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I was just talking to the Xantrex folks and they don’t seem to understand
the wiring I have.My batteries have various LOADs using the negative posts instead of a
busterminal strip. No real problem there in my current installation.
My alternator is NOT case grounded. It has it’s own Negative wire back to
the batteries.
I also have a wire that goes form Negative to my engine block.When I install the shunt for the LinkPro, all of the LOADS (in or out)
Negative wires need to go on one post of the shunt and the battery Negative
on the other post.So the question is, what is that wire that goes to my engine block? Seems
like’s part of the NEG of my system and my bonding as well. Because when we
had the engine out, if I didn’t hok that wire to the bonding wire to the
post on the prop strut under the engine I could not run any DC loads.So, given that should that wire go on the Load side of the shunt?
I love when I call tech support and they don’t have any clue either. 😉
Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Hi Pat, there is something very wrong going on here. You need a grounding
buss that all your loads go to, including the engine ground. From there, one
wire to the shunt and one wire from the shunt to the batteries.Normally, alternator cases are grounded by the bolts that hold them in
place, and no wire goes separately to the battery grounds. If it does in
your case, put it to the buss bar I mentioned earlier.One thing that may be confusing the issue here is that a connection anywhere
on a wire is the same as anywhere else. That may help you simplify what
you’re trying to see in your head.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 12, 2011 1:43 PM, “Patrick "Peaboy" Walters” <
> wrote:I was just talking to the Xantrex folks and they don’t seem to understand
the wiring I have.My batteries have various LOADs using the negative posts instead of a
busterminal strip. No real problem there in my current installation.
My alternator is NOT case grounded. It has it’s own Negative wire back to
the batteries.
I also have a wire that goes form Negative to my engine block.When I install the shunt for the LinkPro, all of the LOADS (in or out)
Negative wires need to go on one post of the shunt and the battery Negative
on the other post.So the question is, what is that wire that goes to my engine block? Seems
like’s part of the NEG of my system and my bonding as well. Because when we
had the engine out, if I didn’t hok that wire to the bonding wire to the
post on the prop strut under the engine I could not run any DC loads.So, given that should that wire go on the Load side of the shunt?
I love when I call tech support and they don’t have any clue either. 😉
Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Very simply stated…. if you want the LinkPro to measure battery usage, it must go through the shunt. If the particular object does not go through the shunt, but is directly connected to the battery, it will work, but it’s current usage will not be registered by the LinkPro.
So, things like the starter and fuel solenoid, which are case grounded, use the grounding wire (BIG black cable). In your case, if that big cable is not connected to the shunt. They will continue to operate, but their current usage will not be shown on the LinkPro.
Thats my understanding. YMMV
AlanPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Well said, Alan. True, dat. Also, I am concerned that you have to connect to
a bonding point for stuff to work. That’s absolutely wrong.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 12, 2011 1:55 PM, “Alan” wrote:Quote:Very simply stated…. if you want the LinkPro to measure battery usage, it
must go through the shunt. If the particular object does not go through the
shunt, but is directly connected to the battery, it will work, but it’s
current usage will not be registered by the LinkPro.
So, things like the starter and fuel solenoid, which are case grounded, use
the grounding wire (BIG black cable). In your case, if that big cable is not
connected to the shunt. They will continue to operate, but their current
usage will not be shown on the LinkPro.
Thats my understanding. YMMV
AlanPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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My alternator had a separate grounding terminal, but it’s for the voltage regulator ground. The alternator is indeed case grounded, else you would need a grounding cable as big as the positive cable…… and this grounding terminal is only for a small gauge wire.
alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Robert Fine wrote:
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Ok, then as long as the engine ground goes to the shunt, you’re good to go.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 12, 2011 1:59 PM, “Alan” wrote:Quote:My alternator had a separate grounding terminal, but it’s for the voltage
regulator ground. The alternator is indeed case grounded, else you would
need a grounding cable as big as the positive cable…… and this grounding
terminal is only for a small gauge wire.
alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Robert Fine wrote:
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I agree also, the bonding (and most of mine is disconnected, that discussion is akin to anchors ) should not be used to run anything.
