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I replaced mine about 20 years ago. I used a checkbook. The yard did it. I watched them however to see how it was done. They used a threaded rod run through the bearing and a piece of cast-iron pipe and large washers to fashion a press. There are two set-screws that hold the cuttless bearing in place, both on the port side as I recall. In theory, if you remove both, you can press the old one out with this arrangement. It stuck in there so they cut a grove in the old one and tried the press again, Out it came.
Hope this helps
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Removed ours using the method you are using. Cut it most of the way through in two places 180 degrees apart, then curled up one edge with a narrow screwdriver and a hammer. Once it is split the length of the bearing, grip the cut part with some heavy pliers, twist and pull it out.
Or pay the yard to do it.
Quent -
And anyone with a decent prop guy can borrow his hydraulic press/
Puller. It has variously fitted end caps and a piston. Better than beating a rod with a hammer cause you don’t mangle your bearing strut. So easy me and another eedgit figured it out on the fly.Adam Silverstein, iPhone
On Dec 19, 2009, at 7:38 PM, “Patrick Walters” < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Anyone have experience cutting out cutlas bearing? I can’t seem to cut
anymore without hitting the strut on the back or narrower end.Any suggestions?
-p
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I have found a site put up by someone who calls himself Maine Sail and his instructions and pics are unbelieveable! His description of how to replace the cutlass bearing is well worth reading! I wish I had seen this before I replaced mine (twice in 14 years!).
Rodd Leeds
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Those instructions are great.
On hull #73 using a press to remove the cutlass bearing was not an option. There was a lip at the forward end of the strut that prevented the use of a press.
We had to use a sawzall to cut the bearing and then worked it out in a fashion similar to the instructions.
The new bearing went in with a DIY jig similar to his after leaving the cutlass bearing in the freezer overnight.
RickOn Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 8:47 AM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I have found a site put up by someone who calls himself Maine Sail and his instructions and pics are unbelieveable! His description of how to replace the cutlass bearing is well worth reading! I wish I had seen this before I replaced mine (twice in 14 years!).
http://www.anything-sailing.com/replacing-cutlass-bearing-photo-heavy-t1239.html?s=2b135f5683d941832e5e20ac03998d49&
Rodd Leeds
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Pretty much what we did. On a similar note, has anyone tried the portable hydraulic tools that Harbor Freight sells? They have an electric cable lug crimper for $50 and also a 12 ton gear puller for a bit more.
I bought the crimper but have not yet used it. It appears to be a nice piece of gear, ideal for crimping battery cable lugs in the field, a remedy for that old measure once, cut twice problem.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132 -
There are some set screws to be found under the paint and removed before
trying to pull the cutlass.Pete
Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:I replaced mine about 20 years ago. I used a checkbook. The yard did
it. I watched them however to see how it was done. They used a
threaded rod run through the bearing and a piece of cast-iron pipe and
large washers to fashion a press. There are two set-screws that hold
the cuttless bearing in place, both on the port side as I recall. In
theory, if you remove both, you can press the old one out with this
arrangement. It stuck in there so they cut a grove in the old one and
tried the press again, Out it came.Hope this helps
Rich
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Quent,
Thanks for the info on the crimper. I've just ordered one. I plan to redo all of the battery cables before spring, adding a separate starter battery bank. That little hammered crimper I've used for years, probably isn't up to this job.On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 9:36 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Pretty much what we did. On a similar note, has anyone tried the portable hydraulic tools that Harbor Freight sells? They have an electric cable lug crimper for $50 and also a 12 ton gear puller for a bit more.
I bought the crimper but have not yet used it. It appears to be a nice piece of gear, ideal for crimping battery cable lugs in the field, a remedy for that old measure once, cut twice problem.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Thos are awesome instructions. The homemade press for installing looks super simple. I too have the lip on the foreward end of the strut as mentioned, but I was also not cutting right at the set screws (which I had already pulled), I’ll try that!
Thanks,
-p—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comFrom: “Rodd Leeds” <>
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 5:47 AM
To:
Subject: Re: Cutlas bearingI have found a site put up by someone who calls himself Maine Sail and his instructions and pics are unbelieveable! His description of how to replace the cutlass bearing is well worth reading! I wish I had seen this before I replaced mine (twice in 14 years!).
Rodd Leeds
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Well now I have a bolt sheared off in the set screw hole. 🙁
I think I’m going to buy a proper cutless puller and a prop puller seems like I could get lots of free beer loaning them out.
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 22, 2009, at 2:08, “Patrick Walters” < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thos are awesome instructions. The homemade press for installing looks super simple. I too have the lip on the foreward end of the strut as mentioned, but I was also not cutting right at the set screws (which I had already pulled), I’ll try that!Thanks,
-p—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comFrom: “Rodd Leeds” < ([email][/email])>
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 5:47 AM
To: ()
Subject: Re: Cutlas bearingI have found a site put up by someone who calls himself Maine Sail and his instructions and pics are unbelieveable! His description of how to replace the cutlass bearing is well worth reading! I wish I had seen this before I replaced mine (twice in 14 years!).
