Forums General Discussion [pearson424] shower sump & sea-chest

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    • #66847
      Anonymous

      Hi Bob,

      I’ve already done what you describe for the shower sump – a simple strainer and pump, with the switch by the shower stall – and I’m happy with it. It only lacks a plastic grate in the stall to keep my feet out of the water that puddles in the shower pan between sumps.

      I am also of the same mind regarding the PVC seachest. I believe I first saw one in Steve Dashew’s “Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia” – he used to put them in his innovative Sundeer boats. Recycling the old Pearson sump box just seemed like a handier way to go when I got to that project on my list, but now I’m not so sure. I have already used PVC plumbing for various other applications in the boat and like the medium in general.

      Tor


      Silver Heels, P-424 #17
      http://www.SilverHeels.us



      Original Message


      From: Robert Fine
      Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 5:21 PM
      To: Mailing List
      Subject: Re: [pearson424] shower sump & sea-chest – Epilogue

      Hi Tor,

      I like your idea, but I think I’ll make my seachest out of 6″ PVC pipe with endcaps -Someone else here did something similar.

      I’m thinking of taking the sump out altogether as a simple strainer and pump would be far more useful. I have the switch in the head anyway since there’s no automatic float in the sump. Also, it would give me much better access to the bilge now that I put a holding tank in there.

      Bob

      On Fri, Mar 7, 2008 at 5:12 PM, Silver Heels

      Paul,

      This afternoon I tried out my seachest, converted from the old shower sump box. Boy, you were right about the water
      pressure (2 emails below)! That rigid lid in which I had such confidence bulged up noticeably when I opened the seacock
      and pressurized the box. Everything held and the system works as intended, but now I’m not comfortable with the strength
      of it for the long term. I’ll either beef up the box & lid with additional fiberglass, or just scrap that altogether and
      build something more substantial from scratch.

      Tor


      Silver Heels, P-424 #17
      http://www.SilverHeels.us



      Original Message


      From: Silver Heels
      Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 1:19 PM
      To: Mailing List
      Subject: RE: [pearson424] shower sump & sea-chest

      Hey Paul,

      I believe it was Hans Solo who said, “Never tell me the odds!”

      I intentionally placed the thru-hull for the intake seachest down low so that it would produce positive water
      pressure,
      thinking this would assist all systems to draw more easily and have an ample supply of water flowing back into the
      seachest. The intake is also forward of all discharge thru-hulls to help insure it draws clean water. The fiberglass
      sump box in my boat is pretty hefty. No way the water pressure you describe is going to break it. It’d take a
      hard blow
      with a small sledge to do that. The lid is 1/8″ solid ‘glass, perfectly rigid, and secured by about 30 screws. I think
      it’ll suit admirably, but the proof will be in the use. I’ll let you know how it all works out.

      Tor


      Silver Heels, P-424 #17
      http://www.SilverHeels.us



      Original Message


      From: Paul Lefebvre
      Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 12:56 PM
      To: Mailing List
      Subject: RE: [pearson424] shower sump & sea-chest

      Tor:

      While it looks like you have already done most of the work on the shower
      drain, you may find one of the following of interest. I recently purchased
      on of these as my hose fittings on the hold sump had failed. Being self
      contained, along with a float switch, means you can leave it always on and
      never have to worry about the shower drain. The pump inside is a low cost
      Rule bilge pump, so replacement when it breaks should be pretty easy.

      http://www.boatersland.com/ru97shdrkit.html

      The work you have down on the sea-chest looks good and that looks like a
      great way to reuse the old fiberglass shower sump. However, the engineer in
      me isn’t very comfortable using a component designed to be at atmospheric
      pressure as a pressure vessel. Even if it only saw a 3 ft head of water,
      this would generate 1.5 psi pressure With the cover at 8″ x 15″ or 120
      square inches, this would generate 180 lbs of pressure on the cover. It may
      even be more than this in healed or high waves. This unit may be able to
      withstand this, but it is almost 30 years old and it does now have 7 or 8
      new 1″ holes in it.

      Hopefully it holds well when you check it out in the near future.

      Paul
      Boundless #28

      From: “Silver Heels” tor@silverheels.us)>
      Reply-To: Mailing List
      To:
      Subject: [pearson424] shower sump & seachest
      Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 11:10:22 -0500

      Good day Bob,

      The shower sump pump had died some time in the past and the PO, lazy…
      fellow that he was, simply allowed the shower to drain into the bilge. This
      is a practice more common than you might suppose, but one I have never
      tolerated on my own boats. I plumbed the shower drain directly to a 12-v
      water pump (with an inline strainer just before it) mounted at the bottom
      of
      the locker beneath the head sink, and from there overboard. I have to
      switch
      on the sump pump several times in the course of showering, when water
      begins
      to puddle in the shower pan, but I located the switch just outside the
      shower stall so it’s easy to reach it. I’m looking for some kind of plastic
      grating to set down in the shower stall, raised up an inch or so off the
      sole, to keep my delicate toes out of the water that puddles in between
      sumps, but I’m basically happy with the set up even now.

      The intake seachest draws from a dedicated thru-hull that I installed about
      6″ forward and lower than the box. It feeds everything in the boat that
      uses
      seawater except the engine, which has it’s own, dedicated seacock. I must
      say, though, that I have not actually sealed and tested this seachest yet.
      Soon. It’s on the list.
      Tor


      Silver Heels, P-424 #17
      http://www.SilverHeels.us



      Original Message


      From: Robert Fine
      Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 10:01 AM
      To: Mailing List
      Subject: Re: [pearson424] Raw Water strainer placement

      Hi Tor,

      Where does your shower drain now? Also, where does the water for the
      sea
      chest come from?

      Thanks,

      Bob

      On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 9:34 AM, Silver Heels tor@silverheels.us)> wrote:

      Eric,

      I moved my raw water strainer from it’s original position. Where it
      was
      blocked access to the shower sump box, which I converted to a seawater
      intake seachest (although I left the engine’s raw water intake separate,
      with it’s own seacock). As you can see in the attached photo I only moved
      the Groco off to the side. That worked out well.
      Tor


      Silver Heels, P-424 #17
      http://www.SilverHeels.us



      Original Message


      From: Eric Lorentzon
      Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 8:31 AM
      To: Mailing List
      Subject: [pearson424] Raw Water strainer placement

      Hi Folks –
      I am replacing the simple in-line water strainer (oem) on my ’79
      424.
      Looking for advice on placement / mounting for the Perko that just arrived
      from Santa – or maybe it was an early easterbunny dropping…..Also should
      I
      replace the raw water intake while it is out of the water too – it is OEM
      as
      well.

      Thanks –
      Eric
      “Navasana” #70


      Bob Fine
      Fine Software LLC
      Your data on the web your way. No kidding


      Bob Fine
      Fine Software LLC
      Your data on the web your way. No kidding

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