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I think my fuel gauge is busted, or this w58 drinks very little
diesel. Is the deck window the best way to check the tank?Just left the lats n atts party at poulsbo and headed to the San
Juans. 😉
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
I've found it's a pretty good gauge.Â
Bob
On Sun, Aug 9, 2009 at 3:49 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I think my fuel gauge is busted, or this w58 drinks very little diesel. Is the deck window the best way to check the  tank?
Just left the lats n atts party at poulsbo and headed to the San Juans. 😉
-p
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Ours is as well. We find we average ~.8 gallons/hour at a good clip.
– pat
On 8/9/09, Robert Fine <> wrote:
I’ve found it’s a pretty good gauge.
Bob
On Sun, Aug 9, 2009 at 3:49 PM, Patrick Walters
<>wrote:I think my fuel gauge is busted, or this w58 drinks very little diesel. Is
the deck window the best way to check the tank?Just left the lats n atts party at poulsbo and headed to the San Juans. 😉
-p
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Pat,
I replaced the original, broken tank-top gauge, the one seen through the cockpit sole portlight, when I first bought my boat. The new gauge has proven to be pretty accurate, enough for me to know when the tank is full or half full or less than 1/4 full and so on. Don’t know yet what the fuel consumption rate is with the also-relatively-new Yanmar engine because I have only “topped off” the tank twice, neither time to exactly the same level. However, it appears it’s close to averaging 0.5/gal/hr, albeit including a little near-idle running time and a generally light hand on the throttle underway.
I wonder what consumption rate others are getting with a Yanmar 4JH4E.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Tor,
I also haven't captured any good metrics on the engine. I suspect that the metrics in the first 500 hours may not be the same as for the remaining life of the engine. My sense from head calculation when we took on fuel last fall going down the ICW (probably the best time to try to capture these metrics) is that I was burning around .7 gal/hour at 2000 RPM. That would be a little less than the W60. Of course I didn't write down the fuel taken on and actually divide it by the hours run since the last top off.
As you point out, we seldom fill to the same level each time, so it is really necessary to collect data from a dozen or more fill-ups to average out those discrepancies. I also have a generator which draws fuel from the same tank, so if I spend time at anchor between fuel ups the metrics are not much use for calculating consumption by the engine. That's why for me the ICW is probably the best place to get those numbers. I rarely use the generator when anchored on the ICW (drop the hook at sunset, pull it up at sunrise) and there is very little, if any sailing, so all of the operating hours are on the engine. RPMs can vary though if I'm trying to make the next bridge opening.On Sun, Aug 9, 2009 at 7:59 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Pat,I replaced the original, broken tank-top gauge, the one seen through the cockpit sole portlight, when I first bought my boat. The new gauge has proven to be pretty accurate, enough for me to know when the tank is full or half full or less than 1/4 full and so on. Don't know yet what the fuel consumption rate is with the also-relatively-new Yanmar engine because I have only “topped off” the tank twice, neither time to exactly the same level. However, it appears it's close to averaging 0.5/gal/hr, albeit including a little near-idle running time and a generally light hand on the throttle underway.Â
Â
I wonder what consumption rate others are getting with a Yanmar 4JH4E.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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John,
I suspect my engine’s fuel consumption rate is going to be more like 0.7 gph @ 1800-2000 RPM’s, too. Some of that 0.5 figure includes motor-sailing offshore in light airs, with the engine ticking over at fairly low RPM’s. As you say, I’ll know more certainly after a dozen tanks-full. At least now that I have that little Honda generator I’m not using the engine for battery charging or heating the water, so when it’s running it’s working.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I’m 99% sure it’s stuck at 3/4 i’m going to fill up in Port Townsend, WA tomorrow to confirm.
Lying at anchor in Mystery Bay, WA tonight. It’s called mystery bay apparently because you come here to figure out what is up with your boat.
