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Posts
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Attached is a picture of my battery wiring.
We have six Interstate U2200 Batteries.I originally thought I had two equally sized banks. But teh batteries are 6
V so that doesn’t make sense because you need pairs of batteries to make 12V
and three doesn’t work for that. But, if we do have two banks, then I don’t
get why all the batteries are connected together. None are isolated from the
others.
If they really are just one bank and the battery selector switch isn’t doing
anything then why do I get different V readings on the DC Panel?Utterly confused…. I need an electrical guru. 🙂
Not sure if I mentioned this but Dawn and I have left Seattle finally. We’re
in Port Angeles now, moving to Neah Bay on the next agreeable weather and
then to San Francisco after that.Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya_______________________________________________
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Congratulations on your move! The bigger question is are you sure your
diagram is correct? It looks like the intention is to have two banks, one
of 4 batteries and one of 2 batteries. I can’t tell where connections are on
the diagram where the wires cross or if there are no connections. To be a
two bank system, see the attached picture.Anyone else: Please check the math.
Bob
2011/8/20 Patrick “Peaboy” Walters
Attached is a picture of my battery wiring.
We have six Interstate U2200 Batteries.I originally thought I had two equally sized banks. But teh batteries are 6
V so that doesn’t make sense because you need pairs of batteries to make
12V
and three doesn’t work for that. But, if we do have two banks, then I don’t
get why all the batteries are connected together. None are isolated from
the
others.
If they really are just one bank and the battery selector switch isn’t
doing
anything then why do I get different V readings on the DC Panel?Utterly confused…. I need an electrical guru. 🙂
Not sure if I mentioned this but Dawn and I have left Seattle finally.
We’re
in Port Angeles now, moving to Neah Bay on the next agreeable weather and
then to San Francisco after that.Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com_______________________________________________
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Hi Patrick,
Looks like you have two banks, both of course 12V. The batteries are wired in pairs in series to get the 12V but one series pair is paralleled together giving you have 4 batteries in one bank and 2 in the other.
If you look closely at the diagram all the grounds are wired together which is correct. Then one positive goes to one pole on the battery switch. Then two positives are wired together and then to the other pole on th battery switch.
-
-
It’s clear the intention is to have two banks, one of 4 batteries, one of
two. I’ve provided a picture that shows how they *should* be wired to have
that. The original diagram that Patrick sent has all the positives together
with one bank to one part of the switch and the other to the other. The
only common wire to all the banks should be the ground wire (negative).Please review drawing in second message in this thread and compare it to the
first.Regards,
Bob
On Mon, Aug 22, 2011 at 9:02 AM, wrote:
Quote:Looks like you have two pair connected to the lower switch position and one
pair connected to the upper switch position.Rich
Original Message
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Hi Bob,
I may be missing something but Patrick’s original wiring diagram looks like it is already in two separate banks, 4 batteries in one, 2 batteries in the other.
If you number the batteries in Patrick’s diagram 1-6 starting at the top left corner and going clockwise, it looks to me that 1-2 are one bank wired to the battery selector switch. 3-4 and 5-6 are wired as the second bank to the other pole on the selector switch. I cannot see a link from the positive terminal of bank 1-2 to a positive terminal on the other bank of 3-4 & 5-6 unless you mean the line across the poles inside the battery switch which I don’t think was the intent of the drawing?
Regards
Skip -
Hi Skip,
There is a line at the bottom that seems to connect positives of the two
banks – it’s the line I remove from the drawing I sent. But it could be
there was no connection. It’s hard to say without knowledge from Pat. My
drawing makes it clear there’s two banks.Bob
On Mon, Aug 22, 2011 at 10:14 AM, skipmac wrote:
Hi Bob,
I may be missing something but Patrick’s original wiring diagram looks like
it is already in two separate banks, 4 batteries in one, 2 batteries in the
other.If you number the batteries in Patrick’s diagram 1-6 starting at the top
left corner and going clockwise, it looks to me that 1-2 are one bank wired
to the battery selector switch. 3-4 and 5-6 are wired as the second bank to
the other pole on the selector switch. I cannot see a link from the
positive terminal of bank 1-2 to a positive terminal on the other bank of
3-4 & 5-6 unless you mean the line across the poles inside the battery
switch which I don’t think was the intent of the drawing?Regards
Skip_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi Bob,
I looked at that part of the drawing and had to think. Since it also shows lines crossing each other that go from ground directly to the positive terminals of two batteies (and Patrick’s boat has not caught on fire or exploded as far as we know 😯 ) I assumed that the crossing lines did not indicated connections.
