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Hey all,
How many of you have changed location of the ignition and gauges in the cockpit? Where to? Why? Are you happy with it? All your thoughts please!
Mine got moved to …standing at the helm looking forward, 2 inches off the sole of the cockpit to your right foots immediate right. That’s correct, way down in the bottom aft, starboard corner of the cockpit. I just about have to stand on my head and re-adjust my glasses to read engine hours.
The old recess in the forward bulkhead of the cockpit is still there and I’m still wondering why it got moved to where it did.
Any thoughts?
Ken
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Ken,
When I repowered I put the new Yanmar instrument panel in the old bridge
deck location and have regretted it. The main problems I’ve encountered:1. Brushing the ignition key with my foot when moving forward of the
mizzen. This turns off the alternator and the instruments. No damage, but
a nuisance. The Westerbecke panel did not have a key switch, so it was a
non-issue before. My workaround was to grind off the ridge on the Yanmar
key so I can remove the key when underway.
2. Accidentally kicking the instruments when stepping over the bridge
deck. The Yanmar instruments are held in place by a couple of small fender
washers and come loose easily. The Westerbecke panel was much more robust
– I’m sure I kicked it more than once..
3. Delamination of the decal on panel. This was primarily a weakness of
the piece of s–t panel supplied by Yanmar. It would have likely happened
any place in the cockpit exposed to the sun. My solution was a canvas
insert between the dodger and bimini to provide shade for the bridge deck.The instrument panel is still in the bridge deck because I have figured out
where else I would put it.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Sun, Oct 19, 2014 at 3:57 PM, Page Two via maillist <
> wrote:Hey all,
How many of you have changed location of the ignition and gauges in the
cockpit? Where to? Why? Are you happy with it? All your thoughts please!Mine got moved to …standing at the helm looking forward, 2 inches off
the sole of the cockpit to your right foots immediate right. That’s
correct, way down in the bottom aft, starboard corner of the cockpit. I
just about have to stand on my head and re-adjust my glasses to read engine
hours.The old recess in the forward bulkhead of the cockpit is still there and
I’m still wondering why it got moved to where it did.Any thoughts?
Ken
Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
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Hi All,
I have found that having the instruments and ignition key in one place and the engine kill control in another position (cockpit sole) a real pain.
We are going through a cockpit cleanup and removing poorly located equipment, and closing up the holes prior to a repaint of the decks & cockpit. There are two projects underway;
1) Relocate the engine instruments
2) Relocate the sailing instrumentsEngine Controls – I have made a new box with lid that will be located to the right of the helm which will be at seat level. This means that the controls will be above the cockpit flood level, and will incorporate the engine kill control (moving from position of the cockpit sole). It will also be easily viewable.
Instrument Pod – I have made a instrument pod that fits above the garage of the sliding hatch. The front will be 5mm black plexiglass on which the instruments will be mounted.
Both projects are still a WIP.
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117161376876600674340/albums/6072018607925958449
Cheers
Dennis
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Ken
There was a photo on line in the exterior photos that shows a cockpit table on the 424 site. The panel is located at the aft end of the seat back. That is where I plan to put mine some day. I tried making a mold to make a fiberglass panel like the original and failed. I found one at Overton’s with a plexi cover and plan to do this one day when I get a few days off (when I retire). There was a thread way back when I was asking for suggestions for what switches to locate there.Linus
Live by the currents, plan by the tides and follow the sun
On Oct 19, 2014, at 4:11 PM, John Stevenson via maillist wrote:
Ken,
When I repowered I put the new Yanmar instrument panel in the old bridge
deck location and have regretted it. The main problems I’ve encountered:1. Brushing the ignition key with my foot when moving forward of the
mizzen. This turns off the alternator and the instruments. No damage, but
a nuisance. The Westerbecke panel did not have a key switch, so it was a
non-issue before. My workaround was to grind off the ridge on the Yanmar
key so I can remove the key when underway.
2. Accidentally kicking the instruments when stepping over the bridge
deck. The Yanmar instruments are held in place by a couple of small fender
washers and come loose easily. The Westerbecke panel was much more robust
– I’m sure I kicked it more than once..
