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I think I’ve finally chased down the reason the engine has been excessively hot in places. I’ve checked out the engine temp in several places with an infrared gun and found uneven temps. I pulled one of the hoses and sludge came out. I assume that this is keeping the water circ less than desirable. Can anyone recommend a good cleaner so that I can douche out the cooling system? I’ve heard of some type of acid as well as a less volatile options, but I haven’t chased down anything specific yet.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu -
You can go to an automotive store and get the stuff they use – radiator
flush.Bob
On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:25 PM, kalinowski <>wrote:
I think I’ve finally chased down the reason the engine has been excessively
hot in places. I’ve checked out the engine temp in several places with an
infrared gun and found uneven temps. I pulled one of the hoses and sludge
came out. I assume that this is keeping the water circ less than desirable.
Can anyone recommend a good cleaner so that I can douche out the cooling
system? I’ve heard of some type of acid as well as a less volatile options,
but I haven’t chased down anything specific yet.Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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There is a product that is sold at West Marine as well as other places
called salt away, or something like that. It’s used to flush out outboard
engines. If you draw it through your strainer and let it sit over night, it
will help clean out a lot of salt deposits in the heat exchanger and
increase flow through the system.Jack
XanaduOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:25 PM, kalinowski <>wrote:
I think I’ve finally chased down the reason the engine has been excessively
hot in places. I’ve checked out the engine temp in several places with an
infrared gun and found uneven temps. I pulled one of the hoses and sludge
came out. I assume that this is keeping the water circ less than desirable.
Can anyone recommend a good cleaner so that I can douche out the cooling
system? I’ve heard of some type of acid as well as a less volatile options,
but I haven’t chased down anything specific yet.Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
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Is this the fresh water side or raw?
On Aug 16, 2010 6:08 PM, “Jack P Clarke” <> wrote:
There is a product that is sold at West Marine as well as other places
called salt away, or something like that. It’s used to flush out outboard
engines. If you draw it through your strainer and let it sit over night,it
will help clean out a lot of salt deposits in the heat exchanger and
increase flow through the system.Jack
XanaduOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:25 PM, kalinowski <
wrote:I think I’ve finally chased down the reason the engine has been
excessively
hot in places. I’ve checked out the engine temp in several places with an
infrared gun and found uneven temps. I pulled one of the hoses and sludge
came out. I assume that this is keeping the water circ less thandesirable.
Can anyone recommend a good cleaner so that I can douche out the cooling
system? I’ve heard of some type of acid as well as a less volatileoptions,
but I haven’t chased down anything specific yet.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Sorry Guys, This is the fresh water side. You just close the sea cock,
disconnect the hose , dip it into a bucket and pour the stuff in and start
up the engine until you see it coming out the exhaust. Keep the fluid level
up so that you have enough fluid going into the engine. Just the same as
winterizing an engine in cold climates. Not that too many of you would know
about cold climates. Just kidding.Jack
XanaduOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 6:16 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Is this the fresh water side or raw?
On Aug 16, 2010 6:08 PM, “Jack P Clarke” <> wrote:
There is a product that is sold at West Marine as well as other places
called salt away, or something like that. It’s used to flush out outboard
engines. If you draw it through your strainer and let it sit over night,it
will help clean out a lot of salt deposits in the heat exchanger and
increase flow through the system.Jack
XanaduOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:25 PM, kalinowski <
wrote:I think I’ve finally chased down the reason the engine has been
excessively
hot in places. I’ve checked out the engine temp in several places with
an
infrared gun and found uneven temps. I pulled one of the hoses and
sludge
came out. I assume that this is keeping the water circ less than
desirable.
Can anyone recommend a good cleaner so that I can douche out the cooling
system? I’ve heard of some type of acid as well as a less volatileoptions,
but I haven’t chased down anything specific yet.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
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I’m sorry again, it’s the raw water side.
On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Jack P Clarke <> wrote:
Sorry Guys, This is the fresh water side. You just close the sea cock,
disconnect the hose , dip it into a bucket and pour the stuff in and start
up the engine until you see it coming out the exhaust. Keep the fluid level
up so that you have enough fluid going into the engine. Just the same as
winterizing an engine in cold climates. Not that too many of you would know
about cold climates. Just kidding.Jack
XanaduOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 6:16 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Is this the fresh water side or raw?
