Force 10 (Kuma) Water Heater – Temperature Control Valve

[Paul Lefebvre]

I see that Force 10 has a TCV available for their units that re-directs the
engine coolant once the water temperature is 140F. Have these typically been
installed with a new heater. While I assume that you want to get as much
free hot water as you can, I was wondering if the temperature can get to hot
when you motor all day for that plastic tubing that Pearson installed for
the water lines.

Thanks,
Paul

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[madsailor]

Hi Paul,

The water tubing is actually not marine tubing – it's used in homes for domestic hot water and for radiant floor heating, both of which can be hotter than 140 degrees. The fittings, however, should be replaced whenever you break one (the plastic ones, not the metal ones). Typically, I've replaced 50% of mine and out of those, more than half had the metal ring in backwards…

Bob

On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 3:02 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I see that Force 10 has a TCV available for their units that re-directs the engine coolant once the water temperature is 140F. Have these typically been installed with a new heater. While I assume that you want to get as much free hot water as you can, I was wondering if the temperature can get to hot when you motor all day for that plastic tubing that Pearson installed for the water lines.

Thanks,
Paul

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Bob Fine
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[RichCarter]

Paul
I replaced my water heater last year with a force-10 heater and asked the
distributor about that option. I was told that there are reliablitly
problems with the diverter and it was suggested that I avoid it. In the
KISS tradition, I took his suggestion.

The problem with having the water heater setup with a heat exchanger is that
the water can get much hotter than you are used to with a domestic setup.
If the engine overheats, steam can be driven out of the water heater. I see
no practical alternative. In the event of an overheating condition, at
least you can start dumping hot water down the drain for a while.

Rich
BlackSheep #47

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[Anonymous]

Do you have the fittings made by parker? I’ve wondered if different fittings will fit the ‘stock’ tubing. Where do you get the fittings?

I have several that pop off every time the boat heels.

On 4/28/08 4:09 PM, Robert Fine wrote :

Hi Paul,

The water tubing is actually not marine tubing – it’s used in homes for domestic hot water and for radiant floor heating, both of which can be hotter than 140 degrees. The fittings, however, should be replaced whenever you break one (the plastic ones, not the metal ones). Typically, I’ve replaced 50% of mine and out of those, more than half had the metal ring in backwards…

Bob

On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 3:02 PM, Paul Lefebvre <> wrote:

I see that Force 10 has a TCV available for their units that re-directs the engine coolant once the water temperature is 140F. Have these typically been installed with a new heater. While I assume that you want to get as much free hot water as you can, I was wondering if the temperature can get to hot when you motor all day for that plastic tubing that Pearson installed for the water lines.

Thanks,
Paul

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[john stevenson]

Aaron,
Are you talking about the compression fittings for the pressure water system? They are available at Loew's, Home Depot and other hardware stores. The fittings are for 1/2″ OD hose – at least on my boat.

John

On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 9:25 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Do you have the fittings made by parker? I’ve wondered if different fittings will fit the ‘stock’ tubing. Where do you get the fittings?

I have several that pop off every time the boat heels.

On 4/28/08 4:09 PM, Robert Fine wrote :

Hi Paul,

The water tubing is actually not marine tubing – it's used in homes for domestic hot water and for radiant floor heating, both of which can be hotter than 140 degrees. The fittings, however, should be replaced whenever you break one (the plastic ones, not the metal ones). Typically, I've replaced 50% of mine and out of those, more than half had the metal ring in backwards…

Bob

On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 3:02 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I see that Force 10 has a TCV available for their units that re-directs the engine coolant once the water temperature is 140F. Have these typically been installed with a new heater. While I assume that you want to get as much free hot water as you can, I was wondering if the temperature can get to hot when you motor all day for that plastic tubing that Pearson installed for the water lines.

