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Ok, so for you not in the northeast this summer, we've had about 7 weeks of rain now. Not just gentle rains, but roaring, drenching, mind boggling rains.
One of my portlights started to leak. I thought it was the gasket, but no amount of tightening would stop it. Guess what? It was leaking around the glass.
In taking the portlight apart, I broke the glass (not surprising) and am having bronzed safety glass replacements made (for all 6, how cool is that?)
Anyway, there are about 100 different suggestions for rebedding the glass. I'm actually thinking of using regular glazing putty (I think that's what they were originally bedded with). The glass guy says use silicone (horror of horrors). Silicone is a compressive gasket, not a bonding one. So I'm not sure about that.
Then there's polysulfide. And the polyurethane/silicone, and polysulfide/silicone and God knows what else.
What have any of you used and are you happy with it? The regular glazing putty should last for many years and is easy to replace (as opposed with all the other stuff).
Anyway, if 10 of you answer, I expect either a clear winner or 11 opinions….
Thanks in advance,
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Bob,
Sorry about the new, totally unwanted, portlight project.
I haven't had to take my port lights apart (yet) so I don't really know what you are dealing with. First I assume this is one of the fixed ports with tempered glass. Isn't the compression seal on the glass provided by the barrel bolts (I assume that's what they are) in frame? If so you should have the necessary compression for a good seal with silicone and not need an adhesive sealant. Other than that I think you're right, glazing putty should work. I think the glass and plastics guys like silicone because it is not a strong adhesive (less work to fix their screw-ups), but also because it has a coefficient of expansion that is more compatible with glass and plastic than the other choices. Anyway that's what a plastics guy explained to me when he recommended I use GE SilPruf to bed the portlights on my previous boat. I don't know if he really knew his stuff or not, but those portlights (acrylic screwed into the cabin trunk – hence good compression) never leaked for over 15 years. I haven't received any complaints from the current owner so I guess they've lasted another 10 years.On Mon, Aug 3, 2009 at 5:59 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Ok, so for you not in the northeast this summer, we've had about 7 weeks of rain now. Not just gentle rains, but roaring, drenching, mind boggling rains.
One of my portlights started to leak. I thought it was the gasket, but no amount of tightening would stop it. Guess what? It was leaking around the glass.
In taking the portlight apart, I broke the glass (not surprising) and am having bronzed safety glass replacements made (for all 6, how cool is that?)
Anyway, there are about 100 different suggestions for rebedding the glass. I'm actually thinking of using regular glazing putty (I think that's what they were originally bedded with). The glass guy says use silicone (horror of horrors). Silicone is a compressive gasket, not a bonding one. So I'm not sure about that.
Then there's polysulfide. And the polyurethane/silicone, and polysulfide/silicone and God knows what else.
What have any of you used and are you happy with it? The regular glazing putty should last for many years and is easy to replace (as opposed with all the other stuff).
Anyway, if 10 of you answer, I expect either a clear winner or 11 opinions….
Thanks in advance,
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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BTW, it's also raining down here in NC. We had a tornado warning up for an hour or so yesterday afternoon.
On Mon, Aug 3, 2009 at 6:25 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bob,
Sorry about the new, totally unwanted, portlight project.
I haven't had to take my port lights apart (yet) so I don't really know what you are dealing with. First I assume this is one of the fixed ports with tempered glass. Isn't the compression seal on the glass provided by the barrel bolts (I assume that's what they are) in frame? If so you should have the necessary compression for a good seal with silicone and not need an adhesive sealant. Other than that I think you're right, glazing putty should work. I think the glass and plastics guys like silicone because it is not a strong adhesive (less work to fix their screw-ups), but also because it has a coefficient of expansion that is more compatible with glass and plastic than the other choices. Anyway that's what a plastics guy explained to me when he recommended I use GE SilPruf to bed the portlights on my previous boat. I don't know if he really knew his stuff or not, but those portlights (acrylic screwed into the cabin trunk – hence good compression) never leaked for over 15 years. I haven't received any complaints from the current owner so I guess they've lasted another 10 years.On Mon, Aug 3, 2009 at 5:59 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Ok, so for you not in the northeast this summer, we've had about 7 weeks of rain now. Not just gentle rains, but roaring, drenching, mind boggling rains.
One of my portlights started to leak. I thought it was the gasket, but no amount of tightening would stop it. Guess what? It was leaking around the glass.
In taking the portlight apart, I broke the glass (not surprising) and am having bronzed safety glass replacements made (for all 6, how cool is that?)
Anyway, there are about 100 different suggestions for rebedding the glass. I'm actually thinking of using regular glazing putty (I think that's what they were originally bedded with). The glass guy says use silicone (horror of horrors). Silicone is a compressive gasket, not a bonding one. So I'm not sure about that.
Then there's polysulfide. And the polyurethane/silicone, and polysulfide/silicone and God knows what else.
What have any of you used and are you happy with it? The regular glazing putty should last for many years and is easy to replace (as opposed with all the other stuff).
Anyway, if 10 of you answer, I expect either a clear winner or 11 opinions….
Thanks in advance,
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hi John,
I wish it were so easy – it's the opening portlights (portholes?). Anyway, the glass in them is just regular old 1/4″ glass. Glass doesn't expand and contract that much. Plastic is another story.
Here's the thing: I've seen houses fall apart around their windows and the very last thing to go is the darn glazing compound. It's also easy to repair and rebed. I think I'll search the Internet to see what Bomar used in the 1970s, besides LSD…
Bob
On Mon, Aug 3, 2009 at 6:25 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bob,
Sorry about the new, totally unwanted, portlight project.