Skip[/img]
-
1- How much lower in voltage is one bank reading than the other? if it
is just a tiny bit, forget about it. If it is on on the order of a volt
or more, you likely have one defective cell (see #3).2- Is there any load on the batteries when you are checking this voltage
?(if so, the 4-battery set will naturally show less draw down of the
voltage than the 2-battery bank.3- next… Check the voltage across each of the batteries separately.
Are they equal? Perhaps you have one defective battery.Pete
On 8/22/2011 8:14 AM, skipmac wrote:
Hi Bob,
I may be missing something but Patrick’s original wiring diagram looks like it is already in two separate banks, 4 batteries in one, 2 batteries in the other.
If you number the batteries in Patrick’s diagram 1-6 starting at the top left corner and going clockwise, it looks to me that 1-2 are one bank wired to the battery selector switch. 3-4 and 5-6 are wired as the second bank to the other pole on the selector switch. I cannot see a link from the positive terminal of bank 1-2 to a positive terminal on the other bank of 3-4& 5-6 unless you mean the line across the poles inside the battery switch which I don’t think was the intent of the drawing?
Regards
Skip_______________________________________________
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Sorry its taken me so long to reply. I’m in Neah Bay and we didn’t have
internet for a few days.I looked it over and now what Skip said makes sense… Connecting the
grounds right there in the battery tray is what confused me.We had abused them though… was low on water. Filled. Charged. Equalized
and checked the water again. We’re good for now. Most likely we’ll replace
the batteries, upsize the House bank in San Francisco and put in a dedicated
seperate starting battery.We have been stowing and organizing things better as we’ve been moving
along… there is a TON of room in this boat. We have a few practically
empty lockers. Today I took the hanging rod our of the salon locker and was
able to fit our cooler in there!! We only have a small number of hanging
things and they all fit in the v-berth so a huge gain there.Thanks as always for the help everyone!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 9:53 PM, skipmac wrote:
Hi Patrick,
Looks like you have two banks, both of course 12V. The batteries are
wired in pairs in series to get the 12V but one series pair is paralleled
together giving you have 4 batteries in one bank and 2 in the other.If you look closely at the diagram all the grounds are wired together which
is correct. Then one positive goes to one pole on the battery switch.
Then two positives are wired together and then to the other pole on th
battery switch._______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
OK… this is still confusing …. and I’m beginning to think that the PO
may have wrongly wired this thing still.
New picture (a photo this time)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6142543902/sizes/l/in/photostream/I believe the bottom left two batteries are supposed to be bank#2 and the
other 4 bank #1.
