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Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….
I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wireIgnition on
12V on all wiresIgnition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this correctly?
Thanks!
-pSent from my iPhone
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Correction: I have the MC 614…
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:23 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….
I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wireIgnition on
12V on all wiresIgnition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this correctly?
Thanks!
-pSent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
I see in my W58 owner’s manual that for engines with an external push
button start, the electrical system is enabled by the fuel pressure.
So j guess my idea about the way the wires should be is wrong.-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:39 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Correction: I have the MC 614…
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:23 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….
I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wireIgnition on
12V on all wiresIgnition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this correctly?
Thanks!
-pSent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Ok… I think the thing to do is wire it to the brown wire which was
wired to the old regulator.In my wiring harness (w58) there is a three wire to four wire
connector. The main wires (engine side) are the orange oil pressure,
the yellow water temp, and a grey wire that goes to what I believe is
the fuel solenoid. On the other side of that connection is the brown
wire I mentioned and a black wire that goes to the switch in the
starboard lazarette which I am no longer calling the ignition switch
since all it seems to do is control the fuel pump.Whew… Ok. I’m wiring it up that way and then going to proceed with
the bleeding of the fuel lines, which I had been holding off on for
fear of frying the regulator.Wish me luck!
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 5:00 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:I see in my W58 owner’s manual that for engines with an external push
button start, the electrical system is enabled by the fuel pressure.
So j guess my idea about the way the wires should be is wrong.-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:39 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Correction: I have the MC 614…
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:23 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….
I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wireIgnition on
12V on all wiresIgnition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this correctly?
Thanks!
-pSent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Well, the engine started which is a good thing. The bad thing is I
still am not getting the correct voltages on the balmar. Back to the
drawing board, which means take the laptop to a bar with wifi and
watch the Seahawks.If anyone has suggestions I’d love to hear them.
-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 5:52 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Ok… I think the thing to do is wire it to the brown wire which was
wired to the old regulator.In my wiring harness (w58) there is a three wire to four wire
connector. The main wires (engine side) are the orange oil pressure,
the yellow water temp, and a grey wire that goes to what I believe is
the fuel solenoid. On the other side of that connection is the brown
wire I mentioned and a black wire that goes to the switch in the
starboard lazarette which I am no longer calling the ignition switch
since all it seems to do is control the fuel pump.Whew… Ok. I’m wiring it up that way and then going to proceed with
the bleeding of the fuel lines, which I had been holding off on for
fear of frying the regulator.Wish me luck!
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 5:00 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:I see in my W58 owner’s manual that for engines with an external push
button start, the electrical system is enabled by the fuel pressure.
So j guess my idea about the way the wires should be is wrong.-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:39 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Correction: I have the MC 614…
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:23 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….
I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wireIgnition on
12V on all wiresIgnition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this correctly?
Thanks!
-pSent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
When I ran my test this morning I didn’t let the engine run very long at all. I would think if the wire fuel pump solenoid is driving that wire it would have been on at that point. If I’m wrong and it’s the oil pressure would it take longer to switch on?
-p
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 18, 2011, at 9:49 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
Well, the engine started which is a good thing. The bad thing is I
still am not getting the correct voltages on the balmar. Back to the
drawing board, which means take the laptop to a bar with wifi and
watch the Seahawks.If anyone has suggestions I’d love to hear them.
-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 5:52 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Ok… I think the thing to do is wire it to the brown wire which was
wired to the old regulator.In my wiring harness (w58) there is a three wire to four wire
connector. The main wires (engine side) are the orange oil pressure,
the yellow water temp, and a grey wire that goes to what I believe is
the fuel solenoid. On the other side of that connection is the brown
wire I mentioned and a black wire that goes to the switch in the
starboard lazarette which I am no longer calling the ignition switch
since all it seems to do is control the fuel pump.Whew… Ok. I’m wiring it up that way and then going to proceed with
the bleeding of the fuel lines, which I had been holding off on for
fear of frying the regulator.Wish me luck!
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 5:00 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:I see in my W58 owner’s manual that for engines with an external push
button start, the electrical system is enabled by the fuel pressure.