On Aug 16, 2010 6:08 PM, “Jack P Clarke” <> wrote:
There is a product that is sold at West Marine as well as other places
called salt away, or something like that. It’s used to flush outoutboard
engines. If you draw it through your strainer and let it sit over night,
it
will help clean out a lot of salt deposits in the heat exchanger and
increase flow through the system.Jack
XanaduOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:25 PM, kalinowski <
wrote:I think I’ve finally chased down the reason the engine has been
excessively
hot in places. I’ve checked out the engine temp in several places with
an
infrared gun and found uneven temps. I pulled one of the hoses and
sludge
came out. I assume that this is keeping the water circ less than
desirable.
Can anyone recommend a good cleaner so that I can douche out the
cooling
system? I’ve heard of some type of acid as well as a less volatile
options,
but I haven’t chased down anything specific yet.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Dan-
I think that there is a strong possibility that the sludge is corroded aluminum, perhaps from the thermostat housing and the watercooled exhaust manifold. If it’s like the W-58 I took apart in the garage, the crud is mostly in the t-stat housing and the freshwater circulation pump, and maybe clogging the freshwater side of the heat exchanger.
If you use some chemicals, be sure they are safe with aluminum.
Quent -
Hello,
I too have noticed that my engine is running hotter as I head south…I
worked through the system and noticed that my heat exchanger had some sea
grass and a build up of scale. I’ll try the West Marine stuff and see how
that works.I recall a similar conversation some time back and someone recommended
boiling the heat exchanger in muric acid. If adding this West Marine stuff
this is an easier solution, then it beats having to remove the exchanger
(and drain all the coolant). After cleaning out the gunk…things seam to
be better. We have long motor sail to the Cape Cod canal tomorrow…that
will be the test. I will have to remove the scale at some point, as I am
heading towards warmer waters and I’ll need a more efficient heat exchanger.Thanks for the tips.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME_______________________________________________
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My problem is in the fresh water side. I had the heat exchanger cleaned, put in a new water pump (needed), added a new thermostat and sender unit. The engine still slowly heats up to 200+ after about 30 minutes. I finally pulled a hose and checked and out oozed some sludge. The raw water side works great. I am wondering if someone might have a recommendation on a good fresh water system cleaner.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu -
When I was on the delivery of the 54′ Betram last month, we found oil in the
coolant when stopped for a 50 hour service on a rebuilt engine. The Detroit
Diesel solution to flush system was Calgon. This emulsified the oil and
dissolved deposits in the system. Of course this was an 850 HP V-12 not a
54 HP 4 cylinder engine.
Still this might be the cheaper alternative to Salt Away.John,
Was Indulgence the 424 I saw on a mooring in Belfast a few weeks ago?
That is a long trip to Cape Code from Maine. On that Bertram we made it in
about 12 hours, but that was throttled back to 13 kts to save the owner a
little on fuel costs.On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 10:53 PM, John Sommer <> wrote:
Hello,
I too have noticed that my engine is running hotter as I head south…I
worked through the system and noticed that my heat exchanger had some sea
grass and a build up of scale. I’ll try the West Marine stuff and see how
that works.I recall a similar conversation some time back and someone recommended
boiling the heat exchanger in muric acid. If adding this West Marine stuff
this is an easier solution, then it beats having to remove the exchanger
(and drain all the coolant). After cleaning out the gunk…things seam to
be better. We have long motor sail to the Cape Cod canal tomorrow…that
will be the test. I will have to remove the scale at some point, as I am
heading towards warmer waters and I’ll need a more efficient heat exchanger.Thanks for the tips.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Here’s what I’ve found with the heat exchangers both on Pelican and other
boats I’m working on: The dissolved zincs end up plugging the tubes. A
small threaded rod makes a very nice cleaning tool that can do what removal
and boiling can or flushing or whatever quickly and efficiently. Just be
gentle.It only takes a few minutes.