The AC Charger is wired to the Positive terminal of the top left battery and
the bottom left battery which would make sense.The Blue Sea BAttery Link ACR battery combiner is connected to the positive
terminal of the top left battery and the postive temrinal of the bottom
right battery which seems wrong. It looks to me like its wired to the
positive terminal of the second set of batteries in bank #1…My plan is to add a real starting battery and hook the combiner to it and
then wire all of these into one big house bank, but I don’t understand what
I have yet so I can’t decide what to change..Thanks a lot,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 9:52 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Sorry its taken me so long to reply. I’m in Neah Bay and we didn’t have
internet for a few days.I looked it over and now what Skip said makes sense… Connecting the
grounds right there in the battery tray is what confused me.We had abused them though… was low on water. Filled. Charged. Equalized
and checked the water again. We’re good for now. Most likely we’ll replace
the batteries, upsize the House bank in San Francisco and put in a dedicated
seperate starting battery.We have been stowing and organizing things better as we’ve been moving
along… there is a TON of room in this boat. We have a few practically
empty lockers. Today I took the hanging rod our of the salon locker and was
able to fit our cooler in there!! We only have a small number of hanging
things and they all fit in the v-berth so a huge gain there.Thanks as always for the help everyone!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 9:53 PM, skipmac wrote:
Hi Patrick,
Looks like you have two banks, both of course 12V. The batteries are
wired in pairs in series to get the 12V but one series pair is paralleled
together giving you have 4 batteries in one bank and 2 in the other.If you look closely at the diagram all the grounds are wired together
which is correct. Then one positive goes to one pole on the battery
switch. Then two positives are wired together and then to the other pole
on th battery switch._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
I think the top left two batteries are one bank and the other four (top
right, bottom three) are the second bank. Which bank is which you’ll have
to check where the positives run to the switch.Bob
On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 9:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:OK… this is still confusing …. and I’m beginning to think that the PO
may have wrongly wired this thing still.
New picture (a photo this time)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6142543902/sizes/l/in/photostream/I believe the bottom left two batteries are supposed to be bank#2 and the
other 4 bank #1.
The AC Charger is wired to the Positive terminal of the top left battery
and
the bottom left battery which would make sense.The Blue Sea BAttery Link ACR battery combiner is connected to the positive
terminal of the top left battery and the postive temrinal of the bottom
right battery which seems wrong. It looks to me like its wired to the
positive terminal of the second set of batteries in bank #1…My plan is to add a real starting battery and hook the combiner to it and
then wire all of these into one big house bank, but I don’t understand what
I have yet so I can’t decide what to change..Thanks a lot,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 9:52 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Sorry its taken me so long to reply. I’m in Neah Bay and we didn’t have
internet for a few days.I looked it over and now what Skip said makes sense… Connecting the
grounds right there in the battery tray is what confused me.We had abused them though… was low on water. Filled. Charged. Equalized
and checked the water again. We’re good for now. Most likely we’llreplace
the batteries, upsize the House bank in San Francisco and put in a
dedicated
seperate starting battery.
We have been stowing and organizing things better as we’ve been moving
along… there is a TON of room in this boat. We have a few practically
empty lockers. Today I took the hanging rod our of the salon locker andwas
able to fit our cooler in there!! We only have a small number of hanging
things and they all fit in the v-berth so a huge gain there.Thanks as always for the help everyone!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 9:53 PM, skipmac wrote:
Hi Patrick,
Looks like you have two banks, both of course 12V. The batteries are
wired in pairs in series to get the 12V but one series pair isparalleled
together giving you have 4 batteries in one bank and 2 in the other.
If you look closely at the diagram all the grounds are wired together
which is correct. Then one positive goes to one pole on the battery
switch. Then two positives are wired together and then to the otherpole
on th battery switch.
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
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-
Bob, that was too obvious once you said to do that. duh! So now that this
mystery is settled my wiring is clear to me again… I think I’m getting
sick of being in the yard. Engine mounts I thought were ordered friday were
ordered today and were going to take 2 days to make and then 3 days to ship
to I bit the bullet and had everything shipped overnight. must get out of
Oregon!!!! 🙂 I think my new fuel tank was finished today though and they
got the rusted pipe from the engine to the exhaust elbow off. I already had
both a new pipe and a new exhaust elbow on-hand so that will be a nice
maintenance item to check off. The old one was basically held on by the heat
wrap. http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6137969725/in/photostreamFor the sake of thinking out loud and hopefully of use to others I’ll
outline my plans to combine my two banks into one and then add a dedicated
1000CCA starting battery.To combine the banks into one bigger one, from the battery in the upper left
:– remove the positive (+) feed to the battery switch
– remove the positive (+) feed from the AC Charger
– remove the positive (+) feed from the combiner
– Wire the positive (+) on the first battery (top left) to the + on the
bottom right batteryThat should give me a single 660 Amp Hour battery bank wired to position one
on the battery switch instead of 440 in Bank #1 and 220 in Bank #2. This
will make Bank #2 on the switch irrelevant but OFF will still be used.
