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So I got the tank loose and I’m trying to decide the right next step as it’s
not sliding out due to the wires in the mizzen step and the engine pan, as
well as the Racor laterally. Those of you who slid it out, what all had to
be removed. I should mention I have removed the front of the box holding in
the tank and the angled ramp is what I’m riding on, not the flat section in
the front of the box, i.e., the tank has slid down several inches already.Thanks,
– pTaken by deepplaya http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/6130015395
Sent from my iPhone
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
I had to cut off the fill fitting to make it easier to slide under the mizzen brace.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 9, 2011, at 12:13 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
So I got the tank loose and I’m trying to decide the right next step as it’s
not sliding out due to the wires in the mizzen step and the engine pan, as
well as the Racor laterally. Those of you who slid it out, what all had to
be removed. I should mention I have removed the front of the box holding in
the tank and the angled ramp is what I’m riding on, not the flat section in
the front of the box, i.e., the tank has slid down several inches already.Thanks,
– pTaken by deepplaya http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/6130015395
Sent from my iPhone
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Patrick,
My mechanic had to bevel the forward edge of the mizzen brace. Of course
that was after removing all of the engine wiring and fuel lines.
That soft fuel tank is sounding better and better. I think some of those
designs from the company Quent identified look pretty substantial (most
likely substantially priced as well).
If you are going to replace the tank and not the engine, this sounds like
a job for a sawzall.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 9, 2011 at 3:26 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
I had to cut off the fill fitting to make it easier to slide under the
mizzen brace.Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 9, 2011, at 12:13 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <
> wrote:So I got the tank loose and I’m trying to decide the right next step as
it’s
not sliding out due to the wires in the mizzen step and the engine pan,
as
well as the Racor laterally. Those of you who slid it out, what all had
to
be removed. I should mention I have removed the front of the box holding
in
the tank and the angled ramp is what I’m riding on, not the flat section
in
the front of the box, i.e., the tank has slid down several inches
already.
Thanks,
– pTaken by deepplaya http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/6130015395
Sent from my iPhone
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I thank my lucky stars our tank did not leak this summer. Thanks (tanks?) for the great photo. The more I study the replacement issue, the more I’m resigned to lose a few gallons.
Are you getting a new tank fabbed. Or thinking about a repair of the old. Can the old tank be made to cradle bladders? Cut yours off short and put a shorter new tank back in? Then maybe add small bladder to add capacity.Just thinking out loud, sorry I don’t have the answer, the whole fuel tank issue makes me thirsty, now where is that rum. BTW saw a pic with Pat and about 7 empty glasses, allegedly they once held 7 flavors of rum.
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One thing I considered was to have the bottom cut off and a new one welded on since the rest of the tank was fine. However, my welder wouldn’t work on a used tank even after I power washed it. Ergo, the epoxy and fiberglass repair.
I did have a pinhole leak on a welded seam repaired on an aluminum tank on a previous boat. That welder simply filled the tank with nitrogen first.
Quent -
I pulled the racor off… not hard.
I also cut the end of the engine tray a bit, that thing is massively thick
I’m sure I didn’t weaken it at all.I’m also getting new motor mounts for those playing a long at home the
original part number DF-2206-2 is now DF-2207-2 by Bushings Inc. Shouldbe
about $40-50 each.The tank did not have a big obvious hole in and we could have had a repair
made, but the estimate is $500 for a new tank so since everything was out
I’m going to go with the new tank.While the engine is out we’re going to clean it up a bit and try to spray
some engine paint on it.
Along with that we’re going to upgrade the alternator to a
Leece-Neville 8MR2401UA100Amp
Alternator ($250), and a Balmar MC-614 external regulator (with
temperature sensors). We’ll keep the 65amp as a spare and the 8MR2401UA has
a built-in regulator as a backup to the external. I think I’m also going to
put in a dedicated 12V starting battery and move the 2 6v batteries on bank
two to be in bank one adding an additional 220 Amp Hours to that bank.Anyway, we’ve been cranking here for three solid days and tomorrow we’re
going to take the bus in from Charleston (where local weather phenomenon
makes it always foggy) and see some sun and walk around and not work on the
boat.LOTS of pics on Flickr – http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/
Video of flying engine to come.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Fri, Sep 9, 2011 at 2:25 PM, quent wrote:
One thing I considered was to have the bottom cut off and a new one welded
on since the rest of the tank was fine. However, my welder wouldn’t work on
a used tank even after I power washed it. Ergo, the epoxy and fiberglass
repair.
