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Anyone have an estimate on what they spent on materials for fairing,
priming, and painting the topsides (deck, spars, and hull above water line)?Pete
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Hi Pete, My spars were hand painted (poorly) by PO
I just did both spars and all spreaders. 14 sheets of 80 grit + 6 sheets 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Four 3M fine sanding sponges.2qt’s Interlux brightside ( i opted not to go all the way to bare metal) this gave me 2 coats throughout 2 cans of 3331 x 3in quality brush (already had a 1.5in for the tight spots)total of materials $168.32lots of hours did not keep trackFinished product is acceptable (200 x better than what I had)
EricNavasana, Hull #70— On Thu, 3/25/10, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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I had my spars blasted and painted with AlexSeal 501. I patched corrosion
area and bolt holes with Belzona.
http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php
<http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php>http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx<http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx>The Belzona was easy to work with, but
cured fast.All of this was expensive. If you have experience with a spray gun and
adequate facilities you might get similar or better results yourself. My
finish is about an 8 out of 10, but I was not willing to pay for the labor
to get to a 10 finish (lots and lots of fill and sanding) and I did not have
the facilities or skill to do it myself.-=p
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 1:25 PM, Eric Lorentzon <> wrote:
Quote:Hi Pete, My spars were hand painted (poorly) by PO
I just did both spars and all spreaders. 14 sheets of 80 grit + 6 sheets
400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Four 3M fine sanding sponges.2qt’s Interlux
brightside ( i opted not to go all the way to bare metal) this gave me 2
coats throughout 2 cans of 3331 x 3in quality brush (already had a 1.5in for
the tight spots)total of materials $168.32lots of hours did not keep
trackFinished product is acceptable (200 x better than what I had)
EricNavasana, Hull #70— On Thu, 3/25/10, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Thanks Patrick. Do you recall which of the many Belzona products you
used and where do you get it?Thanks,
Pete
On 3/26/2010 4:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:I had my spars blasted and painted with AlexSeal 501. I patched corrosion
area and bolt holes with Belzona.
http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php
<http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php>http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx<http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx>The Belzona was easy to work with, but
cured fast.All of this was expensive. If you have experience with a spray gun and
adequate facilities you might get similar or better results yourself. My
finish is about an 8 out of 10, but I was not willing to pay for the labor
to get to a 10 finish (lots and lots of fill and sanding) and I did not have
the facilities or skill to do it myself.-=p
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 1:25 PM, Eric Lorentzon<> wrote:
Quote:Hi Pete, My spars were hand painted (poorly) by PO
I just did both spars and all spreaders. 14 sheets of 80 grit + 6 sheets
400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Four 3M fine sanding sponges.2qt’s Interlux
brightside ( i opted not to go all the way to bare metal) this gave me 2
coats throughout 2 cans of 3331 x 3in quality brush (already had a 1.5in for
the tight spots)total of materials $168.32lots of hours did not keep
trackFinished product is acceptable (200 x better than what I had)
EricNavasana, Hull #70— On Thu, 3/25/10, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
<.. snip>
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I got a pic of that: Belzona 1111 Super Metal
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4232509670/<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4232509670/>The yard had it and
provided me with some. You’d have to see where to get it locally. It’s at
least $150 for the 1kg size seen in that photo.-p
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 3:57 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
Quote:Thanks Patrick. Do you recall which of the many Belzona products you used
and where do you get it?Thanks,
Pete
On 3/26/2010 4:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:I had my spars blasted and painted with AlexSeal 501. I patched corrosion
area and bolt holes with Belzona.
http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php
<http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php>http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx<http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx>The Belzona was easy to work with,
but
cured fast.All of this was expensive. If you have experience with a spray gun and
adequate facilities you might get similar or better results yourself. My
finish is about an 8 out of 10, but I was not willing to pay for the labor
to get to a 10 finish (lots and lots of fill and sanding) and I did not
have
the facilities or skill to do it myself.-=p
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 1:25 PM, Eric Lorentzon<>
wrote:Quote:Hi Pete, My spars were hand painted (poorly) by PO
I just did both spars and all spreaders. 14 sheets of 80 grit + 6 sheets
400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Four 3M fine sanding sponges.2qt’s Interlux
brightside ( i opted not to go all the way to bare metal) this gave me 2
coats throughout 2 cans of 3331 x 3in quality brush (already had a 1.5in
for
the tight spots)total of materials $168.32lots of hours did not keep
trackFinished product is acceptable (200 x better than what I had)
EricNavasana, Hull #70— On Thu, 3/25/10, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Thanks.