So j guess my idea about the way the wires should be is wrong.-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:39 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Correction: I have the MC 614…
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:23 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….
I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wireIgnition on
12V on all wiresIgnition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this correctly?
Thanks!
-pSent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
OK.. I’ve had some beer and watched my Hawks lose which I am beginning to
think is a good thing so we can finally draft a QB.
Anyway, now that I’m relaxed and dug out my longer test wires I redid some
of my voltage tests. This time I ran the Ground (black) of the multimeter to
the Negative on the House bank and all the tests with the key on and off
were GOOD. When I use the black wire on the connection on the Balmar MC-614
as the ground the key on tests all FAIL.
Looks like we have a Ground issue, but I’m curious why it wouldn’t show in
both the Key On and Key Off tests…. more multimeter… this time directly
to the GND terminal on the alternator bypassing the black wire on the
Balmar. SAME FAILURES !! OK so we’ve got a ground problem.Not sure what’s next, but i feel like some progress was made.
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Sep 17, 2011 at 5:51 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Ok… I think the thing to do is wire it to the brown wire which was
wired to the old regulator.In my wiring harness (w58) there is a three wire to four wire
connector. The main wires (engine side) are the orange oil pressure,
the yellow water temp, and a grey wire that goes to what I believe is
the fuel solenoid. On the other side of that connection is the brown
wire I mentioned and a black wire that goes to the switch in the
starboard lazarette which I am no longer calling the ignition switch
since all it seems to do is control the fuel pump.Whew… Ok. I’m wiring it up that way and then going to proceed with
the bleeding of the fuel lines, which I had been holding off on for
fear of frying the regulator.Wish me luck!
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 5:00 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:I see in my W58 owner’s manual that for engines with an external push
button start, the electrical system is enabled by the fuel pressure.
So j guess my idea about the way the wires should be is wrong.-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:39 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Correction: I have the MC 614…
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 17, 2011, at 4:23 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Sorry for being such a pest today, it’s not going smoothly….
I thought I had the balmar mc-612 regulator wired up correctly, but in
doing the pretests with the voltmeter, I’m not getting the correct
results.The expected results are as follows while checking the main wires
coming off the unit. I’m using Black wire as my – in the tests.Ignition off
12+V on the red wire
0 on the brown ignition
0 on the field wireIgnition on
12V on all wiresIgnition off is fine.
Ignition on is wrong.I wired the brown ignition wire to the solenoid on the port engine
bulkhead to the terminal which was hot (12v) with the key on which is
pole #2 starting at the stern.My red wire is hooked to the + terminal on the alternator.
Field to field.
Black to alternator ground.I assume its the ign wire that is wrong, anyone who has done this
correctly?
Thanks!
-pSent from my iPhone
—
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
I would guess that your alternator wiring goes through a pressure switch on your engine. That way when you crank your engine the alternator provides no load to the starter. With a smart regulator, you don’t need this pressure switch since the regulator will phase the alternator up in stages. Bypass the fuel pressure switch.
Rich
Original Message
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-
My last little tests seem to indicate that ground is being controlled by the four pole soleoid on the port engine bulkhead above the engine, but I’m not positive of that yet. I think I can just wire the regulator ground to a proper ground instead of the alternator ground since bypassing that wire for ground gave me the proper test readings.
That will be today’s attempt.
Sent from my iPad
On 19, 2011, at 6:03AM, wrote:
Quote:I would guess that your alternator wiring goes through a pressure switch on your engine. That way when you crank your engine the alternator provides no load to the starter. With a smart regulator, you don’t need this pressure switch since the regulator will phase the alternator up in stages. Bypass the fuel pressure switch.Rich
Original Message
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
You should make a few wiring checks to make sure you have no voltage drops between the “sense wire” at the VR and the battery. In other words. the voltage at the battery should read about the same as the battery voltage at the regulator. Poor wiring practices, poor grounds etc would cause this….. and the results are improperly charged batteries.
Alan— On Mon, 9/19/11, Patrick wrote:
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
For the sake of clarity here’s the solenoid I’m talking about:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6163298280/I retraced my black wires on that solenoid the one on post #2 (from the
right) goes to the glowplug strap.