I haven't had to take my port lights apart (yet) so I don't really know what you are dealing with. First I assume this is one of the fixed ports with tempered glass. Isn't the compression seal on the glass provided by the barrel bolts (I assume that's what they are) in frame? If so you should have the necessary compression for a good seal with silicone and not need an adhesive sealant. Other than that I think you're right, glazing putty should work. I think the glass and plastics guys like silicone because it is not a strong adhesive (less work to fix their screw-ups), but also because it has a coefficient of expansion that is more compatible with glass and plastic than the other choices. Anyway that's what a plastics guy explained to me when he recommended I use GE SilPruf to bed the portlights on my previous boat. I don't know if he really knew his stuff or not, but those portlights (acrylic screwed into the cabin trunk – hence good compression) never leaked for over 15 years. I haven't received any complaints from the current owner so I guess they've lasted another 10 years.On Mon, Aug 3, 2009 at 5:59 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Ok, so for you not in the northeast this summer, we've had about 7 weeks of rain now. Not just gentle rains, but roaring, drenching, mind boggling rains.
One of my portlights started to leak. I thought it was the gasket, but no amount of tightening would stop it. Guess what? It was leaking around the glass.
In taking the portlight apart, I broke the glass (not surprising) and am having bronzed safety glass replacements made (for all 6, how cool is that?)
Anyway, there are about 100 different suggestions for rebedding the glass. I'm actually thinking of using regular glazing putty (I think that's what they were originally bedded with). The glass guy says use silicone (horror of horrors). Silicone is a compressive gasket, not a bonding one. So I'm not sure about that.
Then there's polysulfide. And the polyurethane/silicone, and polysulfide/silicone and God knows what else.
What have any of you used and are you happy with it? The regular glazing putty should last for many years and is easy to replace (as opposed with all the other stuff).
Anyway, if 10 of you answer, I expect either a clear winner or 11 opinions….
Thanks in advance,
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Bob
There are several port types that Pearson used. I have four small aluminum frame portlights that open. I restored them about ten years ago using marguard, a scratch resistent polycarbonate. I bed the plastic with 3M4200. I’ll be doing it again soon, probably this winter. The gaskets need replacement and while the’re out I’ll restore them. Bowmar used silkaflex (sp?).Here’s what I did to restore them. I pulled them out and saved the fasteners. I ran a tap through the holes on the blind side to clean out the old goop. I ran them through a wire brush on a bench grinder and polished the frames. I pulled out the gaskets and glass. Once clean, I cut replacement plastic pieces and put them in place. I cut back the paper backing on the plastic to expose only the plastic section that is inside the frame. I used window gasket material to fill in the space because the plastic is thinner than the glass. I used caulk to bed the plastic in place too. I used white silicone sealant to bed the port frame into the coach roof.
One of the portlights started leaking last winter and the moisture damaged the teak coachroof. I cut the damaged section out with a multi-tool saw and rebedded the frame. The gasket needs replacement however so I’ll do the rest this winter. Photo of the repair attached.
Nothing lasts forever. Ten years isn’t bad.
Rich
BlackSheepQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hi Rich,
Very nice job – I'm getting safety glass (bronzed) cut today at $14. per which seems like a good deal to me. I'm not sure what window gasket material you're talking about, unless it's the rolls of stuff you purchase at Home Depot.
I have 6 of those portholes and so the job will be bigger – there's no leaking around the portholes so I'm going to leave that as is. I replaced the gaskets last year with 3/8″ x 3/8″ rubber which works like a charm. I removed the old glass (breaking it in the process) and use a wire wheel on my drill. It does a good job of removing the goop.
None of my other portholes leak and I think it's because the glass is bedded with regular glazing compound which I can see is getting tired – for 30 years, that's not too shabby. This porthole that leaked had some kind of polyurethane or silicone. I just don't trust silicone against smooth glass.
Anyway, using 4200 means it will be a devil to get apart if I ever have to do it again…
Sikaflex does make a product for bedding glass. I may use that, too. I'm going to do some research on the matter – I mean for hundreds of years they bedded portholes without the modern stuff…
Thanks!
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hi Rich,
I purchased it from McMaster-Carr – they will cut rubber to any width in certain thicknesses – I had them do 3/8″ wide of, guess what, 3/8″ thick rubber – I bought 30 or 60 feet of it (I forget which, but I have a mess left over).
If I can find the page or receipt I'll send a copy off to you.
Bob
On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 9:10 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob
Where did you get the 3/8 gasket?
Rich
Original Message
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When I repainted and replaced the lens in the bomar hatches they recommended 3m ultraglaze I had a hard time finding it locally but found it on the internet. If you use it be aware that it is crazy sticky. Lots of gloves, paper towels and paint thinner. It is very difficult to tool. I taped of the second and third try and trimmed them with a razor for a better finish.
Linus
<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hi Rich,
Here's the product: http://www.mcmaster.com/#5508t43/=31k25q – 3/8 x 3/8 red silicone rubber gasket. I purchased 25 feet, I think.
Bob
On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 11:46 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob
I found their website, but they have a zillion different types of gasket. If you can remeber what you bought it would save me a lot of trouble.Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Good for you! Remember to adjust the screws at the top of the portholes so that the gasket meets parallel to the frame.
You shouldn't have to crank down the thumbscrews to get a seal – it should be very easy.
Bob
On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 2:00 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob
Thanks
I ordered 25 feet too.
Rich
Original Message
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