On 3/26/2010 5:21 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:I got a pic of that: Belzona 1111 Super Metal
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4232509670/<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4232509670/>The yard had it and
provided me with some. You’d have to see where to get it locally. It’s at
least $150 for the 1kg size seen in that photo.-p
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 3:57 PM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
Quote:Thanks Patrick. Do you recall which of the many Belzona products you used
and where do you get it?Thanks,
Pete
On 3/26/2010 4:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:I had my spars blasted and painted with AlexSeal 501. I patched corrosion
area and bolt holes with Belzona.
http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php
<http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php>http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx<http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx>The Belzona was easy to work with,
but
cured fast.All of this was expensive. If you have experience with a spray gun and
adequate facilities you might get similar or better results yourself. My
finish is about an 8 out of 10, but I was not willing to pay for the labor
to get to a 10 finish (lots and lots of fill and sanding) and I did not
have
the facilities or skill to do it myself.-=p
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 1:25 PM, Eric Lorentzon<>
wrote:Quote:Hi Pete, My spars were hand painted (poorly) by PO
I just did both spars and all spreaders. 14 sheets of 80 grit + 6 sheets
400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Four 3M fine sanding sponges.2qt’s Interlux
brightside ( i opted not to go all the way to bare metal) this gave me 2
coats throughout 2 cans of 3331 x 3in quality brush (already had a 1.5in
for
the tight spots)total of materials $168.32lots of hours did not keep
trackFinished product is acceptable (200 x better than what I had)
EricNavasana, Hull #70— On Thu, 3/25/10, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
<.. snip>
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I wonder if you folks have a lot more time than me. I hand painted my
spars about 10 years ago. They had chipped. The primer was showing
through, and they generall looked like crap from a hundred yards away. I
lightly sanded and applied a coat of 1-part polyurithane paint. What a
difference it made! If you got real close, you could see brush-marks, but
from 10 feet it looked as good as any spray-job. Oddly, you can only see
about the bottom 15 feet of the spar closer than 10 feet even if you get
your nose right up to the mast 😉 The boom is covered when at anchor,
leaving only a few short feet for a nosey nighbor to see even if they come
aboard. When under sail, nobody notices brush marks. The 1-part paint
lasts about 5 years or so. Then it has to be renewed. I can paint my main
mast and boom in about 4 hours with a brush. If the teak were this easy, I
wouldn’t be moaning about it.I was just kidding about using house paint on the teak. I’ve been tempted
though. It seems that I spend half my maintenace time on the brightwork.
I’ve tried all kinds of products. Nothing looks good after the first year.
I have better things to do than sand, clean, paint, repeat.Rich
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I know that my teak has leaks. It sure has gouges. And I’m sure I need to
re-bed everything on the caprails. So, I thought to myself, “Why not
replace it?” It can’t be that hard – but what with? There’s UHMW plastic or
HDPE (which will change colors in the sun to a lovely tan) or ipe (E-pay) a
very hard tropical, theoretically sustainable, wood that weathers to a light
gray and is almost impossible to damage. It is also very reasonably priced
as decking.Other than the difficulty to work with, it has a tendency to run red when
new. After that, though, it seems like a good choice. I mean, marinas have
decks made out of it.Any thoughts?
Plastic, of course, is far easier to use, much harder to seal because
nothing sticks to it, but lasts forever. Downside is expense and it’s very
easily damaged.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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I’m looking at that now – it looks as if you could use one piece for the
whole ‘L’ shape if milled properly…Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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