Bob
On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 10:53 PM, John Sommer <> wrote:
Hello,
I too have noticed that my engine is running hotter as I head south…I
worked through the system and noticed that my heat exchanger had some sea
grass and a build up of scale. I’ll try the West Marine stuff and see how
that works.I recall a similar conversation some time back and someone recommended
boiling the heat exchanger in muric acid. If adding this West Marine stuff
this is an easier solution, then it beats having to remove the exchanger
(and drain all the coolant). After cleaning out the gunk…things seam to
be better. We have long motor sail to the Cape Cod canal tomorrow…that
will be the test. I will have to remove the scale at some point, as I am
heading towards warmer waters and I’ll need a more efficient heat exchanger.Thanks for the tips.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Any flush from an auto parts store.
Bob
On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 11:18 PM, kalinowski <>wrote:
My problem is in the fresh water side. I had the heat exchanger cleaned,
put in a new water pump (needed), added a new thermostat and sender unit.
The engine still slowly heats up to 200+ after about 30 minutes. I finally
pulled a hose and checked and out oozed some sludge. The raw water side
works great. I am wondering if someone might have a recommendation on a
good fresh water system cleaner.Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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John,
Boat you saw was “Bead Game” out of the Bronx. They were in Belfast around
the same time. We met up with them at the SSCA Gam in Isleboro. I ran into
another 424 while cruising Maine, Juno. This used to be Veritas…It is now
owned by a Sweedish couple (he is a yacht designer is Sweeden). They cruise
New England every summer.Bob,
Thanks for the tip…any suggestion on the Rod? The passages are very
small….I don’t want use a piece of coat hanger as I am sure the passages
are pretty thin copper.John
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hi John,
I used 6-32 rod from Home Depot – just be careful. Don’t force anything.
But that’s for the raw water side. The freshwater side needs flushing
agents.Bob
On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 7:57 AM, John Sommer <> wrote:
Quote:John,Boat you saw was “Bead Game” out of the Bronx. They were in Belfast around
the same time. We met up with them at the SSCA Gam in Isleboro. I ran into
another 424 while cruising Maine, Juno. This used to be Veritas…It is now
owned by a Sweedish couple (he is a yacht designer is Sweeden). They cruise
New England every summer.Bob,
Thanks for the tip…any suggestion on the Rod? The passages are very
small….I don’t want use a piece of coat hanger as I am sure the passages
are pretty thin copper.John
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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If you clean out your V-drive cooling jacket, flakes of crud can find their way into the heat exchanger unless you are very careful. Routine service of the heat exchanger is suggested, every decade or so it should go out to be cleaned and checked. If you have an oil-cooler or transmission cooler, it should go out too. If they are on the freshwater side, service can be less frequent.
Watch for broken water pump impeller vanes in the cooling system. They occasionally break off and can wedge in there somewhere causing a water flow problem.
Rich
Original Message
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You gotta love the easy fixes!
-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 21, 2010, at 13:53, “John Sommer” <> wrote:
Quote:Turns out my “hot” running engine was due to stuck thermometer….I picked up a NAPA #139….the boat is now running 180.John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
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Quent: I had previously replaced the thermostat with a NAPA one and she ran great (170-180). The uneven cooling started after that. I wonder if it might be zinc sludge. When I pulled the heat exchanger for cleaning, the zinc that was in there was half gone. My engine guy mentioned something about a powerful cleaner that can unclog the passage. I will share the brand name once I find out what he’s going to use.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu -
The NAPA #139 sure looks like the right thermostat. Here is a picture of it on a Brit web site.
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/585475/Pulling_an_MGC_s_head catI guess this is more evidence that the base engine is by Perkins.
Could be zinc pieces, parts from old water pump impellers,or just misc. debris in the heat exchanger tubes. Harbor Freight has some tube brushes ideal for cleaning them out. I took off the ends then pulled the brush through with a piece of ss siezing wire. Be careful of the end parts of the heat exchanger. The original bolts were brass and dependent on the zinc to stay intact. Inspect them carefully before you reuse them. The ends seal with round gaskets and o-rings around the bolt. Don’t tighten the bolts too much or the end covers will crack.
Quent
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