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Tightening the prop shaft stuffing box is a normal maintenance procedure you can (and should) do yourself
while the boat’s in the water. All you need are two wrenches big enough to fit those nuts. Hold the lower or
aft “packing nut” in place and loosen the upper “lock nut” a little. Then tighten down the packing nut a
little at a time, until the leak just barely stops. Then, with the prop turning at idle speed, watch the
gland. It should let in a drop of seawater every 30-60 seconds. If it isn’t doing that, adjust the packing nut
until it does let in a drop of seawater every 30-60 seconds with the shaft spinning, then lock it in place
with the lock nut. It’s important not to over tighten the gland. If it does not let any water into itself it
will score and eventually ruin the shaft.If you find you have to tighten the main packing nut way down, almost to the limit of it’s threads, or if you
tighten it as far as you can and the gland still leaks, then you need to re-pack the gland with fresh packing
material. Any boat yard will have it. That can be done afloat, but it’s a bit nerve-wracking because a lot of
water flows into the bilges while you’re digging out the old packing and laying in the new. You might get
someone experienced to do it for you the first time and watch them, or just wait until the boat’s hauled or
careened.You’ll also have to do this same adjustment/maintenance to the rudder shaft packing gland, albeit much, much
less often since it doesn’t turn nearly as much as does the prop shaft.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Good morning,
We replaced our shaft seal with a PSS drip less unit. It was a good move but the boat should be out of the water for that.
To adjust a standard packing just back off the lock nut a bit and then turn the glad nut inward until the shaft drips about once every two or three seconds while the shaft is turning.
It’s necessary for a little water to get through for lubrication.<.. snip>
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I'd like to add to Tor's exposition this little tidbit: There are many types of packing, flax, teflon impregnated flax, and graphite impregnated flax to name a few common ones. Flax packing definitely needs water. They say teflon doesn't but don't believe it. Teflon creeps with friction and I've found it to end up scoring the shaft. My absolute choice is the graphite impregnated one. That's what I'm replacing all my leaking packing with. I'll get the size for you when I get back to the boat as I have some there.
Bob
On Thu, Jul 31, 2008 at 5:03 AM, Jubilee < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Brought Jubilee from NC to MA. The packing gland on the prop shaft has a near constant drip. I assume it either needs to be replaced or the nuts tightened. Should this be something I try on my own or should I have it hauled and done by a professional?
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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I don’t claim to be an expert here, but wouldn’t you do it in the reverse order? First tighten correctly using the proper method, and if that fails, then replace. Why haul unnecessarily?
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Yesterday I suggested the correctly adjusted prop shaft packing gland “should let in a drop of seawater every
30-60 seconds.” That might be a bit tight. I was actually taught to adjust for a couple of drops of seawater
every 30 seconds or so. I don’t believe it needs to be any more than that, but you do want to be certain that
the gland is wet inside.Of course, Bob was right about the variety of packing materials available. Like him, I use the graphite
impregnated stuff now, in both the prop shaft and rudder shaft glands.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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And that couple of drops of seawater every 30 seconds or so is only while the shaft is spinning. When the
shaft is still there should be no drip at all.Quote:
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Quite correct. In the Navy we were taught 1-2 drops per minute. The graphite packing will run perfectly cool with no water at all as long as you don't tighten it too much. How much is too much? After it stops dripping while running, don't tighten any more. Graphite is super slippery and so far I haven't scored any shafts with it. Your experience my vary. But 1-2 drops per minute while rotating, none while stopped.
If you do this in the water, which is totally possible, cut the new packing first – use the shaft as a guide and cut the packing on a 90 degree angle – you'll need three pieces plus however many you plan to drop in the bilge. Install them with the cut 90 degrees from the previous one (so that if one is at 12 o'clock, the next will be at 3, and the final at 6.
Be prepared for water. Make sure your bilge pump is working. If you've never done this, it's like first aid – you'll be surprised at all the blood, er ah, water that comes in, but unless you're really, really slow, or leave for a six pack of beer, the boat is in no danger.
There is an advantage to doing it in the water – namely, you'll find out just what it's like rather than having to do it in an emergency situation with no experience. That makes the emergency much worse since you'll not know what to expect.
And there, dear friends, is my two cents. I'll let you know how it goes…
Bob
On Fri, Aug 1, 2008 at 8:42 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:And that couple of drops of seawater every 30 seconds or so is only while the shaft is spinning. When the
shaft is still there should be no drip at all.Quote:
Original Message
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I assume that you have a stock packing gland and not a dripless retrofit. Adjusting the packing nuts and replacing the packing material is normally considered a maintenance project that the owner should be able to handle. You can purchase a pair of short adjustable pipe wrenches that fit the packing nut on the 424. Sorry, I don’t have a link handy. If you have questions about how to do this, I’m sure the group will help out.
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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When I pulled the V-Drive out over the winter I took the time to replace the stuffing box hose. When I took it off it appeared to have begun to delaminate when viewed from the ends. I also bead blasted the entire packing assembly. It cleaned up beautifully and can now be adjusted by hand. I only need the packing wrench to snug up the lock nut.
My success with the teflon drip free packing is another story. I'll probably go back to standard flax.
On 8/9/08, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I assume that you have a stock packing gland and not a dripless retrofit. Adjusting the packing nuts and replacing the packing material is normally considered a maintenance project that the owner should be able to handle. You can purchase a pair of short adjustable pipe wrenches that fit the packing nut on the 424. Sorry, I don't have a link handy. If you have questions about how to do this, I'm sure the group will help out.Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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If you go to anything, go to the graphite/flax packing which will run without water.
Bob
On Mon, Aug 11, 2008 at 7:11 AM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:When I pulled the V-Drive out over the winter I took the time to replace the stuffing box hose. When I took it off it appeared to have begun to delaminate when viewed from the ends. I also bead blasted the entire packing assembly. It cleaned up beautifully and can now be adjusted by hand. I only need the packing wrench to snug up the lock nut.My success with the teflon drip free packing is another story. I'll probably go back to standard flax.
On 8/9/08, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I assume that you have a stock packing gland and not a dripless retrofit. Adjusting the packing nuts and replacing the packing material is normally considered a maintenance project that the owner should be able to handle. You can purchase a pair of short adjustable pipe wrenches that fit the packing nut on the 424. Sorry, I don't have a link handy. If you have questions about how to do this, I'm sure the group will help out.Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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