Forums › General Discussion › maillist Digest, Vol 45, Issue 9

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    • #68770
      Adam Silverstein
      Participant

      I glassed in 5x 1/8″ strips to form vertical “plywood” ribs. Then screwed polyurethaned teak plywood battens with chromed bronze oval head screws. The ribs prevent oilcanning. The teak looks awesome. Spaced with a penny, but I’d use a #10 washer next time. And 3/8″ plywood or solid battens instead of 1/4″.

      How’s it going with those drill holes?

      Adam Silverstein

      Law Offices of Adam Silverstein, P.C.
      (212) 233 4995
      (212) 227-2687 (fax)

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      On Aug 10, 2013, at 1:00 PM, wrote:

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      Today’s Topics:

      1. Re: Hull Thickness and ports (Page Two)
      2. Re: Hull Thickness and ports (Silverheels)
      3. Re: Hull Thickness and ports (Page Two)
      4. Re: Hull Thickness and ports (Silverheels)
      5. Re: Hull Thickness and ports (quent)
      6. Re: Hull Thickness and ports (kalinowski)






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    • #80016
      Anonymous

      That sounds good Adam. If that is my approach, I personally would use solid strips of stock instead of ply to laminate those ribs (much better holding for the ceiling). Then with solid stock ceiling as you mention, I think painted 3/8″ mahogany, properly fastened and spaced for good ventilation, will look and perform just fine. I happen to have tons of leftover mahogany from a job I recently completed using only rough mahogany stock 8/4 to 12/4. Here’s a video of the first two phases, the bar, and then the pool table room. I’ve just recently completed adding another 1500 bf to this basement, dining and paneled exercise room, etc. He wanted yacht quality and the feel of it. The only plywood is the bar cabinet bases.

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