Besides the gauge i just isolated a fresh water leak which zapped one of our tanks. Two other boats in our armada also had issues, one stuck in reverse in a narrow channel and the other is having charge issues. We haven’t even made it somewhere exotic yet.
-p
Sent from my phoneOn Aug 9, 2009, at 3:05 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I’ve found it’s a pretty good gauge.
Bob
On Sun, Aug 9, 2009 at 3:49 PM, Patrick Walters <()> wrote:
I think my fuel gauge is busted, or this w58 drinks very little diesel. Is the deck window the best way to check the tank?
Just left the lats n atts party at poulsbo and headed to the San Juans. 😉
-p
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Patrick, the pick up is a pretty simple mechanical device easily removed. Remove the screws around the gauge and it lifts out. Note the orientation of the float arm, it probably has to clear a baffle. Once out you can manually operate it to determine it's functionality. Careful with the rubber seal. 2 hour job. While you have it out, if you have an oil buddy, or some similar oil changing device draw some fuel from the bottom of the tank. Ideally you'll get any water that might be down there. Clean fuel would be even better!Â
Chuck
On Sun, Aug 9, 2009 at 10:27 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I'm 99% sure it's stuck at 3/4 i'm going to fill up in Port Townsend, WA tomorrow to confirm.
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I’m replying to this old thread where I figured out my fuel tank gauge didn’t work. https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=832
I pulled it out today. I love having the right tool and I did not. I had to borrow a longer screwdriver so now I know need to buy one of those!
Anyway, the unit is of the kind with the arm that floats off to one side. The initial tube is 12″ long with a fulcrum and the float arm is 11-1/4″ long. The dial says Rochester Gauges http://www.rochestergauges.com/ Dial No. 5-601 (not listed there shocking).
The tank is 24″ deep at the point of the gauge. Can anyone validate my assumption that the tank is indeed just a rectangular box and even on the bottom? Just wanted to double check because that will affect the sender I buy as they come in lengths.
You know me, I’ll have pics of all this later.
Thanks a lot!
-pOwners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Patrick,
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/20080109%20Old%20tank%201.JPG
This is a picture of the original tank on Sarah. As you can see it is not
even on the bottom. The front of the tank is on the left in the picture.On Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 9:34 PM, Patrick_Seattle <>wrote:
I’m replying to this old thread where I figured out my fuel tank gauge
didn’t work. https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=832I pulled it out today. I love having the right tool and I did not. I had to
borrow a longer screwdriver so now I know need to buy one of those!Anyway, the unit is of the kind with the arm that floats off to one side.
The initial tube is 12″ long with a fulcrum and the float arm is 11-1/4″
long. The dial says Rochester Gauges http://www.rochestergauges.com/ Dial
No. 5-601 (not listed there shocking).The tank is 24″ deep at the point of the gauge. Can anyone validate my
assumption that the tank is indeed just a rectangular box and even on the
bottom? Just wanted to double check because that will affect the sender I
buy as they come in lengths.You know me, I’ll have pics of all this later.
Thanks a lot!
-p
Deep Playa, #152 http://www.DeepPlaya.com_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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My notes are at http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/FuelTank.html
I replaced the gauge with a remote meter. The tank needed a sender that
doesn’t have a swingarm because the baffle was in the way. The sender
slides up and down. As I recall, the default length is 24″, which is too
tall. I don’t know what the shop did to cut it.Rich
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Original Message
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If you have the original tank, I might still have the gauge from my
old tank if that will help you out.Pete
On 8/24/2010 7:34 PM, Patrick_Seattle wrote:
I’m replying to this old thread where I figured out my fuel tank gauge didn’t work. https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=832
I pulled it out today. I love having the right tool and I did not. I had to borrow a longer screwdriver so now I know need to buy one of those!
Anyway, the unit is of the kind with the arm that floats off to one side. The initial tube is 12″ long with a fulcrum and the float arm is 11-1/4″ long. The dial says Rochester Gauges http://www.rochestergauges.com/ Dial No. 5-601 (not listed there shocking).
