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I could have sworn we discussed this in the past, but can’t seem to find
anything in the archive.I started to make some measurements for the jacklines and in the process of
trying to lay out the tape measure realized that there aren’t really
any continuous clean lines from the cockpit to the bow. I have the mast
pulpits so the idea route is inboard of the shrouds, inside the pulpits in
route to the bow, with the added advantage of if you fall you’re likely to
stay onboard!I think I remember seeing someone with padeyes on the traveler riser, and
that seemed like a good idea, and one which could be a good starting point
for my route, but I’m curious how you handled getting forward to that
point?I also have a single padeye next to the instrument cluster on the forward
part of the cockpit (off center to starboard) that I guess would make a good
“oh shit” handle using the short leash on the tether if you weren’t at the
helm. I was thinking inside the cockpit I’d run a linewebbing from it it to
the starboard stern cleat, as well as the system for going forward.Anyway, since it seems like we hadn’t discussed this I thought I’d bring it
up.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
FWIW
I have an extra long tether that allows me to go across the beam at its
widest point.I have jack line webbing on a cleat at the stern that lies in the gunwale
and runs fore to another cleat for the anchor. I put my tether on that jack
line.
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Ditto, with pad eyes in cockpit and a dual tether so I’m always clipped even
when changing attachment points.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jun 29, 2011 6:40 AM, “Thatcher A. Stone” wrote:FWIW
I have an extra long tether that allows me to go across the beam at its
widest point.I have jack line webbing on a cleat at the stern that lies in the gunwale
and runs fore to another cleat for the anchor. I put my tether on thatjack
Quote:line.
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A centerline jackline from the traveller to the mast, in addition to the
deck jacklines is also a good idea. Going forward one would initially be
hooked into one of the deck jacklines, then using a second tether hook into
the center line jackline.
When working on the leeward side of the boat in rough weather it is best to
hooked in to weather, not a line on the leeward deck. It is possible to be
thrown or trip over the leeward lifelines and then you would be held on the
side of the boat (possibly under water) until someone else could rescue
you. I think a single hander drowned that way in the Round Britain race a
number of years ago.
My placing the liferaft on the trunk cabin prevents me from rigging. So
when I have to work the leeward side of the boat in rough weather, I hook
into the windward jackline and go down that deck. Then I cross over the
trunk cabin. Like Thatcher I have a long enough tether that I can stand on
the leeward deck while connected to the windward jackline.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 8:32 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Ditto, with pad eyes in cockpit and a dual tether so I’m always clipped
even
when changing attachment points.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jun 29, 2011 6:40 AM, “Thatcher A. Stone” wrote:FWIW
I have an extra long tether that allows me to go across the beam at its
widest point.I have jack line webbing on a cleat at the stern that lies in the gunwale
and runs fore to another cleat for the anchor. I put my tether on thatjack
Quote:line.
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Its highly desirable to have things setup such that a crewmember is always clipped on to a jackline when in the cockpit or ondeck. I put a pad-eye at each side of the bridge-deck. From there, a flat webbing jackline runs to each stern-cleat. This way, its possible to clip-on before leaving the companionway. I put a length of flat webbing down the length of each side-deck inboard of the shrouds from the winch-cleat to the bow cleat. With two teathers, its possible to clip on to the deck jackline before unclipping from the cockpit jackline. Flat webbing is preferable since if you step on it it doesn’t roll. I bought the webbing, cut it to length and sewed it myself on a heavy-duty machine.
Rich
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