3. Delamination of the decal on panel. This was primarily a weakness of
the piece of s–t panel supplied by Yanmar. It would have likely happened
any place in the cockpit exposed to the sun. My solution was a canvas
insert between the dodger and bimini to provide shade for the bridge deck.The instrument panel is still in the bridge deck because I have figured out
where else I would put it.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Sun, Oct 19, 2014 at 3:57 PM, Page Two via maillist <
> wrote:Hey all,
How many of you have changed location of the ignition and gauges in the
cockpit? Where to? Why? Are you happy with it? All your thoughts please!Mine got moved to …standing at the helm looking forward, 2 inches off
the sole of the cockpit to your right foots immediate right. That’s
correct, way down in the bottom aft, starboard corner of the cockpit. I
just about have to stand on my head and re-adjust my glasses to read engine
hours.The old recess in the forward bulkhead of the cockpit is still there and
I’m still wondering why it got moved to where it did.Any thoughts?
Ken
Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Hi Guys
A while back Rich found a source of engine instrument pedestal pods that were leftover products from Catalina. They are white and made by Navpod. Mount on pedestal below compass behind wheel. Holes precut for tach, three 2″ ignition key switch, several switches and lights. Room for a couple more guages. Bought one but never mounted it. $100?
Quent -
John,
It sounds like you don’t have the clear plastic, top-hinged cover
that Silverheels came with to protect the bridge deck engine
instrument panel. From what you describe, that might alleviate
most of your problems there for the price of a slab of Plexiglas
and 2 hinges.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Sorry Ken the photo I was talking about is in misc stuff It is Lee Thurner’s Bristol finish picture. The engine panel is visible just over the table top.
Linus
Live by the currents, plan by the tides and follow the sun
On Oct 19, 2014, at 5:06 PM, Linus Martinez via maillist wrote:
Ken
There was a photo on line in the exterior photos that shows a cockpit table on the 424 site. The panel is located at the aft end of the seat back. That is where I plan to put mine some day. I tried making a mold to make a fiberglass panel like the original and failed. I found one at Overton’s with a plexi cover and plan to do this one day when I get a few days off (when I retire). There was a thread way back when I was asking for suggestions for what switches to locate there.Linus
Live by the currents, plan by the tides and follow the sun
On Oct 19, 2014, at 4:11 PM, John Stevenson via maillist wrote:
Ken,
When I repowered I put the new Yanmar instrument panel in the old bridge
deck location and have regretted it. The main problems I’ve encountered:1. Brushing the ignition key with my foot when moving forward of the
mizzen. This turns off the alternator and the instruments. No damage, but
a nuisance. The Westerbecke panel did not have a key switch, so it was a
non-issue before. My workaround was to grind off the ridge on the Yanmar
key so I can remove the key when underway.
2. Accidentally kicking the instruments when stepping over the bridge
deck. The Yanmar instruments are held in place by a couple of small fender
washers and come loose easily. The Westerbecke panel was much more robust
– I’m sure I kicked it more than once..
3. Delamination of the decal on panel. This was primarily a weakness of
the piece of s–t panel supplied by Yanmar. It would have likely happened
any place in the cockpit exposed to the sun. My solution was a canvas
insert between the dodger and bimini to provide shade for the bridge deck.The instrument panel is still in the bridge deck because I have figured out
where else I would put it.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Sun, Oct 19, 2014 at 3:57 PM, Page Two via maillist <
> wrote:Hey all,
How many of you have changed location of the ignition and gauges in the
cockpit? Where to? Why? Are you happy with it? All your thoughts please!Mine got moved to …standing at the helm looking forward, 2 inches off
the sole of the cockpit to your right foots immediate right. That’s
correct, way down in the bottom aft, starboard corner of the cockpit. I
just about have to stand on my head and re-adjust my glasses to read engine
hours.The old recess in the forward bulkhead of the cockpit is still there and
I’m still wondering why it got moved to where it did.Any thoughts?
Ken
Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
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I’ve seen the picture with it at seat level to starboard, but felt that might be a hindrance to ever get to the back end as my batteries are still in that hole.
The pod sounds pretty good but maybe more than I am willing to change and modify including wallet.
John, I still have the crappy old plexi glass cover that Tor mentions over my old location and I think I could without too much difficulty improve on the cover.
This is great guys, really appreciate the input.
