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Once again I am in search of knowledge, if not wisdom. What seems to be the most effective antifouling system
on the bronze shaft, strut & prop? Anyone?If copper-based paints are so destructive on bronze underwater, why do painted seacock flanges survive as well
as they do?I’m thinking of painting Silver Heels’ underwater bronze with West System epoxy as a barrier, then using
ordinary copper-based antifouling over that. Good idea? Bad idea? In the vernacular of the New York Yacht
Club, wassup?Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
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Hi Tor,
Copper based paint and bronze are no problem at all. Copper and aluminum is, however, extremely corrosive. Bronze, after all, is an alloy of copper, tin, and other metals for different uses. But primarily, copper and tin. So, paint away with no worries. (Brass is copper and zinc, a very different and very useless underwater alloy).
For the strut, I paint with bottom paint. If the shaft is bronze (mine's stainless or monel) you could paint it everywhere except where the zincs will go. That must be clean.
For the prop, you could paint it but the paint will wear off in no time unless you use a hard, non-ablative paint. Here's what I do:
1. Clean and smooth the prop – not polish, but pretty smooth
2. Using something like lithium grease or STP (yup, the oil that fixes everything in engines), wipe on liberally. Give it all a good coat. Rub it in.
3. You're done. For some reason sea life doesn't like either of these greases. I think molybdenum sulfide grease will work, too. But the oil/grease gets in the pores of the metal and really hangs in there. I may try teflon grease for speed, though, and it can be applied later in the season in the water.You could also use the zinc propeller and shaft paint in the spray can to coat these things as well. It does work but doesn't last the season.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:21 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Once again I am in search of knowledge, if not wisdom. What seems to be the most effective antifouling system
on the bronze shaft, strut & prop? Anyone?If copper-based paints are so destructive on bronze underwater, why do painted seacock flanges survive as well
as they do?I'm thinking of painting Silver Heels' underwater bronze with West System epoxy as a barrier, then using
ordinary copper-based antifouling over that. Good idea? Bad idea? In the vernacular of the New York Yacht
Club, wassup?Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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I haven't painted a prop since they took the tin-based paints off the market. For a while you good get Tri-Lux in small cans, then it became Tri-Lux II and was worthless.
Since then I just clean the prop to a bright finish and then dive on it every few months with a scraper.On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:31 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Tor,
Copper based paint and bronze are no problem at all. Copper and aluminum is, however, extremely corrosive. Bronze, after all, is an alloy of copper, tin, and other metals for different uses. But primarily, copper and tin. So, paint away with no worries. (Brass is copper and zinc, a very different and very useless underwater alloy).
For the strut, I paint with bottom paint. If the shaft is bronze (mine's stainless or monel) you could paint it everywhere except where the zincs will go. That must be clean.
For the prop, you could paint it but the paint will wear off in no time unless you use a hard, non-ablative paint. Here's what I do:
1. Clean and smooth the prop – not polish, but pretty smooth
2. Using something like lithium grease or STP (yup, the oil that fixes everything in engines), wipe on liberally. Give it all a good coat. Rub it in.
3. You're done. For some reason sea life doesn't like either of these greases. I think molybdenum sulfide grease will work, too. But the oil/grease gets in the pores of the metal and really hangs in there. I may try teflon grease for speed, though, and it can be applied later in the season in the water.You could also use the zinc propeller and shaft paint in the spray can to coat these things as well. It does work but doesn't last the season.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:21 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Once again I am in search of knowledge, if not wisdom. What seems to be the most effective antifouling system
on the bronze shaft, strut & prop? Anyone?If copper-based paints are so destructive on bronze underwater, why do painted seacock flanges survive as well
as they do?I'm thinking of painting Silver Heels' underwater bronze with West System epoxy as a barrier, then using
ordinary copper-based antifouling over that. Good idea? Bad idea? In the vernacular of the New York Yacht
Club, wassup?Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Of course that works, too. I just purchased a wetsuit for cleaning mine in 40-65 degree water…
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:50 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I haven't painted a prop since they took the tin-based paints off the market. For a while you good get Tri-Lux in small cans, then it became Tri-Lux II and was worthless.
Since then I just clean the prop to a bright finish and then dive on it every few months with a scraper.On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:31 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Tor,
Copper based paint and bronze are no problem at all. Copper and aluminum is, however, extremely corrosive. Bronze, after all, is an alloy of copper, tin, and other metals for different uses. But primarily, copper and tin. So, paint away with no worries. (Brass is copper and zinc, a very different and very useless underwater alloy).
For the strut, I paint with bottom paint. If the shaft is bronze (mine's stainless or monel) you could paint it everywhere except where the zincs will go. That must be clean.
For the prop, you could paint it but the paint will wear off in no time unless you use a hard, non-ablative paint. Here's what I do:
1. Clean and smooth the prop – not polish, but pretty smooth
2. Using something like lithium grease or STP (yup, the oil that fixes everything in engines), wipe on liberally. Give it all a good coat. Rub it in.