NOTE: My starter is current fed off a positive bus on the positive feed from
the battery switch.Adding a dedicated starting battery:
– Remove the connection from the starter to the House positive (+) Bus
– Wire the starting battery positive (+) to the starter
– Wire the positive (+) feed from the combiner to the positive (+) on the
starting battery
– Wire the negative (-) on the starting battery to the common ground by
wiring starting battery negative (-) to the negative (-) on the middle
battery in the bottom row.Whew… that took a while to think through. I am definitely tired now!
Thanks a lot!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 6:46 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I think the top left two batteries are one bank and the other four (top
right, bottom three) are the second bank. Which bank is which you’ll have
to check where the positives run to the switch.Bob
On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 9:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:OK… this is still confusing …. and I’m beginning to think that the PO
may have wrongly wired this thing still.
New picture (a photo this time)http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6142543902/sizes/l/in/photostream/
I believe the bottom left two batteries are supposed to be bank#2 and the
other 4 bank #1.
The AC Charger is wired to the Positive terminal of the top left battery
and
the bottom left battery which would make sense.The Blue Sea BAttery Link ACR battery combiner is connected to the
positive
terminal of the top left battery and the postive temrinal of the bottom
right battery which seems wrong. It looks to me like its wired to the
positive terminal of the second set of batteries in bank #1…My plan is to add a real starting battery and hook the combiner to it and
then wire all of these into one big house bank, but I don’t understandwhat
I have yet so I can’t decide what to change..
Thanks a lot,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 9:52 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Sorry its taken me so long to reply. I’m in Neah Bay and we didn’t have
internet for a few days.I looked it over and now what Skip said makes sense… Connecting the
grounds right there in the battery tray is what confused me.We had abused them though… was low on water. Filled. Charged.
Equalized
and checked the water again. We’re good for now. Most likely we’ll
replace
the batteries, upsize the House bank in San Francisco and put in a
dedicated
seperate starting battery.
We have been stowing and organizing things better as we’ve been moving
along… there is a TON of room in this boat. We have a few practically
empty lockers. Today I took the hanging rod our of the salon locker andwas
able to fit our cooler in there!! We only have a small number of
hanging
things and they all fit in the v-berth so a huge gain there.
Thanks as always for the help everyone!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |@DeepPlaya
On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 9:53 PM, skipmac
wrote:
Hi Patrick,
Looks like you have two banks, both of course 12V. The batteries are
wired in pairs in series to get the 12V but one series pair isparalleled
together giving you have 4 batteries in one bank and 2 in the other.
If you look closely at the diagram all the grounds are wired together
which is correct. Then one positive goes to one pole on the battery
switch. Then two positives are wired together and then to the otherpole
on th battery switch.
_______________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Hi Pat,
First, I thought of doing what you’re thinking of, namely removing the
dedicated start from the switch, but then I thought, say my house bank craps
out and I need to power the VHF or SSB long enough to get help. Or, just to
start the engine. I have a second bank of two group 31s. It’s enough to
start the engine, but normally I leave the switch on the house bank. Every
so often I’ll use the starter bank to start the engine just for ha-has.Consider that.
The exhaust elbow. You’ll love this: There is a plumbing fitting made of
black iron (like the pipe you’re showing) that is a reducing tee. The only
difference is that the raw water inlet is on the top rather than the side.
I’ve used it in other exhaust systems, and for $5.00 each, I’ll probably use
it in mine here when I need it.Good luck with all that work! Hope it ends soon!
