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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
There's a 422 for sale here in Ft. Pierce for like $60,000. I can get particulars if anyone wants…
Bob—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Mare Geaux was for sale in late-1999 when I first started looking at P424s. They were asking about $20K less than any other 424 that was for sale at that time I think I heard from someone that the boat sunk on its mooring during a hurricane in the 90s. I can't confirm that tho.
On Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 7:31 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
There's a 422 for sale here in Ft. Pierce for like $60,000. I can get particulars if anyone wants…
Bob—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine_______________________________________________
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Interesting indeed. I would have not recognized it as a 424. What does the gang thing about the idea of removing the toerail wood?
Pete
On 1/21/2010 6:58 AM, () wrote:
Quote:p { margin: 0; } Interesting what the owner did to the boat. Removed the toe-rails, relocated stanchions to rail-cap, added a scoop transom.Rich
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My cap rail has lots of cracks and visible screw heads. I don't plan on doing anything real soon, but I definitely would not replace it with teak. I don't like the look of the plan white fiberglas so I might just paint it.
On Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 9:53 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Interesting indeed. I would have not recognized it as a 424. What does the gang thing about the idea of removing the toerail wood?Pete
On 1/21/2010 6:58 AM, () wrote:
Quote:Interesting what the owner did to the boat. Removed the toe-rails, relocated stanchions to rail-cap, added a scoop transom.Rich
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My 1978 424 has few cracks in the teak, perhaps because I’ve kept it oiled over the years. Screw heads have started showing through in various places. I’ve pulled and reset as these become visible. Resetting a few screws is pretty easy. Pearson didn’t through-bolt the deck to the hull, so I’ve always assumed that the cap-rail screws provides some measure of support. As I recall, the hull-to-deck joint is 3M5200. That stuff is supposed to last 30 years…
I’ve considered using something like trex decking but its never come up high on the list. I found a link a few years for a boat that did his entire deck with planking made from trex. I exchanged a little email with him and he’s still very happy with the result. He had an older Pearson model, a 32 if I remember. He had a serious deck rot problem because the balsa was not run end-grain when they laid-up the deck. Water penetrated the entire deck and he had to do extensive repairs. He drilled a few hundred holes in the deck and filled with epoxy. He laid down the decking to cover the repair. I’m laying down a teak deck just in the cockpit so I was interested in his experience. I ended up using real teak however. The cost of materials for such a small area isn’t a factor.
Rich
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Bob Fine and I had this discussion. Personally, I would love to get rid of the teak toe rail and, while I was doing that, I would also like to do away with the existing scuppers and replace them with scuppers that drains overboard through the rail.
I’ll let Bob speak for himself.lee
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The PO removed the original teak toe rails and installed new 1.5″ thick teak toe rails all the way around, including some beautiful rounded pieces around the outside of the cockpit. I’s sure it wasn’t cheap, but it really looks good. My son keeps it well oiled when he’s not squiring coeds around the lagoon.
It’s a little chunky, but very nautically attractive.
Dan Kalinowsk
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu -
Lee
I would advise against scuppers that go through the rail. My previous boat had that setup. There was always a dark stain down the topsides where water drained. The windward side didn’t drain well when under sail either.Rich
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Hi Rich,
The windward side doesn't drain well now, so no loss. The advantage of scuppers is that four holes in the deck are removed and that four large and difficult to get to through hulls are removed. I'd rather have black stripes than sunken boat. Moreover, the deck drains are placed particularly to not drain all the water (not in the low part of the deck), so there's that.
I was going to take the current deck drains and elbow them directly out to the hull. I'll wash the black marks if I have to.
As far as the sugar scoop stern goes, if it was done right it's a capital idea! I like it a lot! Will I do it? probably not.
I would happily remove the caprails and fiberglass the hull-deck seam and call the whole thing good. Especially if I removed the eyebrow like Lee did. It makes the boat look more modern and when the entire deck is painted it looks really good.Â
On the other hand, I saw Whoosh the other day and it looks like a new boat. Apparently they take care of it better than I do mine…
Bpb
On Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 4:42 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Lee
I would advise against scuppers that go through the rail. My previous boat had that setup. There was always a dark stain down the topsides where water drained. The windward side didn't drain well when under sail either.ÂRich
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The same owner I bought my 424 sloop from owned that boat first he did not like the ketch so he ordered the 1979 sloop which i bought it’s name @ time of purchase was peejay omg so I changed it to THISISIT.He passed away just after I finished this is it allthough we all know that it is not completed we all come up with different thing to do add anougher $$$$$1000.00 then another LOL!!
Don
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