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Hi All,
First, if anyone has a spare W58 heat exchanger please stand by. I may need
it.Here’s what’s happened: I went for a sail to meet up with friends in Oyster
Bay for the weekend and while pumping the bilge my friend saw the water
coming out was green – green like antifreeze. Um, I’m fairly sure that
shouldn’t be in the bilge. So I checked the engine and the expansion tank
was full, full. The overflow tank also full, full.I’m not interested the taste test inasmuch as antifreeze is poisonous. So
the water could be coming from one of two places: the water heater or the
raw water system. Naturally, the water in the heater is always pressurized
to 60lbs or so it could be leaking into the coolant system but the pump
doesn’t seem to run at random times. The expansion tank and overflow tank
may be below the waterline. I know the expansion tank is.I’ll be draining the engine today to see where the water is coming from.
Any hints or experiences are welcome…
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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hi Bob-
Sorry to hear about your problem! I will follow this with interest as I am
always wondering when I should replace my old Cupro Nickel heat exchangers
(now about 15 y ears old). I know if you see oil coming out the exhaust
it’s the oil cooler that’s shot, so I would think that if you see green it’s
your heat exchanger.standing by for your results–good luck!
Rodd Leeds
Original Message
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I know that the W60 heat-exchanger can be rebuilt by the manufacturer, Sendure. They might make the W58 exchanger also. Someone who’s had a rebuild done might know. If you walk into a Westerbeke store and ask for a new one hold onto your wallet.
Rich
Original Message
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If it’s only a few tubes, I’ll plug them. I know I can run fine with 50% of
them plugged….I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 19, 2011 12:36 PM, wrote:
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Thanks, Rich. That’s my second choice.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 19, 2011 12:36 PM, wrote:I know that the W60 heat-exchanger can be rebuilt by the manufacturer,
Sendure. They might make the W58 exchanger also. Someone who’s had a rebuild
done might know. If you walk into a Westerbeke store and ask for a new one
hold onto your wallet.Quote:Rich
Original Message
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You might try just pulling the heat exchanger and taking it to a radiator shop to have it tested. If it test ok, have them wash it and paint it and you’ll be lie new. If it’s bad… You’ll know for sure.
-p
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 19, 2011, at 10:50 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Thanks, Rich. That’s my second choice.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 19, 2011 12:36 PM, wrote:I know that the W60 heat-exchanger can be rebuilt by the manufacturer,
Sendure. They might make the W58 exchanger also. Someone who’s had a rebuild
done might know. If you walk into a Westerbeke store and ask for a new one
hold onto your wallet.Quote:Rich
Original Message
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
There’s a company on Ebay that sells Westerbeke heat exchangers for less that Westerbeke.
Sounds to me like something is forcing small amounts of water into your cooling system antifreeze side and it is forcing coolant out the pressure release valve in the coolant tank cap. Maybe the heat exchanger in your water heater has a small leak. Water heaters have check valves and can build a lot of pressure when heated by the engine.
Try taking off the coolant tank cap and see if the level rises when you turn on the pressure water. If not, try then heating water tank on shore power.
Quent -
That company is Sen-dure (sendure.com) and they make the heat exchangers.
Fortunately, or not as a replacement water heater is very expensive, it was
the water heater. The engine is still fine.As far as your suggestion goes, thanks. I was already on top of that. The
only way you can increase the water level in the engine is by 1; sinking the
boat, and 2; leaking from the higher pressure system to the lower – water
pressure to engine pressure. That’s it.Thanks.
Bob
On Wed, Sep 21, 2011 at 3:45 PM, quent wrote:
There’s a company on Ebay that sells Westerbeke heat exchangers for less
that Westerbeke.
Sounds to me like something is forcing small amounts of water into your
cooling system antifreeze side and it is forcing coolant out the pressure
release valve in the coolant tank cap. Maybe the heat exchanger in your
water heater has a small leak. Water heaters have check valves and can
build a lot of pressure when heated by the engine.
Try taking off the coolant tank cap and see if the level rises when you
turn on the pressure water. If not, try then heating water tank on shore
power.
Quent_______________________________________________
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it was either
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in there very
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound) works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’ve heard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine, at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon. I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right now price
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to know.Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actually pretty
easy.Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing – even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know how that
goes…Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi Bob-
We have been tempting fate with a Seaward 18 gallon water heater for about 10 years without a problem. Has a stainless outside which doesn’t rust like the original. Got it at a scratch and dent event at West. When it goes, we will get something smaller and hotter with a tempering valve.
Saw the non toxic stuff at West. Was a little worried about using it because of the aluminum parts on the W-58. The W-58 in our garage upon which I did an autopsy showed a good bit of corrosion inside around the t-stat housing and exhaust manifold. It made a goo that clogged the cooling system and inspired the repower that got me the engine on Ebay.
