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Aloha to All
i am in the process of removing the cap and rub rail varnish and looking for suggections on products. Cetol, Bristol Finishes or regular old spar varnish… any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. at this point i have removed all the old varnish with a heat gun. Cetol was the last product used
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This could start another religious discussion. I’ve found nothing that really works. I’ve considered painting it all brown. Like most folks, I’ve been using Cetol for the past couple of decades. It holds up reasonably well and applies and more importantly removes fairly easily, but it builds up in layers over a few years and peals much like varnish. It also darkens with age. This leaves the surface with a mottled look. This means that you have to remove it every couple of years and start over. A quick treatment with a 2-part teak cleaner such as snappy-teak-new followed by a buff with fine sandpaper seems to take it off. The teak cleaner can attack the caulking however so a quick rinse is recommended.
I don’t have enough time nor energy to keep my brightwork pristine. Those few boaters that I know that take this seriously take their brightwork down to bare wood each year and put on a few coats of cetol. The exact recepe varies but is usually two or three coats of regular cetol followed by one optional coat of cetol gloss. It can take a cruising couple a week or so to properly finish the brightwork on a boat like the 424. If I find myself among the unemployed this summer, I might get it done. Otherwise its another year with a 20 foot finish ( looks good from 20 feet away).
I’ve heard others claim that varnish is the lowest maintenance finish; once you get it completed, you just touch it up each year. One of my friends who owns a Vagabond claims this. He’s been working on getting that first complete finish on his boat now for the past 15 years.
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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My choice of finish is Cetol Marine because it is more forgiving to minor damage than is varnish. I refinished all of the teak in the spring of 1995 and again in the spring of 2006, by which time the finish had become thick and a bit dark. It was also beginning to come loose in places. Maintenance in between consisted of touching up damaged areas as they appeared and adding a maintenance coat to everything each year. My boat is out of the water and covered for half the year.
Phil Fontaine
AuroraQuote:
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I use a 2 part system called honey teak.It is fairly transparent and shows the grain.Practical sailor has given it a long life rating high rating in the top 2-3 products on the market comparable to Bristol.I had my top redone using his system [white]and added non skid where needed.Lasted forever and continued to look like new..You can check out their website.The owner Tom Fabula will answer the phone and is very personable and helpful- lives around Stuart Florida.
He also sells 2 part color systems that are easy to apply with a roller and come out like a spray finish-excellent for cabin tops or hulls.His varnish system starts with 3 tinted coats,then 3 clear or more are applied.They can applied wet every 30 minutes so you can complete many coats the same day.I had a cheoy lee clipper with a lot of varnish and it was the only way I could have it look good and not work fulltime on it.It lasts a long time if you scuff it up and apply a clear coat or 2 every 6 months.Check it out.<.. snip>
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Joe Shimkonis
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Just for the sake of stirring up some of that good old religious fervor (which is another way of saying this
is sure to aggravate somebody, if not everybody):If you’re going for a yacht club finish, 10 coats of varnish, professionally applied, is hard to beat. For a
presentable working man’s finish Cetol is most practical, especially in the sub-tropics, and it looks pretty
good. If, however, you’re going cruising then there will ALWAYS be something better to do with your time than
fuss with making teak look pretty. In that case I recommend you clean the exterior teak very well, sand it
smooth, and then never again scrub it with anything more abrasive than a 3M pad with a solution of detergent
and bleach. This you should do every 6 months, each time followed by a thorough freshwater rinse. When the
wood’s dry, rub in several coats (until saturated) of good teak oil, like Amazon Gold or a homemade mix of
linseed, tung and (maybe) lemon oils with some clear anti-fungicidal wood preservative added in for good
measure.The teak will look like fine gold for a week or two – a good time to take photos of the old girl – and then
it’ll turn grey. For the next half-year it’ll look salty, not yacht club pretty, but it will be blissfully
healthy. Keep this up for as many years as you own the boat. Then, when it’s time to sell, clean and 3-coat
varnish the teak. It’ll come up like the day it was milled and the boat will be so pretty you may not want to
sell her after all.This is a true story. Only the names have been changed…
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (also known as CPES) is a great primer for Paint, Varnish or Cetol. It helps with are North West rain I was also told it works good of UV.
http://www.smithandcompany.org/varnishpriming.html
Don
S/V Syringa #124 -
MAS epoxies has a video on line showing using two coats of epoxy as a sealer and adding one or two coats of varnish as a uv inhibiter. They say scratch it with a scotch brite pad once a year and apply another coat of varnish and it looks great forever. I am trying this method on the step for the windlass. It’s only a few square inches and will be a simple test spot. Bob Bitchin swears by it. All those advertising dollars probably are a good incentive. Aaron could comment on the appearance of the Lost Soul they say that is what is used on all their bright work. Of course all the press he gets in Latts and Atts may sway his tongue but I doubt it. Nice pictures of the puppies and Splotch!
Linus
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To add yet another finish, we are currently using Semco Teak Sealer,
color natural. Every year we apply 2-4 coats. sometimes we wash the
wood with dish detergent in between. Application can be done with a
sock so it’s really fast. Wood looks plain – but doesn’t gray outhttp://picasaweb.google.com/dhjppn/SidedeckDorisE#5124505001827206114
http://picasaweb.google.com/dhjppn/Stanchions#5086302097808353746
is it perfect ? no but it’s easier than cetol or varnish
– pat
Doris E, p424 #178
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Bob sold lost soul a while back, and last I heard it was in Mexico. I’ve never seen her 🙁
Is splotch in the new issue again!? He’s getting to be a regular celebridog
On Mar 3, 2009, at 12:51 PM, “Linus Martinez” < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:MAS epoxies has a video on line showing using two coats of epoxy as a sealer and adding one or two coats of varnish as a uv inhibiter. They say scratch it with a scotch brite pad once a year and apply another coat of varnish and it looks great forever. I am trying this method on the step for the windlass. It’s only a few square inches and will be a simple test spot. Bob Bitchin swears by it. All those advertising dollars probably are a good incentive. Aaron could comment on the appearance of the Lost Soul they say that is what is used on all their bright work. Of course all the press he gets in Latts and Atts may sway his tongue but I doubt it. Nice pictures of the puppies and Splotch!Linus
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Ah yeah,
That’s the west marine corporate yacht, 🙂
Some districts get a Santa cruz 40, some get t-top fishing machines. As you can tell between l&a & wm We have a lot of pull;)
On Mar 3, 2009, at 3:28 PM, “Linus Martinez” < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I think it’s been two months back that the puppies and splotch on the dinghy was in the mag.Linus
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