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Guys
I am going to make a panel for a fuel gauge, ignition switch, plug for VHF mic, and windlass switch. I am going to locate the panel on the starboard side of the helm on the cockpit combing. I wanted to know if anyone could think of anything else that should be located in that panel. I don’t want to fabricate the panel too small. Does anybody know if there are prefabricated panels available that would be similar to the original Pearson instrument panel?
Linus
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Vacuum gauge for the fuel is handy to know when your racor is clogging before it actually does.
I was going to put a 12v outlet there to plug in a spotlightOn 12/16/08 7:19 PM, Linus Martinez wrote :
Guys
I am going to make a panel for a fuel gauge, ignition switch, plug for VHF mic, and windlass switch. I am going to locate the panel on the starboard side of the helm on the cockpit combing. I wanted to know if anyone could think of anything else that should be located in that panel. I don’t want to fabricate the panel too small. Does anybody know if there are prefabricated panels available that would be similar to the original Pearson instrument panel?
Linus
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I put a 12v outlet (Marinco) at the aft end of the starboard built in winch handle holder. this way it is protected from weather. I also mounted a push button momentary switch in there to control mast mounted electric horns.
Rodd
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Consider Front Panel Express for making your panel.
Another option is to find a local laser engraver and making it out of plastic. If you use “reverse engraved” technique, the lettering is engraved from the back and filled with paint. The front is smooth so it is easy to keep clean (no dirt accumulates in the engraving. I use this technique for panels for all my panels and they look great. You do your layout in Adobe Illustrator (which incidentally is the same application underlying the free design tool from Front Panel Express). If you can’t find a local laser engraver, I can recommend Ormond Barstow at http://www.stampworldonline.com ormond@stampworldonline.
Here is an example of a panel I made using this technique:
One thing we could pursue is if several folks wanted new breaker panels, I could lay them out and we could split the set-up fees between the bunch of us. The problem is design by committee…
One thing I would do is break out some of the circuit breakers more. I have one sub-panel just for lights, one for pumps, etc.
I also mounted some of these lights above the switches so I can see them at night (they are really tiny): I used the first ones listed here, but the others are equally nice. I wired them in solid to a separate panel of just switches.
http://www.bellautomotive.com/asp/product_details.asp?id=24133
http://www.bellautomotive.com/asp/product_details.asp?id=24134
http://www.bellautomotive.com/asp/product_details.asp?id=24460Pete
Linus Martinez wrote:
Guys
I am going to make a panel for a fuel gauge, ignition switch, plug for VHF mic, and windlass switch. I am going to locate the panel on the starboard side of the helm on the cockpit combing. I wanted to know if anyone could think of anything else that should be located in that panel. I don’t want to fabricate the panel too small. Does anybody know if there are prefabricated panels available that would be similar to the original Pearson instrument panel?
Linus
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Pete
Reverse engraving the panel is a great idea. If you sandwich two panels together, you can paint the surface of the bottom panel thereby protecting the painted surface from scratches.I used lexan for the engine panel I made. No lettering was required since there are no switches on it. I bought an appropriately sized hole saw for the gauges.
I’ve considered replacing my breaker panel, but there would be a lot of work involved with rewiring the whole panel. All I really need to do is refresh the white silk screening. I could probably make stick on letters, but the white stripes would be a challenge.
Has anyone seen a source for the original panel meters? My 12v meter sticks.
I’ve also considered making a small switch panel next to the breaker panel. IMHO, using the breakers to turn stuff on isn’t a good idea. It limits what you can control. Its OK for stuff that you normally leave on, but I prefer a separate switch for stuff like each instrument. I have things like running lights setup with relays so that when I turn on my engine the inverter and engine blower turn on and lights revert from masthead to deck and the steaming light comes on. I use a single-pole double-throw switch for each circuit. The switch has three positions, on, off, and auto. The auto position is controlled by the ignition key through a relay. I’ve been considering making a new panel for these switches.
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Rich Carter
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Rich,
RE: sourcefor the panel meters.My panel is Marinetics, which appears to be out of business. I have replaced my AC Ammeter with one from Blue Seas. They don't look the same, but they fit the panel cutouts and fastener holes. Blue Seas is of course available from WM and other retailers.
John
On Wed, Dec 17, 2008 at 12:04 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Pete
Reverse engraving the panel is a great idea. If you sandwich two panels together, you can paint the surface of the bottom panel thereby protecting the painted surface from scratches.I used lexan for the engine panel I made. No lettering was required since there are no switches on it. I bought an appropriately sized hole saw for the gauges.
I've considered replacing my breaker panel, but there would be a lot of work involved with rewiring the whole panel. All I really need to do is refresh the white silk screening. I could probably make stick on letters, but the white stripes would be a challenge.
Has anyone seen a source for the original panel meters? My 12v meter sticks.
I've also considered making a small switch panel next to the breaker panel. IMHO, using the breakers to turn stuff on isn't a good idea. It limits what you can control. Its OK for stuff that you normally leave on, but I prefer a separate switch for stuff like each instrument. I have things like running lights setup with relays so that when I turn on my engine the inverter and engine blower turn on and lights revert from masthead to deck and the steaming light comes on. I use a single-pole double-throw switch for each circuit. The switch has three positions, on, off, and auto. The auto position is controlled by the ignition key through a relay. I've been considering making a new panel for these switches.
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Rich Carter
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