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I successfully changed my RACOR filter. That was pretty easy and I didn’t make a huge mess thanks to a couple of stainless steel hot food service bins I used as a catch.
When I pull the primary fuel filter (the one on the engine) will a lot of fuel spill out (assuming the petcock before my RACOR is closed) and will I need to be prepared to bleed the fuel lines afterwards.
I just want to get a feel for what I’m starting before I start it.
Thanks,
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Hi Pat,
When I changed the one on the engine, I placed a big plastic cup under it and some of that absorbent stuff below that – if you're careful, you won't spill much – very little.
I'm wondering if anyone with a W58 has ever changed the filter in the lift pump. The electric pump has an integral filter. I know because I have replacement cartridges from Westerbeke just for that.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Is there one? Just got e8012s Mexican bomba de fuel to make bleeding
easier and to split to heater in bulkhead. Dirty filter would explain
long lag in filling stroke.-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)On Apr 2, 2009, at 8:27 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Hi Pat,
When I changed the one on the engine, I placed a big plastic cup
under it and some of that absorbent stuff below that – if you’re
careful, you won’t spill much – very little.I’m wondering if anyone with a W58 has ever changed the filter in
the lift pump. The electric pump has an integral filter. I know
because I have replacement cartridges from Westerbeke just for that.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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Pat
It depends on your engine.
Slip a zip-lock bag with paper towels in the bottom over the fuel filter before removal. This will catch most of whatever spills.With my old W60 which was a bear to bleed, I found that if I could avoid getting air into the high pressure pump, changing filters was pretty easy. I would first crack a bleed screw on the top of the filter and fill that until fuel spilled out, then close that. Then crack the fuel input line on the high pressure pump and continue bleeding until bubbles stopped coming out. Then close that. If done right, the engine would start right up. Bleeding was done with an electric fuel pump I put in series with the mechanical lift pump. You can do it with the mechanical pump but its tedious.
Hope this helps
Regards
Rich
Original Message
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The W58 has an electric pump (with filter inside) and the bleed screw is at the top aft inboard side of the filter housing. It takes about 15 seconds to bleed, but have some absorbents ready.
Bob
On Thu, Apr 2, 2009 at 11:31 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Pat
It depends on your engine.
Slip a zip-lock bag with paper towels in the bottom over the fuel filter before removal. This will catch most of whatever spills.With my old W60 which was a bear to bleed, I found that if I could avoid getting air into the high pressure pump, changing filters was pretty easy. I would first crack a bleed screw on the top of the filter and fill that until fuel spilled out, then close that. Then crack the fuel input line on the high pressure pump and continue bleeding until bubbles stopped coming out. Then close that. If done right, the engine would start right up. Bleeding was done with an electric fuel pump I put in series with the mechanical lift pump. You can do it with the mechanical pump but its tedious.
Hope this helps
Regards
Rich
Original Message
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Patrick,
I find a pllastic container a little bigger than the filter and squeeze it under the filter before removing it.. Also wrap an oil absorbing pad around and under the area or the filter before removing it.
Norris Larson, Easy Reach, #203.
— On Thu, 4/2/09, Patrick Walters <> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Changing the fuel filter on the pump was not a big deal. I changed it several years ago without much trouble. There is a hand pump on the pump for priming the filter and with the electric fuel pump does a good job of taking care of the air in the filter.
Really didn’t make that big a mess.
Rudy
P-424 #197**************
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I was looking at the parts manual and I don’t see that filter listed. Do you happen to have a part number for it I could search for?
Thanks,
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Not all W58s have this electric pump. (Mine for example does not)
Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:The W58 has an electric pump (with filter inside) and the bleed screw
is at the top aft inboard side of the filter housing. It takes about
15 seconds to bleed, but have some absorbents ready.Bob
On Thu, Apr 2, 2009 at 11:31 AM, <
Pat
It depends on your engine.
Slip a zip-lock bag with paper towels in the bottom over the fuel
filter before removal. This will catch most of whatever spills.With my old W60 which was a bear to bleed, I found that if I could
avoid getting air into the high pressure pump, changing filters
was pretty easy. I would first crack a bleed screw on the top of
the filter and fill that until fuel spilled out, then close that.
Then crack the fuel input line on the high pressure pump and
continue bleeding until bubbles stopped coming out. Then close
that. If done right, the engine would start right up. Bleeding
was done with an electric fuel pump I put in series with the
mechanical lift pump. You can do it with the mechanical pump but
its tedious.Hope this helps
Regards
Rich
Original Message
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I’ll have to crawl around on Sunday and check for that. I’m not sure if I have one either.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
The question on the fuel filter number, the number I have for the Westerbeke part # 24363 and the Fram replacement P3726.
I hope that helps.
Rudy Janis
#197**************
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