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A discussion akin to anchors….
My wallet quivers with the thought of doing the bottom this year.
I am in fresh water now (in the water in May1st), but plan on being in salt water by the end of the year.
I need some suggestion as what paint to put on and expected results based on location.
Most likely the plan is cruise the Carib. I am thinking cold or warm salt water has differing results on performance?
alanPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Alan,
My recommendation.
1. Before or shortly after you depart freshwater paint the bottom with the cheapest paint available.
2. When you get to your next cruising grounds paint it with what the yards use in that area.John
On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 8:44 AM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
A discussion akin to anchors….
My wallet quivers with the thought of doing the bottom this year.
I am in fresh water now (in the water in May1st), but plan on being in salt water by the end of the year.
I need some suggestion as what paint to put on and expected results based on location.
Most likely the plan is cruise the Carib. I am thinking cold or warm salt water has differing results on performance?
alan—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Alan:
I have had excellent results in salt water with the ablative paints, specifically Interlux Micron Extra. I start with a black coat and then added 2 coats of red. Whenever I see a black area showing I know it’s time to add more red to that area only!! I store in the water for 2 years , then one year out on land. Also, when overcoating the telltale (in my case black) color, there is no sanding necessary. just roll on the new paint. Also, no need to repaint at all if no telltale color is showing through.
This method works for me– been using it for over 10 years with great results. I used to have to sand and repaint every haulout– no more!!
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker- #214Quote:
Original Message
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Alan:
Practical Sailors October 08 Bottom Paint report had the following:
Micron 66 is always the top performer for an ablative paint. Of course, it
is the most expensive but it is multi-year, so you won’t need to reapply
while you are out. Epoxcop Ablative and MarPro Super B ablative were the
budget buy choices (less than half the cost of Micron 66)Of the hard paints, Trinidad SR was the best rated (again, more expensive).
The Budget Buys were Epoxycop and Unepoxy Standard.I will bring a copy of the October issue and you can read it when we met on
Walter’s boat in Nassau in April 🙂Paul
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After reading Rodd’s comments about Micron Extra, I took a look at the PS
report again. It is interesting how some paints work well in some areas and
not so well in others. While Micron Extra was given only a fair rating in
Florida, it was given a Good rating in Long Island Sound, where Rodd is.Paul
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I -heart- my trinidad sr after feb to November from Titusville to the
Vinyard.-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)On Feb 27, 2009, at 9:48 AM, “Paul Lefebvre”
<> wrote:Alan:
Practical Sailors October 08 Bottom Paint report had the following:
Micron 66 is always the top performer for an ablative paint. Of
course, it is the most expensive but it is multi-year, so you won’t
need to reapply while you are out. Epoxcop Ablative and MarPro Super
B ablative were the budget buy choices (less than half the cost of
Micron 66)Of the hard paints, Trinidad SR was the best rated (again, more
expensive). The Budget Buys were Epoxycop and Unepoxy Standard.I will bring a copy of the October issue and you can read it when we
met on Walter’s boat in Nassau in April 🙂Paul
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Something I learned many years ago from the owner of a big boat yard in Fort Lauderdale: More often than not it is unnecessary to sand the bottom clear of the old paint prior to antifouling. In fact, it’s usually counterproductive, since the old paint likely retains some useful antifouling properties. Instead, just wet-sand the surface of the paint that’s on there with a coarse 3M pad (I use the ones with a handle from Home Depot) and a garden hose in hand. That way there’s no toxic dust to inhale. Don’t put a hard-finish paint over prior soft, ablative coats, since the hard stuff probably won’t stick. You can, however, do it the other way around, i.e., new soft paint over old hard.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thats were I am at. I want to put something on now, while the boats in the parking lot that will be good for the warmer waters. I really don’t want to haul again before I leave in September. But I need to be sure that the fresh water won’t hurt the bottom paint while it’s still in Lake Ontario.
From what I am reading, Trinidad SR seems to be the leading favorite.
Now, when I brought the boat up here from Tampa, it had a good coat of something (hard) and I have not touched the bottom in the 6 years Ive owned it. No barnacles up here. Very little slim when I haul in the fall. SO, I guess I am ahead of the game so far.
I am thinking, rough it up with a 3M pad and roll it on…..
alan— On Fri, 2/27/09, Paul Lefebvre <> wrote:
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Hi Alan,
I use the same procedure as Rod. I, like you am in fresh water. When I got Xanadu three years ago I had the old paint stripped off, repaired some blistering, epoxied the bottom and put two of Micron CSC. That was the best offered in Canada at the time. It held up well and last year I had the boat hauled and put another coat on to touch up where some ice had scraped along the waterline.
