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Morning Glory is a 1979 model equipped with an early factory installed in-mast furling system which leaks like the dickens. A PO installed Spartite at the partners but that does not seem to have done much to slow the flood when it begins to rain. The leaking may be caused by a one inch hole in the Spartite, but I don’t think the mast should be getting water at the partners, anyway.
Painkiller, Earl Chappel’s 1980 model which also has in mast furling, is docked a few boats from me and it has an aluminum “plug” firmly bedded to the inside of the mast to which the tack is attached.Painkiller does not have a mast leaking problem.
I was hoping that someone on the list might know of a source for the “plug” that is installed on Painkiller. It would sure make my life much easier. Baring that does anyone have any suggestions as to how I might make my mast fairly water tight?
Lee
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Lee,
It’s hard for some who do not have Pearson in-mast furling to picture your system. Can you send a photo of the area you believe is leaking, and maybe another of your neighbor’s plug?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
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Tor,
I’ll get some pictures and send them off in a few days. Do you remember Earl and Debbie on Painkiller? They were in Green Cove Springs with you last year.
Lee
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Lee,
I agree with Bob, need specifics of the leak. Few of us have the in-mast furler so we may not be able to provide much help.
If the leak is around the Spartite, then that should have nothing to do with the furling mast.
Spartite does not seal the mast partners. For that you must use a normal deck sealant. If you have not had your mast pulled for a number of years the sealant around the Spartite may have separated from the partners. If you have pulled the mast recently, it may not have been properly re-bedded.
Usually the the Spartite is held in place with self-tapping screws through the mast deck collar. If you remove those you may be able to pull the Spartite up the mast enough to put sealant around it and push it back down.When I pulled my mast in 2007 it leaked badly after being re-stepped until I pretty much gunked the Spartite with sealant.
I assume you have a cover (Sunbrella) for the Spartite as it is not UV-resistant.
John
On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 8:09 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hey, Lee, is the water running down the inside or outside of the mast? That's a key issue.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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It leaks from both the inside and around the outside.
Lee<.. snip>
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The Spartite was unprotected when I bought the boat. I have added a mast boot I built using the inner tube I salvaged from a skip jack. The rubber was about 1/4 thick. I really don’t believe I’m getting water through there, but I will take a water hose and direct the water stream at the top of the boot as a test and report back on the results.
I have not had the mast pulled in the three years I’ve own her. I’ve been docked at Brunswick Landing Marina in Brunswick, GA the entire time. The local repair facility has a well deserved reputation for doing poor work at a very premium price and they don’t allow customers to do any work themselves. I’m waiting until after June first to move the boat to a facility that will pull both the boat and the mast for less than $600 and allow me to do some much needed work.
Thanks to all of you for the questions – they make me think.
Lee<.. snip>
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This months Ocean Navigator has a nice instructional article on a mast boot made from an old truck inner tube.
On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 9:27 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Then it sounds like two problems. I'd attack the outside one first
John
On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 9:07 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
It leaks from both the inside and around the outside.
LeePost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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I do that. Gotta cover them with sunbrella or like-minded material lest they crack and uv-decompose.
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On Jan 13, 2009, at 10:02 PM, “Chuck Ruble” < ([email][/email])> wrote:
This months Ocean Navigator has a nice instructional article on a mast boot made from an old truck inner tube.
On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 9:27 PM, John Stevenson <()> wrote:
Then it sounds like two problems. I’d attack the outside one first
John
On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 9:07 PM, Lee Yonkers <()> wrote:
It leaks from both the inside and around the outside.
LeePost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hi All,
You'll love this: if you have access to heat shrink tape, you can seal the outside of the mast with that over the partners clamped then heat with hot air gun for a professional look. Cheap, easy, and totally UV protected. Comes in white, blue, or clear (although I don't see the point of clear for this application). If sealed properly (and easy to re-do) will not leak. Sure, not very salty (rubber impregnated canvas), but after struggling with all the cock-a-mayme mast boots I've dealt with over the years, this is the best.
If you need two layers, do the bottom around the partners first, then overlap the top on the mast second. Ba-da-boom, ba-da-bing, fuggeddabouddit.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Bob,
Neat solution. The stuff is so cheap you probably don't need to worry about UV – just replace the stuff annually or sooner. I priced a 35'x1″ roll on Amazon.com for less than $2.00. I'll give it a try the next time have to seal the partners.John
On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 8:41 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi All,
You'll love this: if you have access to heat shrink tape, you can seal the outside of the mast with that over the partners clamped then heat with hot air gun for a professional look. Cheap, easy, and totally UV protected. Comes in white, blue, or clear (although I don't see the point of clear for this application). If sealed properly (and easy to re-do) will not leak. Sure, not very salty (rubber impregnated canvas), but after struggling with all the cock-a-mayme mast boots I've dealt with over the years, this is the best.
If you need two layers, do the bottom around the partners first, then overlap the top on the mast second. Ba-da-boom, ba-da-bing, fuggeddabouddit.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hi John,
Get the 4″ roll, or 6″ if you can – much easier, less wraps.