Quent -
Hi Quent,
First, are you parting out the engine? Second, the anti-corrosion part of
antifreeze doesn’t last long- perhaps a year or two, although they are
better now than ever. I’ve checked the non-toxic stuff and it does have
anti-corrosion additives.The inside of my tank looks clean and if I think its not working, I can
always go back.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 22, 2011 9:01 AM, “quent” wrote:Hi Bob-
We have been tempting fate with a Seaward 18 gallon water heater for about10 years without a problem. Has a stainless outside which doesn’t rust like
the original. Got it at a scratch and dent event at West. When it goes, we
will get something smaller and hotter with a tempering valve.Saw the non toxic stuff at West. Was a little worried about using it
because of the aluminum parts on the W-58. The W-58 in our garage upon which
I did an autopsy showed a good bit of corrosion inside around the t-stat
housing and exhaust manifold. It made a goo that clogged the cooling system
and inspired the repower that got me the engine on Ebay.Quent
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I’ve experienced the goo formation problems when I changed antifreeze from toxic to nontoxic. This plugged up the cooling system and led to overheating. I utilized a product called Dynamic Descaler to clean out the passageways. Unfortunately, it is not good for aluminum and I wound up having to replace the exhaust manifold because of pinholes caused by the descaler. What a series of headaches!
I went back to the old toxic coolant afterwards. Of course by this time, I had rebuilt the entire fresh and salt water cooling systems. I am looking forward to repowering with electric when the timing is right.!
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu -
-
Bob
For what it’s worth I have a Water Witch switch. No moving parts and won’t turn on if diesel is in the bilge instead of water.Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 8:10 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it was either
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in there very
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound) works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’ve heard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine, at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon. I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right now price
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to know.Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actually pretty
easy.Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing – even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know how that
goes…Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
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Hmmm, that sounds like a good idea, but how do you know your bilge is full
of diesel?I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 22, 2011 5:12 PM, “Linus Martinez” wrote:Bob
For what it’s worth I have a Water Witch switch. No moving parts and won’tturn on if diesel is in the bilge instead of water.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 8:10 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it waseither
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.
As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as
the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in there very
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound)
works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’ve heard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine,at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.
West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s
specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon. I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right nowprice
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that
one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to
know.
Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water
heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actuallypretty
easy.
Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed
switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing – even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know how that
goes…Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the
heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Diesel is not as good a conductor. It uses probes that connect when submerged.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 5:13 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hmmm, that sounds like a good idea, but how do you know your bilge is full
of diesel?I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 22, 2011 5:12 PM, “Linus Martinez” wrote:Bob
For what it’s worth I have a Water Witch switch. No moving parts and won’tturn on if diesel is in the bilge instead of water.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 8:10 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it waseither
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.
As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as
the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in there very
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound)
works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’ve heard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine,at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.
West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s
specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon. I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right nowprice
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that
one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to
know.
Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water
heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actuallypretty
easy.
Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed
switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing – even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know how that
goes…Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the
heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
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Ah , I understand their operation. Conductivity as opposed to capicitance.
Probably spelled wrong due to tacquila
Also spelled wrong.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 22, 2011 7:23 PM, “Linus Martinez” wrote:Diesel is not as good a conductor. It uses probes that connect when
submerged.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 5:13 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hmmm, that sounds like a good idea, but how do you know your bilge is
full
of diesel?
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 22, 2011 5:12 PM, “Linus Martinez”wrote:
Bob
For what it’s worth I have a Water Witch switch. No moving parts andwon’t
turn on if diesel is in the bilge instead of water.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 8:10 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it waseither
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.
As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as
the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in therevery
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.
Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound)
works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to
use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’veheard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine,
at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.
West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s
specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon.I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right now
price
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that
one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to
know.
Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water
heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actuallypretty
easy.
Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed
switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing –
even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know howthat
goes…
Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the
heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Great switch, but carry a spare. They fail from time to time and I have
had them fail in both the always on and never on way.On 9/22/2011 3:11 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
Bob
For what it’s worth I have a Water Witch switch. No moving parts and won’t turn on if diesel is in the bilge instead of water.Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 8:10 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it was either
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in there very
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound) works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’ve heard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine, at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon. I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right now price
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to know.Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actually pretty
easy.Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing – even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know how that
goes…Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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That’s also the principle that the water sensor in a Racor filter works
on. Water conducts better than diesel.On 9/22/2011 5:23 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
Diesel is not as good a conductor. It uses probes that connect when submerged.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 5:13 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hmmm, that sounds like a good idea, but how do you know your bilge is full
of diesel?I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 22, 2011 5:12 PM, “Linus Martinez” wrote:Bob
For what it’s worth I have a Water Witch switch. No moving parts and won’tturn on if diesel is in the bilge instead of water.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 8:10 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it waseither
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.
As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as
the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in there very
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound)
works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’ve heard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine,at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.
West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s
specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon. I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right nowprice
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that
one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to
know.
Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water
heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actuallypretty
easy.
Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed
switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing – even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know how that
goes…Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the
heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi Chuck,
Thanks for the info – I hope like hell that I don’t have to replace it
again. On the plus side, I must have fixed some niggly little leaks that
have plagued me for some time because I left the pump off for two days and
when I returned and turned it on it didn’t run. That’s a plus…I hear Wabasto makes pretty good stuff…
Bob
On Sat, Sep 24, 2011 at 9:32 PM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Bob, the Indel Wabasto units are pretty nice. Priced the same as the
Raratins. Footprint is odd though and not so certain you could get it under
the bunk.Chuck
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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