The tank is 24″ deep at the point of the gauge. Can anyone validate my assumption that the tank is indeed just a rectangular box and even on the bottom? Just wanted to double check because that will affect the sender I buy as they come in lengths.
You know me, I’ll have pics of all this later.
Thanks a lot!
-p
Deep Playa, #152 http://www.DeepPlaya.com_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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I do have the original tank (no leaks yet) and I’m going to replace the
gauge with a sender which I can at least attach a remote gauge to or hook
into my NMEA 2000 network. Laying on the cockpit floor, putting water on the
scratched up viewing glass and using a flashlight is not my idea of a good
time.Thanks Rich and John for the pics. Richard I measured my tank at 24″ where
the gauge was and you had your’s made 1″ less deep at 23″ was it also an 1″
less deep at 17″ in the aft end (looking at your PDF drawing.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/fuelTank.pdf) such that the original
tank was 18″?I think with this info I’ll be able to pick my sender and get it calibrated
properly.Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 7:38 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
If you have the original tank, I might still have the gauge from my old
tank if that will help you out.Pete
On 8/24/2010 7:34 PM, Patrick_Seattle wrote:
I’m replying to this old thread where I figured out my fuel tank gauge
didn’t work. https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=832I pulled it out today. I love having the right tool and I did not. I had
to borrow a longer screwdriver so now I know need to buy one of those!Anyway, the unit is of the kind with the arm that floats off to one side.
The initial tube is 12″ long with a fulcrum and the float arm is 11-1/4″
long. The dial says Rochester Gauges http://www.rochestergauges.com/ Dial
No. 5-601 (not listed there shocking).The tank is 24″ deep at the point of the gauge. Can anyone validate my
assumption that the tank is indeed just a rectangular box and even on the
bottom? Just wanted to double check because that will affect the sender I
buy as they come in lengths.You know me, I’ll have pics of all this later.
Thanks a lot!
-p
Deep Playa, #152 http://www.DeepPlaya.com_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
I replaced the fuel gauge when I first bought my boat. Bought the
replacement gauge at a small West Marine, right off the shelf, It matched
perfectly the original, broken gauge I was replacing and cost, like, $15.
While I had the gauge out I suctioned the forward-end sump of the (full)
tank to check for accumulated water & sludge – there was none – and replaced
the old, scratched lens in the viewing port with either Lexan or acrylic,
whichever one is supposed to be most scratch-resistant. Now, nearly 4 years
later, I can still read the fuel gauge without lying down, but I usually do
use a flashlight to see it easily.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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When I got Pelican, the gauge was unreadable – At a local marine store I got
the replacement gauge part (it’s the 50 cent piece sized puck on top) and
hey Presto! Just like new. The PO put a light in there that is on when the
instruments are on so there’s no need for a flashlight. It’s a real small
bulb on a stick wedged into the wiring harness that runs aft. Crude, but it
works.Bob
On Wed, Aug 25, 2010 at 7:50 AM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:I replaced the fuel gauge when I first bought my boat. Bought the
replacement gauge at a small West Marine, right off the shelf, It matched
perfectly the original, broken gauge I was replacing and cost, like, $15.
