Forums › General Discussion › decisions regarding jib size and cut
- This topic has 7 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 4 months ago by
patn.
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July 16, 2012 at 9:36 pm #68594
Seawater
ParticipantI am having a new jib made for Madness by Haarstick.
Any experience you may have to share would be appreciated.
My priorities are:
Sailing more and motoring less, including to windward and lighter airs
Having a single headsail (no sail changes)
No deck sweepers, but since my profurl roller is quite high, this is not likely to be an issueMy big questions are:
How big? 135? 145? I would like to point higher, and doug at haarstick says the 145 might helpHow high a clew?
Should I be coordinating with the sailmaker regarding headstay tension? (that one is for you Rich, I remember you said that tension is the secret to upwind work. Ice boat sails are dialed in for a lot of sag, and are always going upwind, so maybe the cut of the sail can help compensate for my lack of hydraulic tensioner)
BTW – I tend to reef by dropping the main while on a reach, and by reefing the main on a close haul. Only after the main and mizzen are down do I roll in part of the jib.
Walter
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July 17, 2012 at 12:54 am #78671
madsailor
ModeratorIf you’re looking for pointing ability, make sure your clew is as low as
possible, just above the lifelines, so that you can trim it in fairly
tightly.Bob
On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Seawater wrote:
I am having a new jib made for Madness by Haarstick.
Any experience you may have to share would be appreciated.
My priorities are:
Sailing more and motoring less, including to windward and lighter airs
Having a single headsail (no sail changes)
No deck sweepers, but since my profurl roller is quite high, this is not
likely to be an issueMy big questions are:
How big? 135? 145? I would like to point higher, and doug at haarstick
says the 145 might helpHow high a clew?
Should I be coordinating with the sailmaker regarding headstay tension?
(that one is for you Rich, I remember you said that tension is the secret
to upwind work. Ice boat sails are dialed in for a lot of sag, and are
always going upwind, so maybe the cut of the sail can help compensate for
my lack of hydraulic tensioner)BTW – I tend to reef by dropping the main while on a reach, and by reefing
the main on a close haul. Only after the main and mizzen are down do I roll
in part of the jib.Walter
Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1_______________________________________________
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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July 17, 2012 at 7:08 am #78672
Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI have well constructed sails with great cloth, but I don’ think the shape
is awesome. If you wanted to greatly improve the pointing or any thing
else, I’d look for a sail maker who works on race boats will come out with
you and sail on your boat in light and heavy winds before s/he decides the
right cut for your jib. Also, expect to pay extra for such service.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
@DeepPlaya |
W7PEAOn Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 5:54 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
If you’re looking for pointing ability, make sure your clew is as low as
possible, just above the lifelines, so that you can trim it in fairly
tightly.Bob
On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Seawater
wrote:I am having a new jib made for Madness by Haarstick.
Any experience you may have to share would be appreciated.
My priorities are:
Sailing more and motoring less, including to windward and lighter airs
Having a single headsail (no sail changes)
No deck sweepers, but since my profurl roller is quite high, this is not
likely to be an issueMy big questions are:
How big? 135? 145? I would like to point higher, and doug at haarstick
says the 145 might helpHow high a clew?
Should I be coordinating with the sailmaker regarding headstay tension?
(that one is for you Rich, I remember you said that tension is the secret
to upwind work. Ice boat sails are dialed in for a lot of sag, and are
always going upwind, so maybe the cut of the sail can help compensate for
my lack of hydraulic tensioner)BTW – I tend to reef by dropping the main while on a reach, and by
reefing
the main on a close haul. Only after the main and mizzen are down do I
roll
in part of the jib.
Walter
Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
July 17, 2012 at 11:18 am #78673
quent
ParticipantMy light air sail is the Westerbeke so I’m not one to offer sail advice. However, the suggestion of one sailmaker who I consulted was to get a feathering or folding prop to boost light air performance.
