Propeller Shaft Drawing

[madsailor]

I need to change my propeller shaft and need to have a drawing of it if it exists – Taper, taper length, full shaft length (I know the diameter). I’d like to have it ready when the shaft is removed so I don’t have to wait for all that.

Also, if you know the dimensions of the cutlass bearing, that would also be appreciated.

I have the stock 3 blade propeller.

Thanks!

Bob

[cstewart]

Bob. I just had a new shaft installed last week and the invoice says 1 1/2 x 66 ss shaft and (1) Walter style coupling. That’s all. When the shaft got to Key West (via fedex) the mechanic had to cut about an inch off the taper to fit the Max-prop. The old shaft was bronze and had two bends in it from a wrap in a jib sheet. I had just spent two weeks in Cuba and fouled the prop just as I was approaching the Key West sea buoy. I don’t know if that’s lucky or unlucky. Either way it was expensive, and an unexpected week on the hard. 

Charlie

sv/OneEighty, #54

[madsailor]

Thanks, Charlie.

I plan on replacing mine with Monel.  It's far more resistant to corrosion and should last the life of the boat.  It's not as susceptible to chloride crack corrosion (where a low oxygen, high chloride environment causes intergrain boundaries to corrode).

At 1.5″, I'm pretty sure the shaft will be plenty strong. 

The question is whether the taper is a standard Morse taper or something else.  I'll get with my machinist friend…

Thanks for the length. 

Bob

[ewanoleary]

Charlie,

 

Where did you order the shaft and what did it cost in ss?

 

Ewan

 

 

 

[Tor]

Bob,

 

This info is a few years old:

 

Cutlass Bearing, Brass Casing
Make        Johnson Duramax
Model       Brad
Length      6″
ID          1-1/2″
OD          2-3/8″
Metal Wall  1/8″
$69.99 at http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/products/navalbrassinchcutlessbearing.aspx

 

Good luck,

 

Tor

 

 

 

[madsailor]

Thanks, Tor!  You da man.  I suspect that it hasn't changed in 6 years…  Nothing down below Pelican has changed much!  🙂

Bob

[Tor]

I meant the source and the price, but yes, it’s probably no different.

 

Have fun.

 

 

 

[RichCarter]

I remember reading something about electrolysis problems with monel. I have a spool of mil-spec seizing wire that I don’t use below the water line for this reason.

From Wikibedia
“However, because of the problem of electrolytic action in salt water (also known as Galvanic corrosion), in shipbuilding Monel must be carefully insulated from other metals such as steel. The New York Times of August 12, 1915 published an article about a 215-foot yacht, “the first ship that has ever been built with an entirely Monel hull,” that “went to pieces” in just six weeks and had to be scrapped, “on account of the disintegration of her bottom by electrical action.” The yacht’s steel skeleton deteriorated due to electrolytic interaction with the Monel.[8]”

Rich
—– Original Message —–

[cstewart]

Ewan. 

The shaft was ordered by the yard but so I don’t know who it was from. I know I paid shipping from Tampa. The shaft was $737 but I paid more to get it fit, faced and shipped to KW. 

The work was done by Marine Diesel of Florida Keys on Stock Island. 305-292-2300, Mark de Jong. He is an experienced old salt and expert on the Max-Prop, which I can’t even find in my home port. (Tor, he also is a Yanmar guy).  I’m sure I paid all premium pricing because I was broken down in a strange port. 
Charlie

sv/OneEighty, #54

[madsailor]

Hi Rich,

I'll check this out, but if it's good enough for nuclear power plants it should be ok here.

The reason it's used is because of its resistance to chloride stress corrosion.

But all info welcome. I'll ask my machinst, too.

Thanks,

Bob

[Earlaa]

Also, do you know what type of ss it was?

The monel would be my choice if the type of ss is not correct.

Earl stevens

Sent from my iPad

[unabated]

The 2 shafts I’ve put in, have both been Aquamet 22. I thought that was pretty much standard. Original was bronze. 

Alan

Unabated. 

[skipmac]

I measured the shaft and the taper in detail. It seemed to match the specs of a standard shaft taper I found online. I still have the original bronze shaft.

[madsailor]

I assume there are keyways for the prop and coupling? The measurements would be greatly appreciated.

Bob

[Chuck Ruble]

Shaft measurement is between the beginning of the taper (the wide end) and the coupler face. That’s what the machinist wants to know.
Standard taper, that’s what all prop hubs are.
Aquamet 22 is industry standard. Works.
Always have the coupler faced to the new shaft.
New coupler is cheap. Don’t reuse. Just don’t.
Don’t use split couplers.
New shaft should show up with new nuts.

Max Prop hub requires the last bit to be cut off. If you plan to use a Michigan Sailor or such as a spare remember you can’t get a jam nut on there. Have a hole drilled in the end for a cotter pin. If you one nut loosens up you won’t loose anything. I promise you’ll know when it’s loose. Yes it had a hole for a cotter pin but you cut that off…

If you bent something the alignment needs to be checked. The lip seal on the output end of the v-drive won’t tolerate being out of alignment. It will leak.

Chuck

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