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    • #68902
      cstewart
      Participant

      Contrary to popular belief, the Pearson 424 is not a tug. Last week at the Dauphin Island race 2014, two 424s performed quite well in their fleet. Adam on OnCall placed 2nd in his fleet racing PHRF and I placed first in my fleet racing Portsmouth. Most of the race, 18 miles, was to windward and OneEighty (hull 54) was pointing very well once the winds got up to 8-14 knots. I was able to point higher than a Catalina 36, an irwin 32 and a Freedom 40 that I was running with and I think I was able to point so high because of my full battened main and mizzen and with a flat (not stretched out) 135 genoa. I’m convinced that modern sails on our boats make them perform better than Bill Shaw could imagine. Six other Pearsons, non 424s placed in the Portsmouth class and 5 placed in PHRF.
      It was god to see our old girls do so well.

    • #80905
      Anonymous

      I agree with your assessment, in my division during 6 Harvest Moon races from Galveston to Port Aransas, Whiffler came in first once, second 4 times, and third once. With 15+ knots of wind, the 454 is a respectable competitor.

      Steve


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    • #80906
      Tor
      Participant

      I’m delighted to hear the 424’s are performing so well
      against other designs. I like Silverheels’ overall
      characteristics. She’s a comfortable Caribbean cruiser,
      but an indifferent sailor to windward. This in spite of
      1-year-old sails, including fully battened main &
      mizzen, which I believe I do know how to trim properly.
      It’s all she can do to tack in 110° plus 5° leeway for
      120° made good (i.e., 60° COG either side of the wind).
      Pinching higher slows her down too much. I’m having the
      genoa re-cut now – the loft screwed up the leech shape.
      Perhaps that will improve things.

      How do these angles compare to your 424’s performance?

      Tor


      Silverheels, P-424 #17
      http://www.silverheels.us


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    • #80907
      Anonymous

      Whiffler’s sails are not new, but both the main and mizzen are both with full battens. With the 150 Genoa I typically can make good to windward +/-60 deg relative. Pulling in tighter slows the boat. Someday, if I get new sails, I will be interested if I can get tighter to the wind.


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    • #80908
      cstewart
      Participant

      Tor, I feel like I was sailing 45 degrees off the wind tacking on 90. I know that sounds unreal but we were out-sailing some pointing type boats. My old Pearson 323 never got close to that. Yes, I did slow down the more I pinched, but I kept looking for that happy medium. The age old question still persists: is it better to lay off the line for more speed or go for fewer tacks? I’m not that good a tactition to know the answer. I just got lucky.

    • #80909
      Tor
      Participant

      I know less about racing than the proverbial tortoise,
      Charlie, but I believe the magic balance you’re looking
      for is (or used to be) called VMG, velocity made good.
      I saw it once on an instrument gauge on a boat I
      delivered a million years ago.

      I’ve always considered pointing 45° to the true wind,
      i.e., tacking in 90°, to be about average for a
      cruising-type sailboat in moderate conditions. Ditto
      for making an additional 5° leeway, so that the TMG
      (Tack Made Good – I just made that up) is 100°. That’s
      a bit better than Silverheels manages if I want to keep
      her speed up, and I feel like she should be pointing
      better – higher – than she does. I’d be interested to
      know how others fare in that regard.

      Tor


      Silverheels, P-424 #17
      http://www.silverheels.us


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    • #80910
      unabated
      Participant

      Not only are you slowing down by pinching, there’s a heck of a lot more leeway on that boat. also the boat is very slow to tack so the less tacks the better.
      Unless of course you got one hell of a wind then All bets are off.

      Sent from my iPhone

      On May 8, 2014, at 5:57 PM, “cstewart” wrote:

      Tor, I feel like I was sailing 45 degrees off the wind tacking on 90. I know that sounds unreal but we were out-sailing some pointing type boats. My old Pearson 323 never got close to that. Yes, I did slow down the more I pinched, but I kept looking for that happy medium. The age old question still persists: is it better to lay off the line for more speed or go for fewer tacks? I’m not that good a tactition to know the answer. I just got lucky.


      "People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
      Andre Gide 1869-1951

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    • #80917
      RichCarter
      Participant

      BlackSheep makes 90 deg across the bottom on a tack, a bit better if there’s enough wind to heel her over. When a mark is precisely 90 degrees off my beam, I can tack over and clear it at best VMG. I usually give one or two extra boat lengths before tacking for maneuvering room around the mark.

      It’s taken me many years and several boat units to get this performance. When I first started racing, I’d be dogmeat if someone came in on my leeward rail. I’d have to tack over to keep from being pinched up. Now the rest of the boats stay out of my lee. There’s no wind there and they can’t out point me.

      A good suit of sails helps as does proper sail trim. The biggest improvement came with a backstay adjuster. You just can’t get enough tension in the headstay to pull the belly out of the headsail without it. If you try to tighten the turnbuckles enough to trim the sails, you’ll gall the treads. You need about 3000 lbs in 10kts of wind (true), more if it picks up.

      I can get a bit of bend in the mast but it’s not much. I adjust the traveler to put the boom about amidship and tension the clew to pull as much belly out of the main as possible. I don’t use a cunningham but I’m considering it.

      If you have the ketch model, there is little that can be done to tension the forestay. If someone figures out a method, I’m sure that owners would be interested to hear. If you have a sloop or cutter, a hydrolic backstay tensioner is suggested. The transom chainplate and transom need reinforcement however.
      http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/TransomChainPlate/

      Rich


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    • #80919
      Tor
      Participant

      Excellent info, Rich. Thanks.

      I changed the original split main backstay to a double backstay when I re-rigged the boat, but still don’t see a way to tension it to the extent you suggest. Sounds like I’ll just have to accept tacking in 100° with my ketch rig.

