Clunky Engine Doghouse

[kalinowski]

I am tired of wrestling with the original clunky engine doghouse in the aft cabin. It’s just to ungainly for the aft cabin, especially underway. It’s easy to bang up the woodwork and you have to get a sheet to cover the aft bunk before setting it down. Let alone dealing with the companionway ladder.

Has anyone develope a way to build the doghouse in sections? Thought I’d ask before reinventing the wheel.

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu

[madsailor]

Hi Dan,

Someone, I forget who, made the box collapsible – or so that it could be taken apart easily.  I think they used those pull-apart hinges.

I agree with you – and especially when I put new sound insulation on the thing, it will weigh a ton.

Bob

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine

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[john stevenson]

Here is what did to re-build my box.  I used thumb screws and threaded inserts to hold the sides together.

http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewEngineBox.htm

On Sun, Nov 1, 2009 at 8:11 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi Dan,

Someone, I forget who, made the box collapsible – or so that it could be taken apart easily.  I think they used those pull-apart hinges.

I agree with you – and especially when I put new sound insulation on the thing, it will weigh a ton.

Bob

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

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[kalinowski]

Thanks for the tips. The idea of break apart hinges seems to be the best approach as I am not resizing the doghouse.

I have resurfaced the doghouse with marine carpeting, using chrome finished metal edging strips from Home Depot for all of the box edges. As we all know, the box gets really chewed up over the years and this approach was visually pleasing, easy and prevents future scarring.

I think I will mount two of the break apart hinges on each of the joints of the three box pieces so that the front will lift off. Aft inside cleats will hopefully keep the sides from falling over till I can deal with them during the removal process.

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu

[Syringa]

Thanks for the info! I like the look of you engine compartment (nice job). I was looking at re-doing my sound proofing and like the look of your tiles. Is the tiles glue still holding up will?

[john stevenson]

Don,
Yes the glue is still holding up – only been a little over a year though.  If it ever does start to loosen I can always go to mechanical fasteners.

On Sun, Nov 1, 2009 at 11:40 AM, Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Thanks for the info! I like the look of you engine compartment (nice job). I was looking at re-doing my sound proofing and like the look of your tiles. Is the tiles glue still holding up will?

Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124

/)+/)+~=:)

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

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[reluctant]

Seperate the three vertical pieces of the doghouse (they were originally screwed together) and use draw latches to hold the sides to the front piece.
Then you can access the engine without removing the top and all if it’s accumulated treasures by removing the ladder, unhooking the latches and pulling the front vertical piece out. Great for checking the trans and engine oil before starting the engine.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#draw-latches/=4dejzf

[kalinowski]

Wow! The best place to hide something is out in the open. I never thought of draw latches. This solves the problem and gives the easy access…………..checking the fluids was always a pain in the stern.

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu

[madsailor]

Or even these:

http://www.marinepartdepot.com/dring.html

On Thu, Nov 5, 2009 at 11:32 AM, reluctant < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Seperate the three vertical pieces of the doghouse (they were originally screwed together) and use draw latches to hold the sides to the front piece.
Then you can access the engine without removing the top and all if it's accumulated treasures by removing the ladder, unhooking the latches and pulling the front vertical piece out. Great for checking the trans and engine oil before starting the engine.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#draw-latches/=4dejzf

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine

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[Chuck Ruble]

Sea Duty; thumb screws into threaded inserts holding the three panels together at the front with the draw latches holding the whole doghouse to the bulkhead.  I find sliding the entire dog house forward easy enough for a overall check.  Only if I'm doing extended work will I break down the three panels, making it easy to store.
 
Chuck

On Thu, Nov 5, 2009 at 4:50 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Or even these:

http://www.marinepartdepot.com/dring.html

On Thu, Nov 5, 2009 at 11:32 AM, reluctant < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Seperate the three vertical pieces of the doghouse (they were originally screwed together) and use draw latches to hold the sides to the front piece.
Then you can access the engine without removing the top and all if it's accumulated treasures by removing the ladder, unhooking the latches and pulling the front vertical piece out. Great for checking the trans and engine oil before starting the engine.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#draw-latches/=4dejzf

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine

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[petedd]

I read Rich’s and Jack’s pages on their repowering projects. Any other
advice out there on pulling the W-58 engine out (and the fuel tank)?

Thanks,

Pete

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[petedd]

Any pictures to share on these break-down doghouses?

