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need to replace the antifreeze in the old W58– anyone have a source for good prices on full strength antifreeze(ethyl glycol)?
I know last year Walmart had a great price, but so far this year their price is $9 per gallon. Maybe that’s good today??
If anyone needs 2 cycle oil for an outboard Sam’s Club has the Penzoil Premium TCW-3 oil for under $8. per gallon– this is a great buy!
Rodd
Windseeker
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I am in the middle of painting my deck and coach top. In the process I had to remove the blue Pearson Yachts insignia. Before I did that, I took several pictures of the logo and a ruler to get the correct size. I e-mailed the pictures to my local sign shop and had them make two transfers. I picked these up yesterday and they look very good. The color is spot on and the logo looks much better than the logos I removed during the sanding process.
If anyone is interested in a pair of these let me know and I’ll have some more made. These cost $5 for each logo and that is what I’ll send them to you. I’ll eat the postage.Lee
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I've been using the green stuff for years. It's supposed to be for any engine, any metal. When the W58 was built, the red stuff didn't exist. Moreover, there are still issues reported of coagulation if you mix the two in the process of changing from one to the other.
Bob
On Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 10:53 AM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Extended life, silicate free, red (diesel rated) is what the majority of the manufactures specify.
Chuck
On Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 8:48 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Be sure that the stuff is approved for aluminum.
Quent—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Yes, please, may I have two? I'll include postage – there's no reason for you to eat it.
Bob
On Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 11:38 AM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I am in the middle of painting my deck and coach top. In the process I had to remove the blue Pearson Yachts insignia. Before I did that, I took several pictures of the logo and a ruler to get the correct size. I e-mailed the pictures to my local sign shop and had them make two transfers. I picked these up yesterday and they look very good. The color is spot on and the logo looks much better than the logos I removed during the sanding process.
If anyone is interested in a pair of these let me know and I'll have some more made. These cost $5 for each logo and that is what I'll send them to you. I'll eat the postage.Lee
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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This was one of the questions when I asked Marcus at Trans Atlantic Diesel I just didn’t like the response. He said that any of the Dex cool products would be OK. When I did some research on Dex cool it apparently turns to Jell-O if it is mixed with anything other than distilled water. When I asked if that was what was in the system when he sold I to me he replied that I should flush the system because he couldn’t guarantee what was in the engine when it was shipped. So I called Cummins and the only coolant they would recommend is their premixed coolant. It is not too expensive and I decided to go with that just to be safe.
Just be careful not to mix different types, although there are some on the market that say they can be mixed. Seems like I remember a time when you just put in antifreeze green of course.Linus
<.. snip>
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Hi Linus,
I don't know how old your engine is – newer engines usually use a new version of the red stuff that is good for all engines. The major brands say the mix with anything. I suspect that all it is is coloring. Frankly, I know my engine came with the green stuff so regardless of what Westerbeke uses now, I'll continue with the green stuff. If your engine has red stuff in it now, go with that. If it has green, go with that.
Probably the Dex products are ok. Since the Cummins stuff isn't too expensive (and I wouldn't expect it to be – after all, not using it doesn't void the warranty and Cummins engines are by no means exclusive to the marine industry) that really is your best bet.
I'm old school – green means antifreeze, red means automatic transmission fluid, blue means window fluid, black or amber (ha!) means engine oil, and really smelly means rear end oil or transmission oil (90 weight).
I suppose progress is unavoidable. Except when you put red antifreeze in the transmission….
Bob
On Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 12:00 PM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:This was one of the questions when I asked Marcus at Trans Atlantic Diesel I just didn't like the response. He said that any of the Dex cool products would be OK. When I did some research on Dex cool it apparently turns to Jell-O if it is mixed with anything other than distilled water. When I asked if that was what was in the system when he sold I to me he replied that I should flush the system because he couldn't guarantee what was in the engine when it was shipped. So I called Cummins and the only coolant they would recommend is their premixed coolant. It is not too expensive and I decided to go with that just to be safe.
Just be careful not to mix different types, although there are some on the market that say they can be mixed. Seems like I remember a time when you just put in antifreeze green of course.
Linus<.. snip>
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I agree Bob- I’ve had the W58 for 14 years now and always used the green, usually Prestone. I change it out religiously every 3 years.
What I’m looking for now is the cheapest I can find to do my winterization–engine, and heads, and A/C. I need about 7 gallons of the full strength to do this.
Thanks for the responses!
Rodd
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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For winterization, I assume you mean the salt water side of the engine.