Ken
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Re: Ignition and Engine Gages
Author:
LIke Tor, I still have the engine gauges in the original positon with the plexi cover. Â I did go wireless with Tack Tick for all the sailing info and mounted the display on a screw in the sail mizzen sail track below the boom. Â This is at perfect eye level height from the helm. Â I can simply lift the unit off the screw when I stow it. Â The screw can easily be removed whenever it’s necessary for maintenance.Â
Â
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Keehi Lagoon, O’ahu
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My 424 was built with a pull cable for the engine shutoff on the side of the cockpit in a recess near the helmsman’s right ankle. My new engine uses a solenoid for a shutoff activated by a button, no cable. When I repowered I put the engine on, start and stop buttons in this recess. I have no key, just a switch. I see no reason for a key and lots of reasons to avoid one. The switches work fine there. Having to run forward to start the engine was stupid. Pearson actually put the starter switch in the starboard lazarette with instructions to leave the locker open when powering. In an emergency, it’s easy to reach down to start the engine. I wish the panel were bigger so I could mount other switches like “running lights”.
The shutoff cable was a PIA. Every few years it needed to be replaced. If you still have a cable there you can retrofit an actuator to get rid of the thing. You mount the actuator on the side of your engine somewhere and make a linkage to the fuel shutoff lever on your fuel pump with a spring to return it to “run”. When you push a button in the cockpit, it causes the actuator to retract, pulling the lever to turn off your engine. I think this one will work. I put one of these on my old engine and fabricated brackets on the engine breaker panel to mount it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pull-Type-Open-Frame-Actuator-Electric-Solenoid-DC-12V-/231335564435?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35dcac9493I got rid of the plexiglass cover over the instrument panel. The new instruments are water tight. The cover just fogged up and made the instruments harder to read.
Having the instruments in the bridge deck is a bit inconvenient but it’s OK. My eyesight isn’t what it used to be so reading them from that distance can be difficult. I can read the tach with no problem, but the other gauges can be a challenge, particularly at night. Crew tends to sit in front of the instruments so they can obscure them. Just about anywhere else you might put them can be obscured by crew. The engine alarm rings if something is amiss however. The ideal position for these would be a pod on the binnacle but you’d need a big one just for the engine instruments. I wish someone made a retro-fit instrument panel for the binnacle that looked good and was large enough for my instrument cluster. I fabricated one from teak and mounted it above the compass but it’s not really ideal.
My notes are linked below. Using vinyl tape, I put a red stripe across the stop button and a green stripe across the start button. This is not shown in the photos. This works well. The pull switch for instrument power is not the best choice. It’s recessed, but someone can hit it and turn off the instruments. A toggle would have been a better choice.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Instruments.htmlHere’s another useful tip from my notes. I did this on my old engine but don’t need this any more because I have two alternators. There is a cheap and reliable way to make sure your engine will always start. Briefly, you put in a separate starter battery that does nothing but start your engine and keep it separated from your main power bus until after your engine starts.
Your alternator field has 6v on it when the engine is running. This is the wire that normally goes to your tach. You put a small 6v relay on this wire. Here’s a link to a suitable relay.
This isn’t strong enough to take the charge current to a battery. You use the small relay to energize a proper solenoid switch. Here’s a link to one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-VOLT-Solenoid-Relay-Switch-Continuous-Duty-Golf-Cart-/360407366657?hash=item53e9f3fc01&vxp=mtrYou put a separate starter battery (not deep-cycle) on your boat and only run your instrument panel and starter motor with this battery. You leave the alternator wired to your house bank but not the starter battery. You connect the starter battery to the house bank with the solenoid switch above. You of course need to grab a few battery cables and some hookup wire for the project, but the total cost is only about $200 including the new battery, cables and wire.
Rich
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Engine instruments in original location.
Start button in cockpit lower right.
Key/shutoff on stb sail locker.
Sail instruments over companionway (never Stand behind wheel long)
Chart plotter under dodger.
Alan
Unabated.Sent from my iPhone
Quote:On Oct 20, 2014, at 9:56 AM, “re.carter— via maillist” wrote:My 424 was built with a pull cable for the engine shutoff on the side of the cockpit in a recess near the helmsman’s right ankle. My new engine uses a solenoid for a shutoff activated by a button, no cable. When I repowered I put the engine on, start and stop buttons in this recess. I have no key, just a switch. I see no reason for a key and lots of reasons to avoid one. The switches work fine there. Having to run forward to start the engine was stupid. Pearson actually put the starter switch in the starboard lazarette with instructions to leave the locker open when powering. In an emergency, it’s easy to reach down to start the engine. I wish the panel were bigger so I could mount other switches like “running lights”.
