Forums › General Discussion › Interior teak finish

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    • #68887
      allantereshko
      Participant

      Am going to refinish the interior and I have a few spots that have been lightened by sun exposure over time, especially near the companionway. I want to use a satin varnish to keep the gloss down. Would to get the interior as uniform as possible. Any thoughts please?

    • #80823
      RichCarter
      Participant

      Matching the interior color is very difficult. You might be better off refinishing an entire bulkhead rather than trying to match the color on a small section. Pearson used different finishes over the years. On the earliest 424’s, the finish darkened to a very dark brown. On later hulls, a more durable finish was used but it still ambers over time.

      When I’ve done repairs below, I strip the area using a non-toxic paint stripper. Then I apply a coat of cetol followed by a coat of Epifanes. I then rub on a coat of Minwax wipe-on satin polyurethane. I use the Minwax finish for maintenance. After we clean the interior, I apply a thin coat with a rag.


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    • #80824
      allantereshko
      Participant

      Thanks, will experiment with the wipe on in some inconspicuous area to see how much it darkens the paneling. I have a lot on my plate now. Am doing the exterior teak which had the old style cetol on it and turned hideous. Took it off with a heat gun very easily and am using oxalic acid to bleach it clean. I am using a slurry applied with a green pad and allowed to set up almost dry then rinse it very thoroughly. Seems to be working OK with no observable side effects on the surface of the wood

    • #80825
      RichCarter
      Participant

      Allan
      What are you using for exterior teak finish? I’m still using Cetol, but I’ve been considering painting the teak brown (just kidding).

      Rich


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    • #80826
      allantereshko
      Participant

      First I feel like I must preface this with a disclaimer that I can be a times a glutton for punishment,but I am going to use Ephiphanes gloss. 1st 2 coats 50% diluted then 5 full. There is just enough wood to make the boat sparkle but not enough to make it overwhelming. I don’t have the wood on the cockpit coatings to deal with. The wood is coming up very nicely after the bleaching and I’d like to give my girl some new makeup. I’m in the water so the boat is dancing a little which relieves some of the monotony and makes me imagine she likes the attention. I see your from New England, rented a house in Port Clyde last summer, loved Camden.

    • #80827
      skipmac
      Participant

      I had to replace some of the paneling around the old leaky ports in my 1983/1984 422. On the recommendation of another owner I tried Minwax Gunstock shade stain and a clear satin varnish on the new teak paneling and it was a perfect match to the existing woodwork. Even where the paneling butted right up against the original bulkhead you couldn’t tell the difference.

      I used the same stain on some solid teak trim and it came out the right shade but some of the pieces were a little lighter. Looking closely at the different pieces that was due to the variations in the cut and grain of the boards.

    • #80828
      RichCarter
      Participant

      Interesting recommendation. I might try that the next time I do a repair. The method I use comes out lighter than the original work, not a bad idea if I’m doing a whole panel but if I just want a small repair your method might work better.

      I find that raw teak comes in several different shades, even if it’s supposed to be Burmese teak. Most of the boards I have are a light shade of brown, but some are a dark color. I don’t know why, perhaps they are from different parts of the tree. I’ve been getting most of my wood from an exotic hardwood shop in NH, http://www.goosebaylumber.net/SpeciesSpecs/ExoticLumberTurningStockQ_Z.html. They are within driving distance for me.

      Rich


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    • #80832
      skipmac
      Participant

      Hi Rich,

      Yes I saw not just a variation in the grain orientation of the teak boards I was staining but also a wide variation in the color and darkness of the pieces. Between the two the color of the finished pieces varied a lot.

      The paneling on the other hand, was much more consistent and the results reflected that.

      I have a few places where the original finish had been wet and turned a yellowish white color. Did an experiment with the old paneling I replaced to see which method of refinishing would match the best. My son-in-law who builds fancy houses with fancy kitchens and trim for people with a lot more money that I recommended sanding very lightly with very fine grit to get off the old finish.

      I used 220 and got off the discolored finish without sanding down into the veneer on the panel. Then tried sections with varnish only, stain then varnish, etc. Varnish only left a noticeably lighter patch. Stain then varnish was darker. Still not a perfect match to the surrounding wood but close enough. Also, there were some small spots in the grain where I couldn’t get all the old, white finish off but the varnish made that disappear.

      Have not tried a stripper test yet. Would love to hear the results if you try that technique.

      Skip

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