I use the red RV antifreeze for this and I dilute it 50/50 with water.For the engine, I open the top of the intake strainer and, with the
engine running, poor in a few gallons (have the diluted gallon jugs open
and lined up ready to pour). When my assistant tells me the exhaust
water runs redish, I spray the fogging oil in the air intake and then
kill the engine. done!For the domestic water system, after draining and bypassing the hot
water heater and draining (pumping out the water tanks), I have port on
the water tank selection manifold for a hose to go into a gallon of the
diluted RV antifreeze. I then pump this through to all the faucets, the
head, and shower head. Wipe any left around the drains with a paper
towel to avoid a sticky residue next spring, done!Pete
Rodd Leeds wrote:
Quote:I agree Bob- I’ve had the W58 for 14 years now and always used the
green, usually Prestone. I change it out religiously every 3 years.What I’m looking for now is the cheapest I can find to do my
winterization–engine, and heads, and A/C. I need about 7 gallons of
the full strength to do this.Thanks for the responses!
Rodd
Original Message
*<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Ok, first, I hate the taste of that pink/red antifreeze and it doesn't go away until the summer is almost over. So first, read this: http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com/2006/11/close-enough-to-anniversary.html
Winterizing should take you about an hour for all the systems including the potable water system. You need only enough of the RV antifreeze to do the raw water side of the engine and the salt water intakes for the head, watermaker if you have one, and salt water foot pump.
You will need a small compressor and a specialized fitting for the dockside water intake that you can make from Home Depot parts. “What?”, you say, “I don't have no stinkin' dockside water fitting!”
That's ok – you're going to put a 'T' in the potable water system anyway then.
So here goes:
For the engine's intake I put a 'T' between the thru-hull and the strainer. It takes about 2 gallons to fill the whole system including the strainer, all the coolers, hoses and exhaust lift. The 'T' has a valve and length of hose that I can comfortably put in a bucket. This 'T' is also used to wash down the bilge. How about that? Pour antifreeze in the bucket, put the hose in the bucket, close the thruhull, open the 'T' valve, start the engine, run enough antifreeze to make the exhaust water red or pink, stop engine either with fogger or by turning off. Here's the real trick – wipe off the end of the hose, blow in it and at the same time open the thruhull. When air is bubbling outside the hull, close the thruhull. Boats sink because thruhulls freeze and thaw leaving a big hole. When you fill the valve with air, problem is solved.
I put a manifold in for my other saltwater intakes. I have a hose and a valve to that manifold so I can put it in the bucket, add antifreeze, do the foot pump thing until pink, pump the head until pink, make sure the watermaker has antifreeze to the filter. Do the same thing with the thruhull – close it to pump pink stuff through, open it and blow the manifold down and bubbles out the valve – close the valve. You may need to use the compressor for this – but it won't take but a second. For the head, don't forget the outlets – make sure you put a gallon or so in the head and then pump it overboard. Close the overboard valve.
Drain water tanks to bilge – I do this by installing a 'T' where the foot pump suction is and siphoning the tanks one by one into the bilge. You can pump if you like.
When the tanks are drained, leave that 'T' open, pump the foot pump until mostly air comes out. Open any faucet – let the electric pump run until it's pumping air. You'll know because the sound changes and because water stops coming out.
Turn off pump, close 'T'.
Finally – if you have a shore side water connector, connect the compressor to it with your special fitting (male hose connector, bushing, compressed air male connector). Make sure the compressor is set to less than about 50 pounds! Starting from the farthest hot water faucet, open and let run until it's only air – then go to the next hot water, and so on. On Pelican, that's the 'V' berth, then the cockpit shower, then the head, and finally the galley sink and sprayer. Do the same with the cold water.
The last thing are the sink drains – first – close off the thruhull. Fill the sink with several cups of antifreeze. Open the valve and let the sink drain but not below the bottom. Close the valve. If you do have a the compressor, you can also blow the sink drains down and close the valves. Either way is fine.
I've used this method in brackish and fresh water and also salt water – never had a burst pipe or water heater. As long as ice has a place to go, you can't break anything. It's only when confined that you have problems. Samething goes for gunpowder, really.
What I've found is that the first year takes several hours to set up if the previous owner didn't – after that it really is only an hour to do the whole boat. Even easier if on land because thruhulls drain…
BobPS – I don't recommend diluting the RV antifreeze. But that's a personal preference. If you're sure you won't experience 0 degree F weather for more than a day or so, do it. If not, the stuff is not that expensive, especially at WM.
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Lee
I'll take four (4)….
Rick
EclipseOn Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 11:38 AM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I am in the middle of painting my deck and coach top. In the process I had to remove the blue Pearson Yachts insignia. Before I did that, I took several pictures of the logo and a ruler to get the correct size. I e-mailed the pictures to my local sign shop and had them make two transfers. I picked these up yesterday and they look very good. The color is spot on and the logo looks much better than the logos I removed during the sanding process.
If anyone is interested in a pair of these let me know and I'll have some more made. These cost $5 for each logo and that is what I'll send them to you. I'll eat the postage.Lee
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