Forums › General Discussion › Engine Instruments
- This topic has 3 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 17 years, 3 months ago by
RichCarter.
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July 16, 2009 at 7:45 pm #67602
Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorHey Rich, what’s up with that super sexy NASA looking engine instrumentation you got going on? Did you do a custom job? What are the indicator lights for?
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/binnacleJPG.jpg-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
July 17, 2009 at 2:23 pm #73253
RichCarterParticipantPatrick
The whole story is here.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Call if you have questions.
Regards
Rich 603-493-3330Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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July 17, 2009 at 5:46 pm #73256
john stevensonParticipantRich,
Thanks for reposting your instrument panel solution. It reminded me to start work on fixing the problems you avoided.I had the panel put on the bridgedeck in the same place as the Westerbecke panel. I have the C-Type panel with the Oil Pressure and Water Temp guages.
The first problem I encountered was having a key standing proud of the bridge deck when under power. It's in a perfect place to be stepped on. Fortunately I have not stepped on it with enough force to break either the key or the switch, but I have brushed against it and unknowingly turned off the panel.
Then the flimsy meter mounts on the panel. Just small fender washers over small ridges in the meter bodies. We did manage to kick the Oil Pressure meter back out of the panel one night.
A few months ago my tach started going bonkers. The needle would swing all the way to the far peg and the hour meter appears to be running backwards. Happens at different times, but if I run the engine long enough it always happens. The only way to clear the problem is to shut down the engine and turn off the panel, then restart the engine. Just turning off the panel will not clear the problem.
I would think this is a loose wire or a problem in the Stator sender from the alternator. I can find no wiring problems, but the wiring diagram Yanmar provides with the owner's manual are barely readable and pretty much useless.
My short term solution for the key is to file off the key way on the top of the key body. That appears to hold the key in the switch. My plan would be to start the engine, then remove the key. The long term solution is the replace the key switch with an on/off and momentary start switch, similar to what Rich did. I think I can put both switches in the place on the panel now occupied by the key switch. it means I'll also have to repace the stop switch as it is integrated into the key switch housing.
I will probably just recess the panel into the bridge deck and put an acrylic cover over it.
I'm waiting on guidance from Yanmar tech support on the tach issue.
The instrument panel is one of the boat projects that I must complete before resuming cruising.
On Fri, Jul 17, 2009 at 10:23 AM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Patrick
The whole story is here.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/
Call if you have questions.
Regards
Rich 603-493-3330Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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July 18, 2009 at 1:06 am #73258
RichCarterParticipantGood luck with the instrument panel. It was a challenge for me, and I have a degree in electrical engineering. The Yanmar key is useless. They make only two keys for all their engines. If you lose your key, you have a 50/50 chance that your buddies key will fit. If it doesn’t, a pair of needle-nose plier will work. Their engine alarm is useless, and they provide no option for a fuel gauge. Other than that, their gauges are great. BTW, they are supposed to be water tight, so the lexan cover over the instruments is not needed.
I wish I could get my hour meter on my body to work backwards. Sounds like you’ve got a bad ground wire to your instrument panel.
Regards
Rich
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