Quent
SV Clairebuoyant #132 -
July 17, 2012 at 12:16 pm #78674
john stevensonParticipantWalter,
I have a 10-year old 135 Genoa, which has served me well and still has good
shape. If you go with a 145 and a high clew you will likely have to sheet
it to a snatch block near the cockpit as my 135 is sheeted to very near the
end of the track. Your sailmaker should be able to give you the trade-offs
between overlap and clew height.
While I can sheet in my Genoa and point to nearly 40 deg, in anything but
very light airs I’ll be going sideways nearly as much as forward. So the
Yanmar is my windward sail, unless I can foot off to about 50-60 deg.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 7:18 AM, quent wrote:
My light air sail is the Westerbeke so I’m not one to offer sail advice.
However, the suggestion of one sailmaker who I consulted was to get a
feathering or folding prop to boost light air performance.
Quent
SV Clairebuoyant #132_______________________________________________
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July 17, 2012 at 1:20 pm #78675
RichCarterParticipantWalter,
With a ketch, there is little you can do to pull the sag out of the headstay. You might have success by having your sailmaker cut the sail flatter but its a compromise. If you have a fixed propeller, switching to a folding or feathering prop will provide significant gains in light air. Keeping your bottom clean is also a key to boat performance. You can have a diver occasionally clean your bottom or do a mid-season haul and a quick wash. I’ve cleaned my bottom using brush, mask, fins, and snorkel.A cruising spinnaker helps significantly when reaching and running in light air.
I have a 150% genoa. I’m shopping for new sails. I wouldn’t consider going down in size. Its a big sail and hard to sheet in with the Lewmar 48’s that I have. Reefing the headsail is a compromise. You lose sail shape and therefore pointing ability. I don’t know if you have the tall or short rig. I have a tall mast since I have a sloop. If you have the shorter stick, a 150 might not be as hard to sheet in. As for cut and material, consult with a local sailmaker. They know more about options and choices than we do.
Hope this helps
Regards
Rich
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July 17, 2012 at 1:36 pm #78676
Seawater
ParticipantI do have the feathering max prop, and carry my dinghy in davits, both of which really improve light air and upwind performance. Dragging the dinghy with a 15 hp on it will result in really poor tacking angles.
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July 17, 2012 at 1:36 pm #78677
patn
ModeratorOur boat came with a 150 and no other jib. It was really just a big
heavy bed sheet. In ~2008 we spent about 4K. on a 150 and 130. The 150
is marked so we can reef to 130 and the 110 marked at 90. We keep one
on the deck in a deck bag while the other is hoisted. I can’t remember
what weight material the 150 is but it is significantly lighter than the
110. (we’re remembering 6oz and 9oz – but.. we’re old) Both have rope
luffs.I should be able but can’t tell you how well we can point with either
one. I guess while I’m geeky about somethings this is not one of them.
I can say that on light wind days ( months) the 150 is wonderful. We do
plan for the next day by swapping sails if we feel the next day might
warrant the smaller heavier sail.Each has its own set of sheets permanently installed. Neither is too
difficult to handle on their respective weather days.– pat
wrote, On 7/17/12 8:20 AM:
Quote:Walter,
With a ketch, there is little you can do to pull the sag out of the headstay. You might have success by having your sailmaker cut the sail flatter but its a compromise. If you have a fixed propeller, switching to a folding or feathering prop will provide significant gains in light air. Keeping your bottom clean is also a key to boat performance. You can have a diver occasionally clean your bottom or do a mid-season haul and a quick wash. I’ve cleaned my bottom using brush, mask, fins, and snorkel.A cruising spinnaker helps significantly when reaching and running in light air.
I have a 150% genoa. I’m shopping for new sails. I wouldn’t consider going down in size. Its a big sail and hard to sheet in with the Lewmar 48’s that I have. Reefing the headsail is a compromise. You lose sail shape and therefore pointing ability. I don’t know if you have the tall or short rig. I have a tall mast since I have a sloop. If you have the shorter stick, a 150 might not be as hard to sheet in. As for cut and material, consult with a local sailmaker. They know more about options and choices than we do.
Hope this helps
Regards
Rich
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