Thanks,
Paul

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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

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[Paul Lefebvre]

Thanks for the info. I will pass on the TCV for now and go with the standard
set-up. While looking into that locker last night, I noticed that I only had
a distribution header for my cold water. For the hot water, the 3 pieces of
tubing were just hanging loose. I take it the PO never had hot water for the
12 years he owned the boat.

Has anyone made up a different way to do the header other than the multiple
T’s and nipples that Pearson used. Is there a pre-made header of some sort
already out there, possibly used for radiant floor heating.

Paul

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[unabated]

Paul, What size heater are you putting in. I’ am
trying to decide if I can get the 11 gallon one in
there. I might have to cut away the corner of the
shelf to fit anything higher than a 16 in unit (round
unit. I’ll have to remove the trim to get it though
the opening.
alan

— Paul Lefebvre <> wrote:

Thanks for the info. I will pass on the TCV for now
and go with the standard
set-up. While looking into that locker last night, I
noticed that I only had
a distribution header for my cold water. For the hot
water, the 3 pieces of
tubing were just hanging loose. I take it the PO
never had hot water for the
12 years he owned the boat.

Has anyone made up a different way to do the header
other than the multiple
T’s and nipples that Pearson used. Is there a
pre-made header of some sort
already out there, possibly used for radiant floor
heating.

Paul

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[madsailor]

Hi Paul,

The brass header is probably the way to go, or you can make your own with the compression fitting 'T's and short sections of tubing. The only other way is to run the tubing along the floorboards and 'T' for the sink and shower, the galley sink, and finally end at the forward sink. That's the way a house would probably be plumbed. But with the header, all the fittings are in one place (I could tell you a story about why you want that – it's much easier to find a leak or a fitting that's blown off).

Whatever you do, though, get rid of the black fittings Pearson supplied. They leak.

Bob

On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 3:26 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Thanks for the info. I will pass on the TCV for now and go with the standard set-up. While looking into that locker last night, I noticed that I only had a distribution header for my cold water. For the hot water, the 3 pieces of tubing were just hanging loose. I take it the PO never had hot water for the 12 years he owned the boat.

Has anyone made up a different way to do the header other than the multiple T's and nipples that Pearson used. Is there a pre-made header of some sort already out there, possibly used for radiant floor heating.

Paul

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[Jack Clarke]

Hi Guys,
When we re-plumed Xanadu, we ran the hot and cold water to two manifolds under the floor board beside the fridge. Then we ran the respective lines to the various sinks and shower. The manifolds are available at Home Depot or any hardware supply stores.

Jack
Xanadu IV

On 4/29/08, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi Paul,

The brass header is probably the way to go, or you can make your own with the compression fitting 'T's and short sections of tubing. The only other way is to run the tubing along the floorboards and 'T' for the sink and shower, the galley sink, and finally end at the forward sink. That's the way a house would probably be plumbed. But with the header, all the fittings are in one place (I could tell you a story about why you want that – it's much easier to find a leak or a fitting that's blown off).

Whatever you do, though, get rid of the black fittings Pearson supplied. They leak.

Bob

On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 3:26 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Thanks for the info. I will pass on the TCV for now and go with the standard set-up. While looking into that locker last night, I noticed that I only had a distribution header for my cold water. For the hot water, the 3 pieces of tubing were just hanging loose. I take it the PO never had hot water for the 12 years he owned the boat.

Has anyone made up a different way to do the header other than the multiple T's and nipples that Pearson used. Is there a pre-made header of some sort already out there, possibly used for radiant floor heating.

Paul

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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

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[Paul Lefebvre]

Jack:

Were the manifolds made out of brass or some type of plastic.

Thanks,

Paul

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[quent]

There is a device called a tempering valve available at plumbing supply stores that mixes cold with hot water to reduce the temperature of the hot water at the faucet. We installed one at the hot water outlet of the water heater. It prevents the annoying sudden rise in temperature when someone else uses cold, and it also conserves the hot water supply.

Quent Kinderman
Clairebuoyant #132

[Author]

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