Just a hint to the future, make sure your bonding is clean (noise wise) else you will have difficulties down the road with a SSB installation.
alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Robert Fine wrote:
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Shunt or battery will still work. A much cleaner install would be for it to go to the shunt. One less connection to the batteries. That way when you crank your starter for 30 minutes trying to start your engine all those little amps will be subtracted from the reading on your LinkPro.
Patrick must have another issue with the bonding thing
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Robert Fine wrote:
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I do believe though when I had my engine out, the bonding wire for the strut is connected to the same bolt on the port side of the engine block as the grounding cable. On the Stb side of the engine, the bottom starter mounting bolt, is the continuation of the bonding to the strainer and other devices.
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
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I had the Link 2000 which can monitor two banks of batteries and has a
double shunt, one for each bank. I had the starter battery on one and
the house batteries on the other. I found very little value in
measuring the amps in/out of the starter battery, though having the
voltage is a bit useful. All that said, you need to decide what data is
most useful to you. I would proffer that monitoring the house battery
in/out is most valuable.Pete
On 10/12/2011 12:15 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I do believe though when I had my engine out, the bonding wire for the strut is connected to the same bolt on the port side of the engine block as the grounding cable. On the Stb side of the engine, the bottom starter mounting bolt, is the continuation of the bonding to the strainer and other devices.
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
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Very true Pete. I have the link 20 which has 2 banks also. It does not have the VR like the 2000. Very little knowledge comes from the start bank, but monitoring the voltage is a good thing.
After a while you get a sense of your daily usage of amps and can tell right away when something has gone awry. So I tend to put everything though the shunt.
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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On my engine on the port side one of the bolts to the starter goes to the
bonding wire to the prop strut.
On the starboard side, above the Temp Switch there is a bonding wire and a
NEG wire that goes to the battery NEG.
That is probably because my old Alternator was case grounded (i.e. NEG went
through the foot to the block) so it had to get back to the battery somehow.
So in the old system the NEG and the Bonding were connected.
Because of this, or maybe because of ignorance, My PO just used the bonding
terminals in the electrical panel as NEG.Since we plan on leaving Monterey tomorrow and head around Pt Concepcion,
I’m going to leave everything as-is for now and the Link Pro will stay in
the box. Its obvious I have a larger wiring project on my hands. I did make
the change to hook the alternator directly to the House bank and now the
starting battery is charged through the Blue Sea ACR.Not being able to install the LinkPro is kind of sad because I just dropped
in 6 new Interstate GC2-XHD-S which are the replacements for the U2200 which
came with the boat. They are also a tiny bit larger at 239 Ah vs
220Ah. Interstate was great do deal with. They came by in their delivery
truck, dropped the new batteries off on the deck and took away the old cores
for $100.95 per battery. That was a great deal because when I talked to the
guy on the phone, I thought they were $195. 😉Wish us luck as we head South again. We’ll get this wiring cleaned up and
LinkPro installed in either San Diego or Mexico after the Baja Ha-Ha!Viva Mexico!
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 11:15 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I do believe though when I had my engine out, the bonding wire for the
strut is connected to the same bolt on the port side of the engine block as
the grounding cable. On the Stb side of the engine, the bottom starter
mounting bolt, is the continuation of the bonding to the strainer and other
devices.
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters
wrote:Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
“My PO just used the bonding
terminals in the electrical panel as NEG.”
True, because of that, the bonding wire does have a NEG potential (respect to POS or +12), but they are not supposed to be used as NEG RETURNS.
Not sure what kind of alternator you have, but if it’s NOT case grounded, your NEG cable on the alternator should be as big as the POS cable. Is it?
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
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Yep, All the wires to/from my alternator are 2/0 as is the wire to the
starter from the starting battery and all of my battery cables for
that matter.-p
Sent from my iPhoneOn Oct 13, 2011, at 4:01 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:“My PO just used the bonding
terminals in the electrical panel as NEG.”
True, because of that, the bonding wire does have a NEG potential (respect to POS or +12), but they are not supposed to be used as NEG RETURNS.
Not sure what kind of alternator you have, but if it’s NOT case grounded, your NEG cable on the alternator should be as big as the POS cable. Is it?
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
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