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Hi All:
I can’t find the photos of converting the engine cover to three sections. Help.
!’m going to remove the engine for gaskets and re painting. I plan to scrape off the thirty years of oil leaking into the engine pan & bilge.
I also plan to start drinking again just as soon as I get started with the project!
Much Appreciated / Jack “MOJO”
Oriental, NCCalico Jack
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Jack,
Several owners have made that modification. I think the first was Hal
Sutphen, when he owned Sea Duty. Here is a link to the web page I created
for the project on Sarah.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewEngineBox.htmRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Dec 10, 2012 at 7:11 AM, calicojack wrote:
Hi All:
I can’t find the photos of converting the engine cover to three sections.
Help.
!’m going to remove the engine for gaskets and re painting. I plan to
scrape off the thirty years of oil leaking into the engine pan & bilge.
I also plan to start drinking again just as soon as I get started with the
project!
Much Appreciated / Jack “MOJO”
Oriental, NC_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Picture attached.
removable hinges attach each board the bulkhead. The vertical panel on
the blukhead over the engine also hinges up.I had to modify after I widened the bed since the front could no longer
fold down to the sole. It is now just a removable panel and all of the
latches are not on the front instead of the two on the sides.Pete
On 12/10/2012 5:11 AM, calicojack wrote:
Hi All:
I can’t find the photos of converting the engine cover to three sections. Help.
!’m going to remove the engine for gaskets and re painting. I plan to scrape off the thirty years of oil leaking into the engine pan & bilge.
I also plan to start drinking again just as soon as I get started with the project!
Much Appreciated / Jack “MOJO”
Oriental, NC_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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hey Chuck-
I am doing a cutlass bearing, shaft check, new stuffing box hose and repack,
etc., and I am curious how to do the alignment of the engine to v-drive,
then v-drive to prop shaft. Any help or photos would be appreciated.Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214
Original Message
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Hi Rodd,
Between the engine and v-drive there is essentially no alignment. The
universal joints on the jack shaft take care of that within reason.The more important alignment is the main shaft and the v-drive. That is
done by adjusting the v-drive mounts to make the faces of the coupling
parallel and in line.And with that, in line is the most important. If the two shafts are not in
line, the main shaft end will described a circle making vibration really
evident. The faces can be out of parallel by a few thousandths and the
shaft will flex. The result will be a worn out cutlass bearing.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 11, 2012 12:09 PM, “Rodd Leeds” wrote:Quote:hey Chuck-I am doing a cutlass bearing, shaft check, new stuffing box hose and
repack, etc., and I am curious how to do the alignment of the engine to
v-drive, then v-drive to prop shaft. Any help or photos would be
appreciated.Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214
Original Message
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Rodd, the Walter instructions are very helpful and should be followed.
You align the V-drive to the output shaft with no input shaft in place. This isn’t as easy as it would appear as the flange arrangement on each side of the v-drive sags when you loosen it to allow for adjustment. I spent 4-5 hours messing with it and still think I could have gotten the tolerances tighter. I think I’m within about three thousands of an inch variance from one side to another but access in there is so tough it’s really hard to tell.
When that is set you install the input shaft and measure the distance between the mating flange (usually just forward of the shaft brake) and the bores on the universal joint. There should be no more than an 1/8th of an inch difference between all 4. This is adjusted by moving the engine on its mounts.
It’s a royal pain to set up. If you can get somebody to do it for 2-3 hours labor it’s well worth it.
If you don’t have a copy of the Walter instructions Pete has them at his website
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals
Chuck
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thanks Chuck! very good info. will tackle this job in the spring!!
Rodd
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