The shutoff cable was a PIA. Every few years it needed to be replaced. If you still have a cable there you can retrofit an actuator to get rid of the thing. You mount the actuator on the side of your engine somewhere and make a linkage to the fuel shutoff lever on your fuel pump with a spring to return it to “run”. When you push a button in the cockpit, it causes the actuator to retract, pulling the lever to turn off your engine. I think this one will work. I put one of these on my old engine and fabricated brackets on the engine breaker panel to mount it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pull-Type-Open-Frame-Actuator-Electric-Solenoid-DC-12V-/231335564435?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35dcac9493I got rid of the plexiglass cover over the instrument panel. The new instruments are water tight. The cover just fogged up and made the instruments harder to read.
Having the instruments in the bridge deck is a bit inconvenient but it’s OK. My eyesight isn’t what it used to be so reading them from that distance can be difficult. I can read the tach with no problem, but the other gauges can be a challenge, particularly at night. Crew tends to sit in front of the instruments so they can obscure them. Just about anywhere else you might put them can be obscured by crew. The engine alarm rings if something is amiss however. The ideal position for these would be a pod on the binnacle but you’d need a big one just for the engine instruments. I wish someone made a retro-fit instrument panel for the binnacle that looked good and was large enough for my instrument cluster. I fabricated one from teak and mounted it above the compass but it’s not really ideal.
My notes are linked below. Using vinyl tape, I put a red stripe across the stop button and a green stripe across the start button. This is not shown in the photos. This works well. The pull switch for instrument power is not the best choice. It’s recessed, but someone can hit it and turn off the instruments. A toggle would have been a better choice.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Instruments.htmlHere’s another useful tip from my notes. I did this on my old engine but don’t need this any more because I have two alternators. There is a cheap and reliable way to make sure your engine will always start. Briefly, you put in a separate starter battery that does nothing but start your engine and keep it separated from your main power bus until after your engine starts.
Your alternator field has 6v on it when the engine is running. This is the wire that normally goes to your tach. You put a small 6v relay on this wire. Here’s a link to a suitable relay.
This isn’t strong enough to take the charge current to a battery. You use the small relay to energize a proper solenoid switch. Here’s a link to one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-VOLT-Solenoid-Relay-Switch-Continuous-Duty-Golf-Cart-/360407366657?hash=item53e9f3fc01&vxp=mtrYou put a separate starter battery (not deep-cycle) on your boat and only run your instrument panel and starter motor with this battery. You leave the alternator wired to your house bank but not the starter battery. You connect the starter battery to the house bank with the solenoid switch above. You of course need to grab a few battery cables and some hookup wire for the project, but the total cost is only about $200 including the new battery, cables and wire.
Rich
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Hi All,
I was googling about looking at instruments as I was considering having a separate rev counter in the instrument pod above the bridge deck when the following popped up;
This instrument is programmable with a variety of interfaces and looks pretty good. Only problem is that the rev counter input is NOT from the usual terminal on the alternator. It can probably be configured via one of the analogue inputs. All in all it looks pretty good.
Rich,
I have often considered adding a solenoid to kill the engine. I like the idea of only having only the “start” and “stop” in a panel close to the wheel.
This will result in reconsidering the planned panel I was working on. During this process I did consider placing all the engine instruments in the pod above the bridgedeck but the task of stripping the engine control panel was daunting. The current setup on the Volvo engine is a single plug for the engine control panel.
Back to the drawing board!
Cheers
Dennis
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Hi Dennis
A while back, I tried to get an F W Murphy product called MeCan which translates guage sender and tach data into j1939 CAN data to talk to my C-80 chartplotter that Raymarine said spoke J1939, and had an engine data screen. Never got it to display data. MeCan might work with the VeeCan.
Quent -
Hi Quent,
MeCan looks interesting.
Another option that I am considering is to interface the engine data to an Arduino. There are some interesting touch screen displays from 4D Systems that tie into the Arduino. The Arduino has quite a few analogue and digital IO.
I have visions of using the Arduino to measure a few other things i.e.
Gearbox temp.
