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Lady Leanne’s haul out is rapidly approaching, and my mind is reviewing all of the out-of-water projects possible. One that “floats” to the top of the list is the addition of another (high capacity) bilge pump or two mounted higher in the sump. Recommendations from articles I have read indicate that a 40′ boat should have a 4,000 GPH capacity, which doesn’t include the “day to day” pump in the bottom of the sump and the manual (which should be considered as a reserve powered by a motivated skipper).
Has anyone installed another pump or two higher in the bilge? Where did you mount the through hulls? Did you use seacocks? Would marelon be appropriate (certainly cheaper)?
I’ve also read that the system should be redundant, with no shared lines or hull fittings. Comments?
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu/Atlanta -
I have three bilge pumps.
1. The primary is wired with a Rule three-way
switch<http://www.ittflowcontrol.com/marine-and-rv/bilge/rule-switches/45-3-way-panel-switch.htm>at
the panel and is supplied and fused after the battery selector switch
(i.e. Battery OFF = No Bilge Pumps). When in auto it is operated by
a Rule-a-matic
Plus float switch<http://www.ittflowcontrol.com/marine-and-rv/bilge/rule-switches/rule-a-matic-plus-float-switch.htm>.
The hose from the bilge to the exit has an inline check valve to limit the
amount of water that runs back in when the pump stops pumping (I can keep it
down to about 1/4″ deep). It is sitting directly on it’s own strainer in the
aft most section of the bilge. It needs to be secured to the hull still.
2. The second higher capacity pump is wired to the breaker panel. It is
mounted to a 1″ tall riser and 99.9% it is sitting high and dry in the
forward part of the bilge. This needs to be secured to the hull still.
3. The Third is the manual bilge pump operated from the cockpit with a
handle. It has a Perko bilge
strainer<http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/underwater_hardware/product/287/>on
the inboard end. It also needs to be secured still.All of the bilge pumps exit the hull above the waterline, at the stern.
Ideally the thru-hulls would have closing flaps on them to prevent a
following sea from entering the bilge hoses. It’s on the list. 😉Good reference material:
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/14.htm
<http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/14.htm>
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/06.htm
<http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/06.htm>”High-capacity Electric Bilge
Pumps” Practical Sailor Sept 2010Hope that helps
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 7:45 AM, kalinowski <>wrote:
Lady Leanne’s haul out is rapidly approaching, and my mind is reviewing all
of the out-of-water projects possible. One that “floats” to the top of the
list is the addition of another (high capacity) bilge pump or two mounted
higher in the sump. Recommendations from articles I have read indicate that
a 40′ boat should have a 4,000 GPH capacity, which doesn’t include the “day
to day” pump in the bottom of the sump and the manual (which should be
considered as a reserve powered by a motivated skipper).Has anyone installed another pump or two higher in the bilge? Where did
you mount the through hulls? Did you use seacocks? Would marelon be
appropriate (certainly cheaper)?I’ve also read that the system should be redundant, with no shared lines or
hull fittings. Comments?Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu/Atlanta_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Best place for the thruhulls is the tansom. Longer hoses but never under water. No siphon risk
Pete
On Nov 18, 2010, at 8:45 AM, “kalinowski” <> wrote:
Lady Leanne’s haul out is rapidly approaching, and my mind is reviewing all of the out-of-water projects possible. One that “floats” to the top of the list is the addition of another (high capacity) bilge pump or two mounted higher in the sump. Recommendations from articles I have read indicate that a 40′ boat should have a 4,000 GPH capacity, which doesn’t include the “day to day” pump in the bottom of the sump and the manual (which should be considered as a reserve powered by a motivated skipper).
Has anyone installed another pump or two higher in the bilge? Where did you mount the through hulls? Did you use seacocks? Would marelon be appropriate (certainly cheaper)?
I’ve also read that the system should be redundant, with no shared lines or hull fittings. Comments?
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu/Atlanta_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Dan, Patrick’s set up is about as good as it gets. He only puts a check valve on his ‘drying’ pump and it has a float switch. On the secondary (no check valve) high capacity bilge pump I’d include a float switch and also have it wired to a 24 hour bus. Something like a fridge for AC discharge hose will outpace a 500 gph pump that is fighting 6 feet of head pressure. If you are not around you won’t get to flip it on. A second manual pump would be a good plan if you expect to be offshore.
The secondary should be dry, a few inches above the drying pump is ample. A high water alarm should be tied into this pump. The float switch noted below has a secondary circuit that will recognize if the pump isn’t keeping up and will sound your alarm.
Rule makes a great pump but the float switches are crap. We are constantly replacing them. This product is the cats ass; http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_infor.
Make sure you wire your pumps with the proper size wire, the distance run is measured round trip, the path of the current… not just one way. The available current can limit the performance of a pump. Why they put those tiny pig tails on the bigger pumps is beyond me. Still the wiring leading to the pump should be of proper size. Ironically per ABYC bilge pumps are not safety equipment and the wire can be sized for up to 10% voltage drop but no reason to cut corners.
Lastly put over current protection in the circuit between your panel and the pump. Locked rotor on a centrifugal pump can start a fire, even though it is protected at the panel. I got a demo of this in a class and was amazed at the results.
The demise of any quality pump installation is garbage in the bilge. Keep it clean.
Chuck
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