Rodd Leeds
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
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Other… I managed to get everything out. I’ll explain more details later. Have to go pickup Dawn.
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 23, 2009, at 13:48, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Sorry to hear that! What type of bolt was it–stainless or other? and what size thread was it, 1/4-20?Rodd Leeds
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
There are tools for removing stuck bolts.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95530Here’s what I use for a prop-puller
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=8832Rich
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6″ or 8″ ?
Adam Silverstein, iPhone
On Dec 23, 2009, at 9:05 PM, “Rich Carter” < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:There are tools for removing stuck bolts.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95530Here’s what I use for a prop-puller
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=8832Rich
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I have the 6″ set. Its only $10 more for the 8″ set but I didn’t see it when I ordered. The 6″ puller works on my prop. I had to cut a dimple into the center end of the prop shaft for the prop-puller to work right. The dimple retains the puller at the center of the shaft. My prop and shaft are both stainless. I suppose I could have used a drill, but stainless is a bitch to drill. I had to remachine the shaft anyway so I had the machine shop cut the dimple when they did the work. It works pretty well pulling the prop. I put never-sieze on the shaft during assembly to assist in removal. If the jaws slip off the edge of the prop, wrap a hose-clam around them to keep the jaws from slipping off.
Regards
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Her’es the follow-up info…
I “thought” I had cut all the way through the cutless (that’s the proper spelling right?) bearing, but I had not.
I used a handheld hacksaw blade to really cut the cutless bearing. I was very carefull to not damage the lip in the foreward end of the strut.
It’s really hard to tell if you’ve cut through that end of the bearing. I did scratch the inside of the strut with the saw, but not much.Anyway, once I had really cut the bearing I was able to use a small screwdriver and a hammer to tap it and start ie bending away
from the strut. then I used a large screwdrive and bent it i, it folded very easily inward.I had to bend it in quite a bit because of the bolt that broke off in the set screw hole was sticking into the tube about 1/4″.
Once the bearing was out I was able to use a tiny screw driver and a hammer, tiny little tapping, and more patience that I am known
to posess to slowly back the screw out. I had broke two of those “removes broken screws” thingies. Those things suck, they always break.Anyway, bearing out no damage to the strut and things are looking good!
-p—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comFrom: “Patrick Walters” <>
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 3:52 PM
To: “” <>
Subject: Re: Cutlas bearingOther… I managed to get everything out. I’ll explain more details later. Have to go pickup Dawn.
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 23, 2009, at 13:48, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Sorry to hear that! What type of bolt was it–stainless or other? and what size thread was it, 1/4-20?Rodd Leeds
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Actually, Pat, it's cutlass, just like the sword. Your method of removal is pretty typical when all else fails and there's no puller or you're by yourself, or for any number of reasons…
You should be proud of your patience, though.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Pat
No, it cutless bearing. The bearing doesn’t cut the shaft, so its cutless. Here’s a good link with info.
http://www.diybob.com/diyCutlessBearing.htmRich
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I stand corrected.
Sorry.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I think there is a lot of folklore about this name. I was told by a guy who was obsessed with marine terminology that the bearing was named after its inventor. I don't remember how this guy spelled the inventor's name.
On Mon, Dec 28, 2009 at 9:35 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I stand corrected.
Sorry.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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ok , the debate continues, with my vote for “cutlass” as in the following link for the Duramax “Brad” model, which is the one I have used on my boat.
http://www.tacomapropeller.com/6223/Duramax-Marine-Cutlass-Bearings.html
You pays your money and you takes your choice!
Rodd Leeds
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I wonder if a shot of liquid nitrogen (which we all keep in our tool boxes, right? but easy enough to get from the welding supply house or borrow an applicator from a doctor or get one of the wart freezing kits at the drug store) would shrink the bearing enough for it to slide out easier?
Just a thought…
Pete
On 12/28/2009 7:21 AM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Pat
No, it cutless bearing. The bearing doesn’t cut the shaft, so its cutless. Here’s a good link with info.
http://www.diybob.com/diyCutlessBearing.htmRich
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Never had a problem getting the old one out (after a tough job sawing it and bending it), but what I do is put the new bearing in the freezer overnight and then bring it down to the boat in an ice chest. This does work!!
Rodd Leeds
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Patrick
Look at this linkhttp://www.strutpro.com/ on pulling Cutless bearing.
Your yard should have a tool something like this.
Don
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Not in Maine in December………
— On Mon, 12/28/09, Rodd Leeds <> wrote:
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On 12/28/2009 2:37 PM, Syringa wrote:
Patrick
Look at this linkhttp://www.strutpro.com/ on pulling Cutless bearing.
Your yard should have a tool something like this.
Don
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
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