Thanks,

Pete

reluctant wrote:

Seperate the three vertical pieces of the doghouse (they were
originally screwed together) and use draw latches to hold the sides to
the front piece.
Then you can access the engine without removing the top and all if
it’s accumulated treasures by removing the ladder, unhooking the
latches and pulling the front vertical piece out. Great for checking
the trans and engine oil before starting the engine.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#draw-latches/=4dejzf

---

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[john stevenson]

Pete,
I supplied a link to the pictures of my engine box earlier in the thread, but if you missed it here it is again.

http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewEngineBox.htm

On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 9:37 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Any pictures to share on these break-down doghouses?

Thanks,

Pete

reluctant wrote:

Seperate the three vertical pieces of the doghouse (they were originally screwed together) and use draw latches to hold the sides to the front piece.
Then you can access the engine without removing the top and all if it's accumulated treasures by removing the ladder, unhooking the latches and pulling the front vertical piece out. Great for checking the trans and engine oil before starting the engine.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#draw-latches/=4dejzf

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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

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[petedd]

Just got my engine out today. I am a bit confused about the bilge
arrangement under the engine. Any water from the bilge aft of the
engine ends up in the separate bilge under the engine. Shouldn’t this
water flow forward to the main bilge and shouldn’t there be a separate
pan under the engine to catch engine fluid leaks and contain them
(separate from water from the aft of the boat?

Thanks,

Pete

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[john stevenson]

Pete,
That's not the way my bilge works.  Water from aft of the engine compartment flows under the containment pan under the engine into the main bilge.  I know because I have had a persistent leak from the rudder post stuffing box.  Tightening or re-packing the stuffing box will dry things up for a year or so, but then the leaks start again.  Currently my bilge pump comes on every 24-36 hours for about 30 seconds.  The only water that collects in the under engine containment pan is that from dealing with the engine water and coolant hoses.

On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 6:09 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Just got my engine out today.  I am a bit confused about the bilge arrangement under the engine.   Any water from the bilge aft of the engine ends up in the separate bilge under the engine.  Shouldn't this water flow forward to the main bilge and shouldn't there be a separate pan under the engine to catch engine fluid leaks and contain them (separate from water from the aft of the boat?

Thanks,

Pete

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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

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[petedd]

John,

You did a great job documenting this project. Thanks.

I was wondering if others had pictures as well.

Pete

John Stevenson wrote:

Pete,
I supplied a link to the pictures of my engine box earlier in the
thread, but if you missed it here it is again.

http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewEngineBox.htm

On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 9:37 AM, Pete Dubler <
> wrote:

Any pictures to share on these break-down doghouses?

Thanks,

Pete

reluctant wrote:

Seperate the three vertical pieces of the doghouse (they were
originally screwed together) and use draw latches to hold the
sides to the front piece.
Then you can access the engine without removing the top and
all if it’s accumulated treasures by removing the ladder,
unhooking the latches and pulling the front vertical piece
out. Great for checking the trans and engine oil before
starting the engine.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#draw-latches/=4dejzf

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—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com <http://www.svsarah.com>

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[petedd]

Thanks John. I guess I need to sort this out.

John Stevenson wrote:

Pete,
That’s not the way my bilge works. Water from aft of the engine
compartment flows under the containment pan under the engine into the
main bilge. I know because I have had a persistent leak from the
rudder post stuffing box. Tightening or re-packing the stuffing box
will dry things up for a year or so, but then the leaks start again.
Currently my bilge pump comes on every 24-36 hours for about 30
seconds. The only water that collects in the under engine containment
pan is that from dealing with the engine water and coolant hoses.

On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 6:09 PM, Pete Dubler <
> wrote:

Just got my engine out today. I am a bit confused about the bilge
arrangement under the engine. Any water from the bilge aft of
the engine ends up in the separate bilge under the engine.
Shouldn’t this water flow forward to the main bilge and shouldn’t
there be a separate pan under the engine to catch engine fluid
leaks and contain them (separate from water from the aft of the boat?

Thanks,

Pete

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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com <http://www.svsarah.com>

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[Phil Fontaine]

Pete,
My engine pan has always collected water from places other than hoses or
pumps. I pump it out once in a while and clean it up a bit. But, mostly I
keep an oil-sorb pad in the pan across the front of it and another just
forward and below it to keep any oil in the overflow from getting into the
bilge.I also keep an oil absorber in the bilge to sop up anything that might
get by the first two. John evedidently has some separation between the hull
and the pan that allows water to bypass it.
I will be cureious to to see what other owners report on the matter.
Phil Fontaine
Aurora

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[madsailor]

Well, my bilge is a lovely long stream from rudder shaft packing under the fuel tank under the engine (where, by the way, the bolts for the prop strut are) to a waterfall into the deepest darkest part of the bilge.  Not only is there no sump under the engine, there's no room for one.

Like Phil, I have a veritable store load of oilsorb cloth under there..

Bob

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine

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