Fridge Temp (& control) – the current thermostat is pretty rough.
etc etcThere is a chap out there who has developed a smart alternator regulator based on the Arduino (I have acquired one). He is at present developing a CAN system that will tie a MPPT controller (Solar panels) into the system. Link below.
http://smartbms.blogspot.co.nz/
Cheers
Dennis
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Hi Dennis
The idea of using arduino to control everything is interesting. I wonder however if this is robust enough for someone as software illiterate as myself, and if trusting one device to run everything is prudent.
We installed digital controls for our two Isotherm refrigeration systrms (Corel, rparts.com) fancy Balmar multistage voltage regulators for alternators, multiplexer integrating sailing instrument systems, a battery monitoring system, an autopilot servo, an instrument server, and a chartplotter/radar system. All are expensive (marine price!) stand alone devices. I’ve no illusions about these things not breaking, but I don’t think that they will all break at once.
Of course, something as simple as a loose alternator field wire can brick an expensive piece of gear’s soltware.
Quent -
I confess to being a bit on the traditional side of sailing and
prefer being the equipment interface on my boat. I tell the
autopilot or windvane where to steer, the fridge when to run and
the lights when to turn on & off. I monitor the boat’s heading,
the wind direction and strength, the battery and the bilge water
levels. I adjust the sail halyard tension and the solar panel
angle. Heck, sometimes I even steer the boat! Arrr, I am
SAILORMAN!K.I.S.S.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Good morning, Tor!
Thanks for making my point. One system running everything. Human controlled refrig produces copious quantities of cold beer, causing software failures in other other systems, including autopilot default to constant bearing, running lights defaulting to off status, and bilge alarm defaulting to mute. Common on powerboats, but not unknown on sailboats.
A good bilge alarm available at Harbor Freight less than $10. Delete “bilge”, insert “basement”…
Q -
Quent
Is this the alarm you mentioned? It looks like cheap insurance.
http://www.harborfreight.com/water-overflow-alarm-92334.htmlI put a small buzzer on my bilge pump. If it turns on, I can hear the buzzer but it’s not loud and won’t sound if the bilge pump fails.
I have no idea why someone would pay extra money for a quiet water pressure pump. If I had one, I’d install an alarm that sounds whenever it’s running.
If there’s one thing I’ve learned over the years, it’s that anything I put on the boat will come out some day. I try to keep things independent and easy to replace. If I install a new gizmo, I try to keep cables accessible and hope to avoid cosmetic issues when it is eventually replaced. I’ve lost count of how many different instruments and radios I’ve installed and replaced. I wish that Pearson had this view when they built the boat. I have plumbing installed in inaccessible places. An example would be the shower drain. If I ever have to replace that hose or fitting, good luck!
Rich
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Hi Rich
That’s one of them, the fancy one that alarms or plays music.
Thanks to some artillery in a prior life, loud noises don’t bother me.
There is a company that makes freestanding water alarms about the size of a coffee k-cup but they react to moisture over time and would false alarm on a boat.
Q -
Tor,
I am right there with you. All the interfacing going on these days has me
totally in the dark. They call it simplifying, I guess, but to me to put so
much trust into a single device, I don’t get it. I admit that the latest
technology is WAY beyond my grasp to understand so I guess that’s why I
could never truly trust it. “Whatever floats your boat!” …and I plan on
steering my boat a whole lot!I appreciate all this advise and ideas but I’m pretty sure if I get to
truly hate where my ignition and gauges are, kinda already do, I’ll put
them right back under that Plexiglas on the bridgedeck where I can see
them. Maybe the ignition somewhere else, but that too to me makes it more
complicated.Ken
On Fri, Oct 24, 2014 at 8:15 AM, Silverheels via maillist <
> wrote:Quote:I confess to being a bit on the traditional side of sailing and
prefer being the equipment interface on my boat. I tell the
autopilot or windvane where to steer, the fridge when to run and
the lights when to turn on & off. I monitor the boat’s heading,
the wind direction and strength, the battery and the bilge water
levels. I adjust the sail halyard tension and the solar panel
angle. Heck, sometimes I even steer the boat! Arrr, I am
SAILORMAN!K.I.S.S.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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I did replace that shower drain hose, Rich. It was a long, blind
stretch, but just possible.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Quent,
Wish I’d know about the $10 bilge alarm at Harbor Freight 7 years
ago when I made mine. I ‘glassed a tiny shelf out of the way on
the side of the deep bilge, mounted a float switch on it and
wired that to an Advance Auto car alarm and an LED installed into
the main breaker panel, with a second red LED in the engine
instrument panel in the cockpit. If that alarm ever goes off
it’ll wake everyone within a half-mile, starting with the
skipper. Even so, I lift the cabin sole hatch a few times a day
(and night) while offshore and look. I’m not only the vessel’s
equipment interface, but the failsafe back-up system, too.🙂
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Plays music! What does it play, taps or “Here comes that sinking feeling”?
http://www.sail-world.com/USA/Ive-got-that-sinking-feeling…/78986
Rich
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Thanks Quent, I have one stashed at the ready in the furthest aft locker.