Bob
On Tue, Sep 13, 2011 at 1:24 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Bob, that was too obvious once you said to do that. duh! So now that this
mystery is settled my wiring is clear to me again… I think I’m getting
sick of being in the yard. Engine mounts I thought were ordered friday were
ordered today and were going to take 2 days to make and then 3 days to ship
to I bit the bullet and had everything shipped overnight. must get out of
Oregon!!!! 🙂 I think my new fuel tank was finished today though and they
got the rusted pipe from the engine to the exhaust elbow off. I already had
both a new pipe and a new exhaust elbow on-hand so that will be a nice
maintenance item to check off. The old one was basically held on by the
heat
wrap. http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6137969725/in/photostreamFor the sake of thinking out loud and hopefully of use to others I’ll
outline my plans to combine my two banks into one and then add a dedicated
1000CCA starting battery.To combine the banks into one bigger one, from the battery in the upper
left
:– remove the positive (+) feed to the battery switch
– remove the positive (+) feed from the AC Charger
– remove the positive (+) feed from the combiner
– Wire the positive (+) on the first battery (top left) to the + on the
bottom right batteryThat should give me a single 660 Amp Hour battery bank wired to position
one
on the battery switch instead of 440 in Bank #1 and 220 in Bank #2. This
will make Bank #2 on the switch irrelevant but OFF will still be used.
NOTE: My starter is current fed off a positive bus on the positive feed
from
the battery switch.Adding a dedicated starting battery:
– Remove the connection from the starter to the House positive (+) Bus
– Wire the starting battery positive (+) to the starter
– Wire the positive (+) feed from the combiner to the positive (+) on the
starting battery
– Wire the negative (-) on the starting battery to the common ground by
wiring starting battery negative (-) to the negative (-) on the middle
battery in the bottom row.Whew… that took a while to think through. I am definitely tired now!
Thanks a lot!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 6:46 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I think the top left two batteries are one bank and the other four (top
right, bottom three) are the second bank. Which bank is which you’llhave
to check where the positives run to the switch.
Bob
On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 9:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:OK… this is still confusing …. and I’m beginning to think that the
PO
may have wrongly wired this thing still.
New picture (a photo this time)http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6142543902/sizes/l/in/photostream/
I believe the bottom left two batteries are supposed to be bank#2 and
the
other 4 bank #1.
The AC Charger is wired to the Positive terminal of the top leftbattery
and
the bottom left battery which would make sense.The Blue Sea BAttery Link ACR battery combiner is connected to the
positive
terminal of the top left battery and the postive temrinal of the bottom
right battery which seems wrong. It looks to me like its wired to the
positive terminal of the second set of batteries in bank #1…My plan is to add a real starting battery and hook the combiner to it
and
then wire all of these into one big house bank, but I don’t understand
what
I have yet so I can’t decide what to change..
Thanks a lot,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |@DeepPlaya
On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 9:52 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Sorry its taken me so long to reply. I’m in Neah Bay and we didn’t
have
internet for a few days.
I looked it over and now what Skip said makes sense… Connecting the
grounds right there in the battery tray is what confused me.We had abused them though… was low on water. Filled. Charged.
Equalized
and checked the water again. We’re good for now. Most likely we’ll
replace
the batteries, upsize the House bank in San Francisco and put in a
dedicated
seperate starting battery.
We have been stowing and organizing things better as we’ve been
moving
along… there is a TON of room in this boat. We have a few
practically
empty lockers. Today I took the hanging rod our of the salon locker
and
was
able to fit our cooler in there!! We only have a small number of
hanging
things and they all fit in the v-berth so a huge gain there.
Thanks as always for the help everyone!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |@DeepPlaya
On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 9:53 PM, skipmac
wrote:
Hi Patrick,
Looks like you have two banks, both of course 12V. The batteries
are
wired in pairs in series to get the 12V but one series pair is
paralleled
together giving you have 4 batteries in one bank and 2 in the other.
If you look closely at the diagram all the grounds are wired
together
which is correct. Then one positive goes to one pole on the
battery
switch. Then two positives are wired together and then to the
other
pole
on th battery switch.