While I had the gauge out I suctioned the forward-end sump of the (full)
tank to check for accumulated water & sludge – there was none – and
replaced
the old, scratched lens in the viewing port with either Lexan or acrylic,
whichever one is supposed to be most scratch-resistant. Now, nearly 4 years
later, I can still read the fuel gauge without lying down, but I usually do
use a flashlight to see it easily.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
I have a Tank Tender on my boat and just added a probe to the new fuel
tank under the cockpit sole. What I like about this is that it uses no
electricity and is dead accurate (inches of diesel).It would be easy to make your own “tank tender” for much less than they
sell them for but I have yet to find a gauge that is measured in both
inches of diesel and inches of water. (an inch of diesel = 0.6 inches
of water, so the calculation is easy anyway, just like converting Km to
miles).Pete
On 8/25/2010 12:04 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
I do have the original tank (no leaks yet) and I’m going to replace the
gauge with a sender which I can at least attach a remote gauge to or hook
into my NMEA 2000 network. Laying on the cockpit floor, putting water on the
scratched up viewing glass and using a flashlight is not my idea of a good
time.Thanks Rich and John for the pics. Richard I measured my tank at 24″ where
the gauge was and you had your’s made 1″ less deep at 23″ was it also an 1″
less deep at 17″ in the aft end (looking at your PDF drawing.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/fuelTank.pdf) such that the original
tank was 18″?I think with this info I’ll be able to pick my sender and get it calibrated
properly.Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 7:38 PM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
If you have the original tank, I might still have the gauge from my old
tank if that will help you out.Pete
On 8/24/2010 7:34 PM, Patrick_Seattle wrote:
I’m replying to this old thread where I figured out my fuel tank gauge
didn’t work. https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=832I pulled it out today. I love having the right tool and I did not. I had
to borrow a longer screwdriver so now I know need to buy one of those!Anyway, the unit is of the kind with the arm that floats off to one side.
The initial tube is 12″ long with a fulcrum and the float arm is 11-1/4″
long. The dial says Rochester Gauges http://www.rochestergauges.com/ Dial
No. 5-601 (not listed there shocking).The tank is 24″ deep at the point of the gauge. Can anyone validate my
assumption that the tank is indeed just a rectangular box and even on the
bottom? Just wanted to double check because that will affect the sender I
buy as they come in lengths.You know me, I’ll have pics of all this later.
Thanks a lot!
-p
Deep Playa, #152 http://www.DeepPlaya.com_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Here’s one of those promised pics of the fuel gauge removed
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4927667684/-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Aug 25, 2010 at 6:57 AM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
I have a Tank Tender on my boat and just added a probe to the new fuel
tank under the cockpit sole. What I like about this is that it uses no
electricity and is dead accurate (inches of diesel).It would be easy to make your own “tank tender” for much less than they
sell them for but I have yet to find a gauge that is measured in both inches
of diesel and inches of water. (an inch of diesel = 0.6 inches of water, so
the calculation is easy anyway, just like converting Km to miles).Pete
On 8/25/2010 12:04 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
I do have the original tank (no leaks yet) and I’m going to replace the
gauge with a sender which I can at least attach a remote gauge to or hook
into my NMEA 2000 network. Laying on the cockpit floor, putting water on
the
scratched up viewing glass and using a flashlight is not my idea of a good
time.Thanks Rich and John for the pics. Richard I measured my tank at 24″ where
the gauge was and you had your’s made 1″ less deep at 23″ was it also an
1″
less deep at 17″ in the aft end (looking at your PDF drawing.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/fuelTank.pdf) such that the
original
tank was 18″?I think with this info I’ll be able to pick my sender and get it
calibrated
properly.Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 7:38 PM, Pete Dubler<>
wrote:If you have the original tank, I might still have the gauge from my old
tank if that will help you out.
Pete
On 8/24/2010 7:34 PM, Patrick_Seattle wrote:
I’m replying to this old thread where I figured out my fuel tank gauge
didn’t work. https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=832
I pulled it out today. I love having the right tool and I did not. I had
to borrow a longer screwdriver so now I know need to buy one of those!Anyway, the unit is of the kind with the arm that floats off to one
side.
The initial tube is 12″ long with a fulcrum and the float arm is 11-1/4″
long. The dial says Rochester Gauges http://www.rochestergauges.com/Dial
No. 5-601 (not listed there shocking).The tank is 24″ deep at the point of the gauge. Can anyone validate my
assumption that the tank is indeed just a rectangular box and even on
the
bottom? Just wanted to double check because that will affect the sender
I
buy as they come in lengths.You know me, I’ll have pics of all this later.
Thanks a lot!
-p
Deep Playa, #152 http://www.DeepPlaya.com_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
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