was a total loss, did water get into the crankshaft? If so, did they get it out of the boat and pickle it in time?

I wouldn’t want to spend a pile of money and time repowering only to be disappointed with the results. I think you’ll find 40hp to be less than satisfactory. For most of us, $20k is a painful expense so I can understand how you might be tempted to cut corners. I find that I motor at least 75% of the time when cruising up and down the New England coast. The wind always seems to either be light or from the wrong direction. I just plan it that way. Your cruising area is known for high winds. If you want to be able to motor into a headwind at reasonable speed, I think you’ll be happier with something close to what you had before.

Rich

Bill,
+1 on Rich’s post. No matter how you do the repower (new or used, DIY or
hire it out) it is a major expense. Make sure you consider the cost of
having that used engine thoroughly surveyed (or what it might cost to have
a re-build if it has problems). Even the warranty on a new engine is
rarely for more than a year, and my experience with Mack Boring tells me
there is not such thing as “Good Will” with these guys. I hired out my
repower to a yard I had been dealing with for nearly 40 years. When there
were problems with the products provided by Mack Boring, that yard at least
understood the meaning of “Good Will”.

My experience with motoring vrs pure sailing is pretty much in line with
both Rich and Tor. When I was a weekend and vacation cruiser like most of
your who are still working for a living (please keep making those FICA
payments – I really appreciate it) I needed to be home Sunday night even if
the wind was blowing 20kts on the nose. Since I’ve retired I’ve made about
4 trips up and down the ICW. Not much sailing there and you need power
when the current is against you and you are approaching a bridge that is
about to shut down for the rush hour traffic. Even when I’m on off-shore
passages I’ve used the engine more than I would like to admit. As Tor
points out, that is a choice not a requirement. However I often have to
take on crew for these passages, and they usually don’t buy into the purist
point of view. If I have enough fuel, the engine normally comes on when
the winds go too light for effective sailing.

Since I did not have enough confidence in my skills as a mechanic I opted
out of the DIY repower approach. I spent months reviewing specs on the
various engine options. It came down to a choice between Yanmar and Beta.
There were no yards in my area (Pax River, MD) with good experience with
Beta. The best yard in the area was primarily a Yanmar dealer (and the
local distributor). They were also a Beta dealer, but as the Beta Brit in
NC told me that was just a $200 investment in the basic parts kit so they
could claim to being a Beta dealer. So I chose to have the yard install a
Yanmar – the engine they knew best.

Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

+1 for Rich as well. 40 HP is too little, and a dunked engine is not a good
investment.

Here’s what I have to say about beta vs. Yanmar: beta marine engines are
minors engines with marinized cooling systems. You can get replacement
parts everywhere, not just beta dealers. Yanmar parts are universally
expensive.

Just my two cents.

Bob

I second Bob. Read my articles on engine selection and installation at dublerfamily.com

Pete

Really nice article Pete! I’m curious, did you keep track of your expenses? If so, what was the tally?

Did you replace the v-drive, shaft, or prop at the same time?

Rich

Well yes and no, re expenses. Because I write for a magazine, I often get wholesale or better pricing so the numbers I have would not really apply to others. BUT, I can tell you that the whole job can be done really well DIY for under $15K including upgrading the fuel system, putting in a new engine bed, rebuilding the tranny, and all new exhaust system and wiring including the high current cables. In that price I include all of the upgrades I had added to the Beta 50 as discussed in the article. I did not replace the V-drive, shaft, or prop. The V-Drive was rebuild after survey when I bought the boat. The prop is a Max-Prop. The shaft had been replaced in the past (I have two shafts aboard).