3. You're done. For some reason sea life doesn't like either of these greases. I think molybdenum sulfide grease will work, too. But the oil/grease gets in the pores of the metal and really hangs in there. I may try teflon grease for speed, though, and it can be applied later in the season in the water.You could also use the zinc propeller and shaft paint in the spray can to coat these things as well. It does work but doesn't last the season.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:21 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Once again I am in search of knowledge, if not wisdom. What seems to be the most effective antifouling system
on the bronze shaft, strut & prop? Anyone?If copper-based paints are so destructive on bronze underwater, why do painted seacock flanges survive as well
as they do?I'm thinking of painting Silver Heels' underwater bronze with West System epoxy as a barrier, then using
ordinary copper-based antifouling over that. Good idea? Bad idea? In the vernacular of the New York Yacht
Club, wassup?Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
Fortunately for me it only involves moving the boat to a small cove and diving in crystal clear 80 degree water. Then drag to dinghy onto the beach and clean the green scum off its bottom.
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:52 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Of course that works, too. I just purchased a wetsuit for cleaning mine in 40-65 degree water…
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:50 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I haven't painted a prop since they took the tin-based paints off the market. For a while you good get Tri-Lux in small cans, then it became Tri-Lux II and was worthless.
Since then I just clean the prop to a bright finish and then dive on it every few months with a scraper.On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:31 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Tor,
Copper based paint and bronze are no problem at all. Copper and aluminum is, however, extremely corrosive. Bronze, after all, is an alloy of copper, tin, and other metals for different uses. But primarily, copper and tin. So, paint away with no worries. (Brass is copper and zinc, a very different and very useless underwater alloy).
For the strut, I paint with bottom paint. If the shaft is bronze (mine's stainless or monel) you could paint it everywhere except where the zincs will go. That must be clean.
For the prop, you could paint it but the paint will wear off in no time unless you use a hard, non-ablative paint. Here's what I do:
1. Clean and smooth the prop – not polish, but pretty smooth
2. Using something like lithium grease or STP (yup, the oil that fixes everything in engines), wipe on liberally. Give it all a good coat. Rub it in.
3. You're done. For some reason sea life doesn't like either of these greases. I think molybdenum sulfide grease will work, too. But the oil/grease gets in the pores of the metal and really hangs in there. I may try teflon grease for speed, though, and it can be applied later in the season in the water.You could also use the zinc propeller and shaft paint in the spray can to coat these things as well. It does work but doesn't last the season.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:21 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Once again I am in search of knowledge, if not wisdom. What seems to be the most effective antifouling system
on the bronze shaft, strut & prop? Anyone?If copper-based paints are so destructive on bronze underwater, why do painted seacock flanges survive as well
as they do?I'm thinking of painting Silver Heels' underwater bronze with West System epoxy as a barrier, then using
ordinary copper-based antifouling over that. Good idea? Bad idea? In the vernacular of the New York Yacht
Club, wassup?Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
I thought copper would set up an electrolytic current with bronze. Glad to hear I was mistaken. (And that explains why painted seacock flanges survive as well as they do with bottom paint on them.) In the past I’ve generally done as John does, i.e., leave the drive train plain and dive on it once in a while.
Bob, I am amazed that those products you listed will stick to a prop for long. I think I’ll try your system: bottom paint on the strut & shaft, and lithium grease on the prop. Thanks!
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Tor
Here is a link to prop speed http://www.propspeedusa.com/index.htm the cost is about $350 per prop/shaft. It seems to work in Puget Sound (but I have only seen it a few times) If feels like slick rubber and produces a surface that does not allow marine growth to permanently attachit.
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Thanks, Don. Will wonders never cease!
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
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Hi Tor,
I don't know why they stick either except to say that the lubricants are designed to 'bond' with metal so they can perform their lubrication duties. Or, it could be magic.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 10:09 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I thought copper would set up an electrolytic current with bronze. Glad to hear I was mistaken. (And that explains why painted seacock flanges survive as well as they do with bottom paint on them.) In the past I've generally done as John does, i.e., leave the drive train plain and dive on it once in a while.
Bob, I am amazed that those products you listed will stick to a prop for long. I think I'll try your system: bottom paint on the strut & shaft, and lithium grease on the prop. Thanks!
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Rich,
Why don’t you just use copper bottom paint?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Bob,
Magic, definitely. How long does lithium grease remain effective on the prop?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
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Couple of months, anyway, depending on use…
On 4/8/09, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Bob,Magic, definitely. How long does lithium grease remain effective on the
prop?Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
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And then you re-apply it underwater?
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
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Oddly, I've never reapplied it as I generally dive the prop every couple of weeks since I'm in the water anyway to clean the waterline…
Bob
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 5:05 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:And then you re-apply it underwater?
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
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I like the finish the spray-on paint provides better. It seems to work OK. I still get a few barnicles on the shaft but they don’t stick well. My shaft and prop are both stainless. I polish them with a rotary scotch-brite pad on a drill and then spray on a clean coat each spring.
Rich
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Understood. I’m looking for longevity, hoping to go as long as possible between haul-outs. Bob’s grease trick may provide that by allowing repeated applications underwater. Or perhaps it’s possible to do both, starting out with a spray-on paint and then applying lithium or one of the other lubricants when the paint starts losing its effectiveness. My prop is being re-pitched today and will come back professionally polished, a good time to spray it.
Thanks for the feedback.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
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Perfect! The best time to apply said treatments!
2009/4/9 Silver Heels < ([email][/email])>
Quote:Understood. I'm looking for longevity, hoping to go as long as possible between haul-outs. Bob's grease trick may provide that by allowing repeated applications underwater. Or perhaps it's possible to do both, starting out with a spray-on paint and then applying lithium or one of the other lubricants when the paint starts losing its effectiveness. My prop is being re-pitched today and will come back professionally polished, a good time to spray it.
Thanks for the feedback.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
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