Bob
On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 9:07 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bob,
Neat solution. The stuff is so cheap you probably don't need to worry about UV – just replace the stuff annually or sooner. I priced a 35'x1″ roll on Amazon.com for less than $2.00. I'll give it a try the next time have to seal the partners.John
On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 8:41 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi All,
You'll love this: if you have access to heat shrink tape, you can seal the outside of the mast with that over the partners clamped then heat with hot air gun for a professional look. Cheap, easy, and totally UV protected. Comes in white, blue, or clear (although I don't see the point of clear for this application). If sealed properly (and easy to re-do) will not leak. Sure, not very salty (rubber impregnated canvas), but after struggling with all the cock-a-mayme mast boots I've dealt with over the years, this is the best.
If you need two layers, do the bottom around the partners first, then overlap the top on the mast second. Ba-da-boom, ba-da-bing, fuggeddabouddit.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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I think I’ve said this before, but here goes again for anyone who might have missed it.
I probably have the cheapest and easiest mast boot and it never leaks. I wrap a kitchen sized plastic trash bag around the mast. Then I wrap that with duck tape starting at the bottom until the tape covers the plastic and wraps onto the mast. I make sure that it fits snug around the base and the tape should stick to the deck plate. I then place a canvas cover over the mast boot. This is strictly for appearances and to keep sunlight off the duck tape. West Marine used to sell these canvas covers, but I don’t see them in the catalog anymore. Mine is about 20 years old and probably needs replacement. It would be simple to sew one up. If the duck tape sticks up above the canvas, I wrap some white chafe tape around what shows. I’ve never had a leak unless the aluminum deck plate needs recaulking.
(There’s two spellings for this tape, duct tape and duck tape. Since it was first spelled duck tape and as far as I can tell has no application in duct work, I use the older spelling.)
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hi Rich,
In the Navy, before it was popular for repairing everything from car fenders to guitars and the bridge of glasses, it was called duct tape and HP tape (although the new silver stuff isn't all that HP). It was said that you could repair a 1200lb steam leak with 10 wraps. Impressive when you consider you'd search for a steam leak with a broomstick (when it got cut off, you found the leak).
Bob
On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 2:33 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I think I've said this before, but here goes again for anyone who might have missed it.I probably have the cheapest and easiest mast boot and it never leaks. I wrap a kitchen sized plastic trash bag around the mast. Then I wrap that with duck tape starting at the bottom until the tape covers the plastic and wraps onto the mast. I make sure that it fits snug around the base and the tape should stick to the deck plate. I then place a canvas cover over the mast boot. This is strictly for appearances and to keep sunlight off the duck tape. West Marine used to sell these canvas covers, but I don't see them in the catalog anymore. Mine is about 20 years old and probably needs replacement. It would be simple to sew one up. If the duck tape sticks up above the canvas, I wrap some white chafe tape around what shows. I've never had a leak unless the aluminum deck plate needs recaulking.
(There's two spellings for this tape, duct tape and duck tape. Since it was first spelled duck tape and as far as I can tell has no application in duct work, I use the older spelling.)
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Check the collar that goes around the mast hole. We had water come down the mast from underneath the collar. I thoiught about iunscrewing it and rebedding it, but decided that was too much, especially with the mast up. So I put a bead of silicone around the outside edge of the collar and the leak stopped. It has not recurred in three sseasons.
Norris Larson on Easy Reach, Hull #203
— On Tue, 1/13/09, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Call it what you will. Its better than chewing-gum and bailing-wire. Apparently it was once used on duct work. I don’t know anyone who uses if for that anymore.
“The original use was to keep moisture out of the ammunition cases. Because it was waterproof, people referred to the tape as “Duck Tape.” Also, the tape was made using cotton duck – similar to what was used in their cloth medical tapes. Military personnel quickly discovered that the tape was very versatile and used it to fix their guns, jeeps, aircraft, etc. After the war, the tape was used in the booming housing industry to connect heating and air conditioning duct work together.
Soon, the color was changed from Army green to silver to match the ductwork and people started to refer to duck tape as “Duct Tape.”
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Uhhhm, what application in duck work does your tape have?
It’s duct tape, and it is used to seal tin (now steel) air conditioning and heating ducts. Duck tape was/is a particular brand of duct tape, but I think it came along after people commonly called it that anyway.
On 1/14/09 11:33 AM, wrote :
Since it was first spelled duck tape and as far as I can tell has no application in duct work, I use the older spelling.Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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I apply it to all my ducks. Keeps 'em in line.
On Thu, Jan 15, 2009 at 9:40 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Uhhhm, what application in duck work does your tape have?
It’s duct tape, and it is used to seal tin (now steel) air conditioning and heating ducts. Duck tape was/is a particular brand of duct tape, but I think it came along after people commonly called it that anyway.
On 1/14/09 11:33 AM, () wrote :
Since it was first spelled duck tape and as far as I can tell has no application in duct work, I use the older spelling.—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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For affixing to chicken in thoroughfare-crossing
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On Jan 15, 2009, at 9:40 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Uhhhm, what application in duck work does your tape have?
It’s duct tape, and it is used to seal tin (now steel) air conditioning and heating ducts. Duck tape was/is a particular brand of duct tape, but I think it came along after people commonly called it that anyway.
On 1/14/09 11:33 AM, () wrote :
Since it was first spelled duck tape and as far as I can tell has no application in duct work, I use the older spelling.Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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