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Hello everyone,
Does anyone know if Pearson made the chain plates for the 424 a standard
size? If they did make them standard, could you post the dimensions?I’m going to be replacing mine sometime this year and it would be good if I
could have them made to size as I do not have access to workshops etc.Jack Clarke
Xanadu
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Hi Jack,
All my chainplates, except the fore and back stays of course, are standard SS flat bar stock and all the same size and length.  If I recall 3/8″ X 1 1/2″ stock.  The length I’m not certain but think around 15-16″.  I can measure when I go by the boat this evening to confirm.
SkipÂ
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from the archives:
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=140&highlight=chain+plateSkip MacElhannon via maillist wrote on 4/6/15 8:48 AM:
Quote:Hi Jack,
All my chainplates, except the fore and back stays of course, are standard SS flat bar stock and all the same size and length. If I recall 3/8″ X 1 1/2″ stock. The length I’m not certain but think around 15-16″. I can measure when I go by the boat this evening to confirm.
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Replaced all my 6 main mast chain plates several years ago. If i remember correctly, they we all same size. I made the new ones from 316 SS and two forward ones required a slight twist to properly fit. I think I used 1/4 SS.
Steve
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As it happens I just pulled the shroud chainplates. I got an estimate from a rigger for six 316ss blanks cut to size for $150. Fully fabricated with electro polish for $600-$800. The rigger who I talked with said the holes for the clevis pins should be .002-.003 over, else the pins will seize. It’s important, he said to make sure the over sizing doesn’t leave a high point in the bore, less this create a load point on the pin. Discoverie is a cutter and the port side chainplate has a pronounced bend just above deck level. I’m told this had to be done deliberately prior to install as the shroud could not have applied a load sufficient to cause the bend.
Anyone else know how or why these get bent?
When I get home today I’ll send measurements.
Roger
Quote:On Apr 6, 2015, at 14:27, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D. via maillist wrote:Replaced all my 6 main mast chain plates several years ago. If i remember correctly, they we all same size. I made the new ones from 316 SS and two forward ones required a slight twist to properly fit. I think I used 1/4 SS.
Steve
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
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I am making my own as we speak. This is no great machining challenge.
Most folks are intimidated by drilling stainless. There is a trick to
this and it is like cutting butter once you know it. Forget the idea of
a series of progressively sized holes drilled with carbide bits. Just
not necessary. First turn the speed of the drill press or mill way,
way down to say 400-500 rpm. Start by marking the hole with a center
drill just enough to create a clear dimple for centering another drill.
Press hard when drilling. Now go right to the finished size bit (3/8″
for the bolts that hold the chain plates). Bear down hard, yes hard,
but with slow RPMs. Use a regular drill bit that is in good condition
(if it is now, regrind it), Ti coated is fine but carbide is not
needed. Pressing hard will will generate a single curl from each of the
two flutes of the bit. Do not let that curl break off until you are
through the metal. Remember… press hard. You will be through the
3/8″ plate in very little time, no muss, no fuss. Because the bit is
going slow it can’t develop enough heat to work harden the plate. You
can use a little cutting oil if you like.As for bending, that is what a hydraulic press is for. A “V” block
supports the bar stock and the ram can be fitted with a v-shaped tip
with a nicely radiused edge. Go carefully and compare with old piece as
you go.Have fun.
Pete
On 4/6/2015 5:57 PM, Roger Bigger via maillist wrote:
Quote:As it happens I just pulled the shroud chainplates. I got an estimate from a rigger for six 316ss blanks cut to size for $150. Fully fabricated with electro polish for $600-$800. The rigger who I talked with said the holes for the clevis pins should be .002-.003 over, else the pins will seize. It’s important, he said to make sure the over sizing doesn’t leave a high point in the bore, less this create a load point on the pin. Discoverie is a cutter and the port side chainplate has a pronounced bend just above deck level. I’m told this had to be done deliberately prior to install as the shroud could not have applied a load sufficient to cause the bend.Anyone else know how or why these get bent?
When I get home today I’ll send measurements.
Roger
Quote:On Apr 6, 2015, at 14:27, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D. via maillist wrote:Replaced all my 6 main mast chain plates several years ago. If i remember correctly, they we all same size. I made the new ones from 316 SS and two forward ones required a slight twist to properly fit. I think I used 1/4 SS.
Steve
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
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(there are eight chain plates for the main if you include the very
important and not to be neglected back stay chain plates) 3/8″ thick
for the main mast, 3/16″ thick for the mizzen (for which there are four
chain plates)Pete
On 4/6/2015 2:27 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D. via maillist wrote:
Quote:Replaced all my 6 main mast chain plates several years ago. If i remember correctly, they we all same size. I made the new ones from 316 SS and two forward ones required a slight twist to properly fit. I think I used 1/4 SS.Steve
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
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Pete, while you’re at it…I could use some too. 😉
Kidding. I won’t be replacing Revery’s for at least a year. But good info on drilling stainless. It also helps to have a press that won’t flex when pressing HARD (mine does).Evan
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Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Chain plates
When I worked for Kodak where everything was made of 316 stainless, they had a special cutting and tapping fluid especially developed for stainless. it would make it like cutting through butter, but have since banned its components in all 50 states.
But you do still need to keep your cutting tool cool.
AlanSent from my iPhone
Quote:On Apr 6, 2015, at 8:25 PM, Evan Morgan via maillist wrote:Pete, while you’re at it…I could use some too. 😉
Kidding. I won’t be replacing Revery’s for at least a year. But good info on drilling stainless. It also helps to have a press that won’t flex when pressing HARD (mine does).Evan
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I use a little motor oil when drilling stainless steel, which I keep in an old 3-in-1 Oil squeeze container. A couple of drops once in a while keeps the drill tip wet, cooler than it would be dry. According to my local machine shop guy, if you get the metal too hot while drilling, it’ll harden and then you’ll never be able to drill through it. He taught me about keeping the pressure on the drill bit, to keep it cutting. Once you get the hang of that, virtually any sharp bit will do the job.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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They call that “work hardening” and it can really ruin your day.
On 4/7/2015 7:34 AM, Silverheels via maillist wrote:
Quote:I use a little motor oil when drilling stainless steel, which I keep in an old 3-in-1 Oil squeeze container. A couple of drops once in a while keeps the drill tip wet, cooler than it would be dry. According to my local machine shop guy, if you get the metal too hot while drilling, it’ll harden and then you’ll never be able to drill through it. He taught me about keeping the pressure on the drill bit, to keep it cutting. Once you get the hang of that, virtually any sharp bit will do the job.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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This is what I use for cutting stainless, well worth the investment. Normal bits might work for a while, but these seem to stay sharp whereas the normal steel bits dull after a while. Don’t waste your money on the titanium nitride coated bits. I don’t think they work any better than the regular steel bits. You don’t always get good quality from these guys but in some cases such as these bits they sell a good product.
http://www.harborfreight.com/115-pc-cobalt-drill-bit-set-61886.html
In a drill-press adjusted to the proper speed, they will indeed cut spirals off the stock. I use cutting oil when drilling or tapping hard stuff like this.
Rich
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Nice bit set! Over the years I have accumulated quite a few drill
bits, more than enough. Every few years I turn them over to Chuck
at the local machine shop for sharpening, after which they’re
good as new again. He has shown me how to do it myself, but it’s
an acquired skill that I have not yet mastered.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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