I don't know if you can put an ablative paint over an existing hard finish. Check with the manufacturer. You'd hate to see all that work you're going to do ruined.
Jack
Xanadu IVOn Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 10:50 AM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thats were I am at. I want to put something on now, while the boats in the parking lot that will be good for the warmer waters. I really don't want to haul again before I leave in September. But I need to be sure that the fresh water won't hurt the bottom paint while it's still in Lake Ontario.
From what I am reading, Trinidad SR seems to be the leading favorite.
Now, when I brought the boat up here from Tampa, it had a good coat of something (hard) and I have not touched the bottom in the 6 years Ive owned it. No barnacles up here. Very little slim when I haul in the fall. SO, I guess I am ahead of the game so far.
I am thinking, rough it up with a 3M pad and roll it on…..
alan— On Fri, 2/27/09, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
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In a message dated 2/27/2009 11:49:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, writes:
I don’t know if you can put an ablative paint over an existing hard finish.
Yes you can, but not the other way around.
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMA, George Town, Exuma, Bahamas
Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today.Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Alan,
How do you plan to go to the Caribbean? How much sitting do you plan on heading down – the more I use the boat the cleaner it stays. My best expereience is with a straight shots from the mouth of the Chespeake with the 1500 rally. A lot of the boats do not paint before they leave (depending on what they did the year before) They wait until a few days before departuring and have the bottom cleaned by a diver (the rally has an arrangement with a great dive team who spend the week at the marina getting boats ready) so the passage can be made as quickly as possible. Once in the islands, we hauled at a yard on Virginia Gorda and put on the paint they recommended – many times they have paint no longer permitted in the US that is best for the really warm waters. Even with the best paint I made a monthly dive on my boat to clean the prop, shaft and thru hauls, etc. Things really grow fast down there!
Cada Grove
JubileeFeb 27, 2009 01:44:23 PM, () wrote:
A discussion akin to anchors….
My wallet quivers with the thought of doing the bottom this year.
I am in fresh water now (in the water in May1st), but plan on being in salt water by the end of the year.
I need some suggestion as what paint to put on and expected results based on location.
Most likely the plan is cruise the Carib. I am thinking cold or warm salt water has differing results on performance?
alanPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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I read an article a few years back that stated that the most challenging waters for bottom paints are northern latitudes during mid-summer (I assume that southern hemesphere would be similar). The reason is twofold; longer summer days provide more time for growth and colder waters provide more dissolved gasses like co2. That’s one reason the water here in the Northeast is murky in the summer. I’ve had reasonable success with Pettit ACP-50; also sold under the West Marine label.
I plan to take my hull down to bare glass as soon as the market stablizes and I feel comfortable burning another couple of boat units. In fact, I had an appointment to have the boat soda-blasted last fall, but I cancelled it and started hunkering down for the tsunami. Once cleaned, I plan to put on a layer of epoxy as a barrier coat. Then I’ll put on one coat of inexpensive ablative paint followed by two coats of ACP-50. The first coat will be a different color. I’m sure there are other paints out there that are as good or perhaps better. I had bad luck with micron-22 many years ago so I’m still avoiding their bottom paints, but I hear their newer paints are better.
Regards
Rich
Original Message
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I’ve been happy with my Trinidad SR paint…3 years here in the caribbean and no problems..easy to scrap and very good if you are at anchor for ant length of time. The ablatives don’t work well unless you are underway, then they don’t last as long as the hard paints…IMHO.
Joe,
Half Moon— On Fri, 2/27/09, <> wrote:
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Ok, here's a paint I've used up in the north and is recommended for the southern waters – it goes on like water, has terrific coverage and uses far less than any of the 'commercial' bottom paints.
http://www.supershipbottom.com/
The only downside is that it requires breathing apparatus to put on – the solvents are extremely toxic. I've used it with great success up here.
It will bond to any bottom paint including vinyl paints. It dries very quickly, so two or three coats are possible in a day. It lasts through a year's scrubbing (every three weeks), and at the end of the year it's gone so you don't have to worry about putting on 1/8″ paint every year.
Highly recommended.
Bob
On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 5:19 PM, Joseph Steiner < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I've been happy with my Trinidad SR paint…3 years here in the caribbean and no problems..easy to scrap and very good if you are at anchor for ant length of time. The ablatives don't work well unless you are underway, then they don't last as long as the hard paints…IMHO.
Joe,
Half Moon— On Fri, 2/27/09, () < ([email][/email])> wrote:
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