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
With my old engine, I used a separate starter battery that was not directly tied to my 12v house system. I used a battery isolation solenoid, available for about $20 at most RV stores. When the engine was running, it connected the starter battery to the house supply so that it could get charged. When the engine was off it would automatically disconnect. This guaranteed that I could always start my engine even if the house bank was down.
To close the isolation solenoid switch, there are two recommended solutions.
1 – use a fuel-pressure switch or oil-pressure switch and wire it such that the solenoid closes when your engine is running.
2 – use a second 6V relay off your tachometer output. When the 6v relay closes, it applies power to the solenoid and causes that to close.I prefer the second solution since it doesn’t energize the switch until after the engine starts. The first solution might close the switch early.
A relay on the breaker panel can connect the starter battery to the house bank. This allows it to charge when plugged in and also lets you run a VHF or other stuff in an emergency. Make sure you open the breaker when not plugged in. This cold be automated also.
This makes it about $30 plus the cost of the battery to have an independent starter battery. I use a truck battery, not a deep cycle for my engine start battery.
My new engine has dual alternators. One alternator does nothing but charge the starter battery so I no longer need the solenoid.
Rich
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There is a third solution… Some regulator have a output just for such a paralleling solenoid The amplepower regulators have this
On Sep 13, 2011, at 9:46 AM, wrote:
Quote:With my old engine, I used a separate starter battery that was not directly tied to my 12v house system. I used a battery isolation solenoid, available for about $20 at most RV stores. When the engine was running, it connected the starter battery to the house supply so that it could get charged. When the engine was off it would automatically disconnect. This guaranteed that I could always start my engine even if the house bank was down.To close the isolation solenoid switch, there are two recommended solutions.
1 – use a fuel-pressure switch or oil-pressure switch and wire it such that the solenoid closes when your engine is running.
2 – use a second 6V relay off your tachometer output. When the 6v relay closes, it applies power to the solenoid and causes that to close.I prefer the second solution since it doesn’t energize the switch until after the engine starts. The first solution might close the switch early.
A relay on the breaker panel can connect the starter battery to the house bank. This allows it to charge when plugged in and also lets you run a VHF or other stuff in an emergency. Make sure you open the breaker when not plugged in. This cold be automated also.
This makes it about $30 plus the cost of the battery to have an independent starter battery. I use a truck battery, not a deep cycle for my engine start battery.
My new engine has dual alternators. One alternator does nothing but charge the starter battery so I no longer need the solenoid.
Rich
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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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“There is a third solution… Some regulator have a output just for such a paralleling solenoid The amplepower regulators have this”
Cool! I wonder why they all don’t have such an output? I assume its designed to handle an inductive load such as a relay coil, yes? This means that you don’t need the 6v relay that I use. The solenoid supplies power to my engine-driven refrigeration system. I use a smart regulator that doesn’t turn on until 90sec after the engine starts. The alternator and refrigeration compressor are 6hp each, so its nice to bring the engine up to speed before they kick-in.Rich
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The ample power regulator terminal for this becomes the ground side for the paralleling solenoid (for which I also have a mechanical switch in parallel )
As for the inductive load, I imagine they use an FET that has within it or around it a diode to handle the negative-going inductive pulse upon release of the solenoid
It is also important to use a confining duty solenoid. Unlike a starter solenoid which is designed for short on cycles, a continuous duty solenoid has no problem with being held on for long periods of time.
On Sep 13, 2011, at 2:04 PM, wrote:
Quote:“There is a third solution… Some regulator have a output just for such a paralleling solenoid The amplepower regulators have this”
Cool! I wonder why they all don’t have such an output? I assume its designed to handle an inductive load such as a relay coil, yes? This means that you don’t need the 6v relay that I use. The solenoid supplies power to my engine-driven refrigeration system. I use a smart regulator that doesn’t turn on until 90sec after the engine starts. The alternator and refrigeration compressor are 6hp each, so its nice to bring the engine up to speed before they kick-in.Rich
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