Forums General Discussion decisions regarding jib size and cut

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    • #68594
      Seawater
      Participant

      I am having a new jib made for Madness by Haarstick.

      Any experience you may have to share would be appreciated.

      My priorities are:
      Sailing more and motoring less, including to windward and lighter airs
      Having a single headsail (no sail changes)
      No deck sweepers, but since my profurl roller is quite high, this is not likely to be an issue

      My big questions are:
      How big? 135? 145? I would like to point higher, and doug at haarstick says the 145 might help

      How high a clew?

      Should I be coordinating with the sailmaker regarding headstay tension? (that one is for you Rich, I remember you said that tension is the secret to upwind work. Ice boat sails are dialed in for a lot of sag, and are always going upwind, so maybe the cut of the sail can help compensate for my lack of hydraulic tensioner)

      BTW – I tend to reef by dropping the main while on a reach, and by reefing the main on a close haul. Only after the main and mizzen are down do I roll in part of the jib.

      Walter

    • #78671
      madsailor
      Moderator

      If you’re looking for pointing ability, make sure your clew is as low as
      possible, just above the lifelines, so that you can trim it in fairly
      tightly.

      Bob

      On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Seawater wrote:

      I am having a new jib made for Madness by Haarstick.

      Any experience you may have to share would be appreciated.

      My priorities are:
      Sailing more and motoring less, including to windward and lighter airs
      Having a single headsail (no sail changes)
      No deck sweepers, but since my profurl roller is quite high, this is not
      likely to be an issue

      My big questions are:
      How big? 135? 145? I would like to point higher, and doug at haarstick
      says the 145 might help

      How high a clew?

      Should I be coordinating with the sailmaker regarding headstay tension?
      (that one is for you Rich, I remember you said that tension is the secret
      to upwind work. Ice boat sails are dialed in for a lot of sag, and are
      always going upwind, so maybe the cut of the sail can help compensate for
      my lack of hydraulic tensioner)

      BTW – I tend to reef by dropping the main while on a reach, and by reefing
      the main on a close haul. Only after the main and mizzen are down do I roll
      in part of the jib.

      Walter


      Walter
      SV Madness
      P424 Hull #1

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      Bob Fine
      s/v Pelican
      Pearson 424 Hull #8
      http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    • #78672
      Hull152_Patrick
      Spectator

      I have well constructed sails with great cloth, but I don’ think the shape
      is awesome. If you wanted to greatly improve the pointing or any thing
      else, I’d look for a sail maker who works on race boats will come out with
      you and sail on your boat in light and heavy winds before s/he decides the
      right cut for your jib. Also, expect to pay extra for such service.

      -p


      s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
      @DeepPlaya |
      W7PEA

      On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 5:54 PM, Robert Fine wrote:

      If you’re looking for pointing ability, make sure your clew is as low as
      possible, just above the lifelines, so that you can trim it in fairly
      tightly.

      Bob

      On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Seawater
      wrote:

      I am having a new jib made for Madness by Haarstick.

      Any experience you may have to share would be appreciated.

      My priorities are:
      Sailing more and motoring less, including to windward and lighter airs
      Having a single headsail (no sail changes)
      No deck sweepers, but since my profurl roller is quite high, this is not
      likely to be an issue

      My big questions are:
      How big? 135? 145? I would like to point higher, and doug at haarstick
      says the 145 might help

      How high a clew?

      Should I be coordinating with the sailmaker regarding headstay tension?
      (that one is for you Rich, I remember you said that tension is the secret
      to upwind work. Ice boat sails are dialed in for a lot of sag, and are
      always going upwind, so maybe the cut of the sail can help compensate for
      my lack of hydraulic tensioner)

      BTW – I tend to reef by dropping the main while on a reach, and by

      reefing

      the main on a close haul. Only after the main and mizzen are down do I

      roll

      in part of the jib.