The one on the fourth post goes to the alternator ground.So that is the pre-heatglow plug solenoid.
Still doesn’t answer why my ground isn’t working… I’m going with my plan
to take the ground on the regulator to the engine block directly.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 9:01 AM, Patrick wrote:
My last little tests seem to indicate that ground is being controlled by
the four pole soleoid on the port engine bulkhead above the engine, but I’m
not positive of that yet. I think I can just wire the regulator ground to a
proper ground instead of the alternator ground since bypassing that wire for
ground gave me the proper test readings.That will be today’s attempt.
Sent from my iPad
On 19, 2011, at 6:03AM, wrote:
I would guess that your alternator wiring goes through a pressure switch
on your engine. That way when you crank your engine the alternator provides
no load to the starter. With a smart regulator, you don’t need this
pressure switch since the regulator will phase the alternator up in stages.
Bypass the fuel pressure switch.Quote:Rich
Original Message
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
That was an improvement! The Balmar powered on and I saw lights, on the unit, not in my befuddled brain! 😉
All test were correct with the exception of the field wire.
I also heard some clicking from the instrument cluster and they seemed to be bouncing a bit so I think we’re still not correct…. Calling Balmar.-P
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 19, 2011, at 9:43 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
Quote:For the sake of clarity here’s the solenoid I’m talking about:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6163298280/I retraced my black wires on that solenoid the one on post #2 (from the right) goes to the glowplug strap.
The one on the fourth post goes to the alternator ground.So that is the pre-heatglow plug solenoid.
Still doesn’t answer why my ground isn’t working… I’m going with my plan to take the ground on the regulator to the engine block directly.
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 9:01 AM, Patrick wrote:
My last little tests seem to indicate that ground is being controlled by the four pole soleoid on the port engine bulkhead above the engine, but I’m not positive of that yet. I think I can just wire the regulator ground to a proper ground instead of the alternator ground since bypassing that wire for ground gave me the proper test readings.That will be today’s attempt.
Sent from my iPad
On 19, 2011, at 6:03AM, wrote:
Quote:I would guess that your alternator wiring goes through a pressure switch on your engine. That way when you crank your engine the alternator provides no load to the starter. With a smart regulator, you don’t need this pressure switch since the regulator will phase the alternator up in stages. Bypass the fuel pressure switch.Rich
Original Message
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
And the ruling is… It was the ground. I believe the old alternator had a case ground and the new one needed an external ground. I ran a 2/0 wire from the alternator to. The common negative bus on my batteries and then things worked, it also didn’t help that the fuse in the 12v monitoring wire was blown! Now things are working!
All we have left todo is ensure the coolant system is proper and we’re off…
Feels good to be looking for weather windows to head south again!
-p
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 19, 2011, at 10:43 AM, Patrick wrote:
Quote:That was an improvement! The Balmar powered on and I saw lights, on the unit, not in my befuddled brain! 😉All test were correct with the exception of the field wire.
I also heard some clicking from the instrument cluster and they seemed to be bouncing a bit so I think we’re still not correct…. Calling Balmar.-P
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 19, 2011, at 9:43 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
Quote:For the sake of clarity here’s the solenoid I’m talking about:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6163298280/I retraced my black wires on that solenoid the one on post #2 (from the right) goes to the glowplug strap.
The one on the fourth post goes to the alternator ground.So that is the pre-heatglow plug solenoid.
Still doesn’t answer why my ground isn’t working… I’m going with my plan to take the ground on the regulator to the engine block directly.
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 9:01 AM, Patrick wrote:
My last little tests seem to indicate that ground is being controlled by the four pole soleoid on the port engine bulkhead above the engine, but I’m not positive of that yet. I think I can just wire the regulator ground to a proper ground instead of the alternator ground since bypassing that wire for ground gave me the proper test readings.That will be today’s attempt.
Sent from my iPad
On 19, 2011, at 6:03AM, wrote:
Quote:I would guess that your alternator wiring goes through a pressure switch on your engine. That way when you crank your engine the alternator provides no load to the starter. With a smart regulator, you don’t need this pressure switch since the regulator will phase the alternator up in stages. Bypass the fuel pressure switch.Rich
Original Message
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
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