      Tor


      Silverheels, P-424 #17
      http://www.silverheels.us


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    • #80920
      Tor
      Participant

      In 110°, that is.

      Quote:

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    • #80921
      RichCarter
      Participant

      Tor
      I can probably outpoint you but the ketch looks cooler. The sloop kind of looks funny with the short rig placed up forward.

      Rich


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    • #80922
      madsailor
      Moderator

      You can tension the split backstay with a block running on each side
      connected together with a third block with a becket on a loop of dyneema or
      amsteel line. Then you have a block down on one side of the split so that
      when you tension the line it actually squeezes the backstays together.

      But I’d be leery of putting too much tension on it.

      Bob

      On Fri, May 9, 2014 at 4:21 PM, wrote:

      Quote:
      Tor
      I can probably outpoint you but the ketch looks cooler. The sloop kind of
      looks funny with the short rig placed up forward.

      Rich


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    • #80924
      Tor
      Participant

      I’d rather Silverheels could point like your sloop, Rich, but there are other compensations to having a mizzen sail. In the end it seems everything about boats – and maybe about life, for that matter – is a compromise.

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    • #80925
      Tor
      Participant

      I’ve seen that rig, Bob, and certainly it must help, perhaps a lot. Not sure if I could manage it on my double backstays, as wide apart as they are. It’s something to look into, however.

      Tor

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    • #80926
      Tor
      Participant

      I don’t suppose you (or anyone here) has a sketch of that configuration…

      Tor

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    • #80927
      Tor
      Participant

      Bob,

      You wrote, “use a loop of amsteel to link all three blocks together…” What are you describing here? Is this a way to tension split or double backstays? Can you sketch the general idea of how it assembles? If there’s a way to get Silverheels to point 10° higher I’d like to employ it.

      Thanks,

      Tor

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    • #80929
      Tor
      Participant

      Thanks, Bob. I thought that’s what you meant. I’ve seen it used on small race boats. I suppose it would make sense to use double-purchase blocks to bend a mast as stout as a 424’s.

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    • #80930
      Anonymous

      Bob et al,

      Sounds like a neat idea. My only concern would be that you would be
      changing the direction of load from the stays to the chainplates from
      the design. Do you think that that would be a problem?

      Dave

      On 5/10/14, 7:32 AM, Robert Fine wrote:

      Quote:
      This is just a quick drawing, but you’ll get the idea.

      Bob

      On Sat, May 10, 2014 at 7:46 AM, Silverheels wrote:

      Quote:
      Bob,

      You wrote, “use a loop of amsteel to link all three blocks together…” What
      are you describing here? Is this a way to tension split or double
      backstays? Can you sketch the general idea of how it assembles? If there’s
      a way to get Silverheels to point 10° higher I’d like to employ it.

      Thanks,

      Tor

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    • #80934
      unabated
      Participant

      Lots of boats use a device to bend the mast. On a 424 I doubt your going to bend mast too much. More like just tension the forestay. Pulling the whole rig back.
      Alan

      Sent from my iPhone

      Quote:
      On May 10, 2014, at 9:23 AM, dave jones wrote:

      Bob et al,

      Sounds like a neat idea. My only concern would be that you would be changing the direction of load from the stays to the chainplates from the design. Do you think that that would be a problem?

      Dave

      Quote:
      On 5/10/14, 7:32 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
      This is just a quick drawing, but you’ll get the idea.

      Bob

      Quote:
      On Sat, May 10, 2014 at 7:46 AM, Silverheels wrote:

      Bob,

      You wrote, “use a loop of amsteel to link all three blocks together…” What
      are you describing here? Is this a way to tension split or double
      backstays? Can you sketch the general idea of how it assembles? If there’s
      a way to get Silverheels to point 10° higher I’d like to employ it.

      Thanks,

      Tor

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    • #80944
      cstewart
      Participant

      Regarding backstay adjuster, I have tried to figure a way to do that with the Ketch rig. I guess you could put two pulleys on the split backstay and when you put tension on them, it would tend to rake the main mast some. Of course the mizzen and main mast are attached at the top (whatever that thing is called) so the mizzen would be affected. I believe it would help pointing if you moved it just ever so slightly enough to take the slack out of the forestay/genoa. I do move the main sheet traveler to windward all the way to line up with the right side of the companionway. Then I put a cheater block on the mizzen sheet to move it to windward also. That seems to help. You can then let the sheets out a tad to keep it from pinching, yet still keep your sails full. When my sloopy friends ask if the mizzen does any good I tell them it is like having a Catalina 22 behind me pushing.
      Charlie

    • #80946
      madsailor
      Moderator

      It’s called a triatic stay. I forgot about that…

      Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
      phone.
      On May 13, 2014 3:46 PM, “cstewart” wrote:

      Regarding backstay adjuster, I have tried to figure a way to do that with
      the Ketch rig. I guess you could put two pulleys on the split backstay and
      when you put tension on them, it would tend to rake the main mast some. Of
      course the mizzen and main mast are attached at the top (whatever that
      thing is called) so the mizzen would be affected. I believe it would help
      pointing if you moved it just ever so slightly enough to take the slack out
      of the forestay/genoa. I do move the main sheet traveler to windward all
      the way to line up with the right side of the companionway. Then I put a
      cheater block on the mizzen sheet to move it to windward also. That seems
      to help. You can then let the sheets out a tad to keep it from pinching,
      yet still keep your sails full. When my sloopy friends ask if the mizzen
      does any good I tell them it is like having a Catalina 22 behind me pushing.
      Charlie


      "People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
      sight of the shore."
      Andre Gide 1869-1951

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