Hopefully I won’t need it right away or at least until I establish where to
bolt it down when needed. I have the hoses all cut to length ready for
emergency, but need to come up with a “mounting base” plan.Thanks for reminding me!
KenOn Fri, Oct 24, 2014 at 3:21 PM, quent via maillist <
wrote:
This might be a good chance to inform everyone that I still have a Edson
gallon per stroke pump using up space in the basement. Tor, you could
mount it on a piece of bilge hatch size clear plexi then check and pump
bilge on the same trip.
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I have a big manual pump mounted on a wood board, with 3 or 4′
hoses, but it’s not for bolting. I keep it mobile for any kind of
emergency. Last time I used it was to assist a guy who’s skiff
was flooding. For Silverheels’ bilge I have several built-in
pumps… and buckets.Quote:
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What I have in mind is bolted to a plywood board temporarily replacing the cabin sole hatch by the galley over the deep section of the bilge. The pump has a bottom intake. By the time I’d need it, a short intake hose would do. Exit would be via the galley port through a piece of plexiglass where the screen would fit. Maybe enough hose to clear the rail. Problem is figuring out where to stow all this kit.
Q -
I have a household 115V sump pump. It would either run from my inverter or a portable gas generator under the cockpit table. You can pick these up for less than $100. You of course need a manual pump too, but the 115V pump is cheap insurance and with a 1″ discharge hose moves a lot more water than a manual pump.
Rich
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Great idea! I believe I will do the same.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Quent,
Agreed.
It is much like using an iPad as a navigation device. They are great to use, but will never replace the Garmin GPS (IMO). Some folk use them in waterproof cases, but they have a tendency to overheat and then just shutdown!
Remember the days of using a compass, paper charts, boatspeed, sextant and a lighthouse to find your position! Now all in one electronic black box – GPS
The Arduino is a device that will be an additional monitoring tool and falls into the category of ‘tinkering’. It will not replace bilge controls, gas alarm, engine sensors etc.
Just an item on the project list when I have had enough of sanding!
Cheers
Dennis
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I have a chartplotter package for my iphone. This sounds silly but it has a purpose. I was ashore one evening a few years back in a quiet anchorage when the fog came in. We were anchored about a mile from the town dock down a narrow channel. Though I knew the harbor pretty well and had a compass onboard, finding the boat was almost impossible. After about an hour of blindly trying to find the boat, the fog lifted; otherwise I might still be there. The cellphone chart-plotter is cheap and would even work as a backup if the boat got hit by lightening.
I also have a Garmin GPS chartplotting all for my IPAD. This is actually a pretty nice app and is cheap. Though it’s not as nice as a built-in GPS, it serves as a good backup. You need an IPAD that has an internal GPS or you need an Iphone to provide location data. To use the iphone for position data, you need the following app.
http://gizmodo.com/5796662/airlocation-lets-the-wi-fi-ipad-really-use-the-iphones-gps-signalI don’t trust the GPS system. There are too many things that could bring it down. I worked on the GPS in-orbit navigation system, the attitude controller, back in the ’80s. This gave me an appreciation of just how fragile these things are. Some bone-head in Washington shut down the only backup we have. Don’t get me started… Don’t toss your sextant and radio direction finder just yet. You may need it some day.
BTW: I picked up a Cassens and Plath sextant at a yard sale a couple of years ago for a very affordable price. If you are in the market for a sextant, look for a used one. They are’t selling well on the used equipment market.
Rich
Original Message
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Rich,
I for one would celebrate the end of GPS and the return of
navigation by sextant. Neophytes’ fear of celestial navigation
used to be what kept the plastic hoards away from the Caribbean.
Now any fool with a GPS can get there and does, overcrowding and
over-developing what used to be the West Indies paradise.Down with GPS!
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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