      Walter


      Walter
      SV Madness
      P424 Hull #1

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      maillist mailing list

      https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org


      Bob Fine
      s/v Pelican
      Pearson 424 Hull #8
      http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
      _______________________________________________
      maillist mailing list

      https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

      _______________________________________________
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      https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

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      Owners no more...
      Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

    • #78673
      quent
      Participant

      My light air sail is the Westerbeke so I’m not one to offer sail advice. However, the suggestion of one sailmaker who I consulted was to get a feathering or folding prop to boost light air performance.
      Quent
      SV Clairebuoyant #132

    • #78674
      john stevenson
      Participant

      Walter,
      I have a 10-year old 135 Genoa, which has served me well and still has good
      shape. If you go with a 145 and a high clew you will likely have to sheet
      it to a snatch block near the cockpit as my 135 is sheeted to very near the
      end of the track. Your sailmaker should be able to give you the trade-offs
      between overlap and clew height.
      While I can sheet in my Genoa and point to nearly 40 deg, in anything but
      very light airs I’ll be going sideways nearly as much as forward. So the
      Yanmar is my windward sail, unless I can foot off to about 50-60 deg.

      Regards,
      John Stevenson
      http://www.svsarah.com

      On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 7:18 AM, quent wrote:

      My light air sail is the Westerbeke so I’m not one to offer sail advice.
      However, the suggestion of one sailmaker who I consulted was to get a
      feathering or folding prop to boost light air performance.
      Quent
      SV Clairebuoyant #132

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      maillist mailing list

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    • #78675
      RichCarter
      Participant

      Walter,
      With a ketch, there is little you can do to pull the sag out of the headstay. You might have success by having your sailmaker cut the sail flatter but its a compromise. If you have a fixed propeller, switching to a folding or feathering prop will provide significant gains in light air. Keeping your bottom clean is also a key to boat performance. You can have a diver occasionally clean your bottom or do a mid-season haul and a quick wash. I’ve cleaned my bottom using brush, mask, fins, and snorkel.

      A cruising spinnaker helps significantly when reaching and running in light air.

      I have a 150% genoa. I’m shopping for new sails. I wouldn’t consider going down in size. Its a big sail and hard to sheet in with the Lewmar 48’s that I have. Reefing the headsail is a compromise. You lose sail shape and therefore pointing ability. I don’t know if you have the tall or short rig. I have a tall mast since I have a sloop. If you have the shorter stick, a 150 might not be as hard to sheet in. As for cut and material, consult with a local sailmaker. They know more about options and choices than we do.

      Hope this helps
      Regards
      Rich


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    • #78676
      Seawater
      Participant

      I do have the feathering max prop, and carry my dinghy in davits, both of which really improve light air and upwind performance. Dragging the dinghy with a 15 hp on it will result in really poor tacking angles.

    • #78677
      patn
      Moderator

      Our boat came with a 150 and no other jib. It was really just a big
      heavy bed sheet. In ~2008 we spent about 4K. on a 150 and 130. The 150
      is marked so we can reef to 130 and the 110 marked at 90. We keep one
      on the deck in a deck bag while the other is hoisted. I can’t remember
      what weight material the 150 is but it is significantly lighter than the
      110. (we’re remembering 6oz and 9oz – but.. we’re old) Both have rope
      luffs.

      I should be able but can’t tell you how well we can point with either
      one. I guess while I’m geeky about somethings this is not one of them.
      I can say that on light wind days ( months) the 150 is wonderful. We do
      plan for the next day by swapping sails if we feel the next day might
      warrant the smaller heavier sail.

      Each has its own set of sheets permanently installed. Neither is too
      difficult to handle on their respective weather days.

      – pat

      wrote, On 7/17/12 8:20 AM:

      Quote:
      Walter,
      With a ketch, there is little you can do to pull the sag out of the headstay. You might have success by having your sailmaker cut the sail flatter but its a compromise. If you have a fixed propeller, switching to a folding or feathering prop will provide significant gains in light air. Keeping your bottom clean is also a key to boat performance. You can have a diver occasionally clean your bottom or do a mid-season haul and a quick wash. I’ve cleaned my bottom using brush, mask, fins, and snorkel.

      A cruising spinnaker helps significantly when reaching and running in light air.

      I have a 150% genoa. I’m shopping for new sails. I wouldn’t consider going down in size. Its a big sail and hard to sheet in with the Lewmar 48’s that I have. Reefing the headsail is a compromise. You lose sail shape and therefore pointing ability. I don’t know if you have the tall or short rig. I have a tall mast since I have a sloop. If you have the shorter stick, a 150 might not be as hard to sheet in. As for cut and material, consult with a local sailmaker. They know more about options and choices than we do.

      Hope this helps
      Regards
      Rich


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