I did have a pinhole leak on a welded seam repaired on an aluminum tank on
a previous boat. That welder simply filled the tank with nitrogen first.
Quent_______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
I recall having to remove the elbows on the top of the tank.
Pete
On 9/9/2011 10:13 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
So I got the tank loose and I’m trying to decide the right next step as it’s
not sliding out due to the wires in the mizzen step and the engine pan, as
well as the Racor laterally. Those of you who slid it out, what all had to
be removed. I should mention I have removed the front of the box holding in
the tank and the angled ramp is what I’m riding on, not the flat section in
the front of the box, i.e., the tank has slid down several inches already.Thanks,
– pTaken by deepplaya http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/6130015395
Sent from my iPhone
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Yes, I wasn’t specific enough. I had to remove the elbow from the
draw, return lines, vent and had to cut off the nylon elbow for the
fill. The fuel draw is two pieces, and you can’t pull the ~2′ draw
tube until the tank is out, but you do need to remove the elbow.Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 9, 2011, at 7:20 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I recall having to remove the elbows on the top of the tank.
Pete
On 9/9/2011 10:13 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
So I got the tank loose and I’m trying to decide the right next step as it’s
not sliding out due to the wires in the mizzen step and the engine pan, as
well as the Racor laterally. Those of you who slid it out, what all had to
be removed. I should mention I have removed the front of the box holding in
the tank and the angled ramp is what I’m riding on, not the flat section in
the front of the box, i.e., the tank has slid down several inches already.Thanks,
– pTaken by deepplaya http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/6130015395
Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
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Nope, putting back the engine, just going to knock of the corrosion on the
bottom and spray on some engine paint.-=p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Sep 10, 2011 at 2:46 PM, kalinowski wrote:
Are you going to do a rebuild? Or plug in another power plant?
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama (#135)
Ko Olina, O’ahu_______________________________________________
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Yup, that’s what I said… then when I pulled the oil pan and
plastigaged the bearings… it was clear that it was time for a new
engine…Pete
On 9/10/2011 7:56 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Nope, putting back the engine, just going to knock of the corrosion on the
bottom and spray on some engine paint.-=p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Sep 10, 2011 at 2:46 PM, kalinowskiwrote:
Are you going to do a rebuild? Or plug in another power plant?
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama (#135)
Ko Olina, O’ahu_______________________________________________
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That is a good suggestion… I’m curious about those hoses with the bends in
them. I can see a PN for them in my manual, but of course they can’t be
found online. Are they a generic thing I should be able to find or replace
with an off the shelf hose?I have a new exhaust elbow and the extension pipe to which it mounts (came
with the boat) and the old one is cracked. I’m going to have the yard get
that pipe off for me as I’m afraid I’ll break something. They need to heat
it up I’m sure.Anyway, I just spent the morning cleaning up the engine as much as I could
(felt a bit like polishing a turd) and then put a can of engine paint on.
I’ll do another can this afternoon, after the Seahawks game. I’m not sure
how much I’m actually protecting anything, but the engine looks a lot
better.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sun, Sep 11, 2011 at 5:09 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:IMHO
While you have the beast out…. check the by-pass hose on the bottom the
thermostat housing. If it looks”original” I’d replace it now. It’s a b****h
to get at while the engine is in place.
alan— On Sat, 9/10/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Really advise pulling the pan and doing some measurements. Paint can’t fix the stuff you might find. Plastigage the main and rod bearings and check the oil pump tolerances. A new oil pan gasket can be hand cut from sheet cork gasket stock instead of paying $75 for one
Pete
On Sep 11, 2011, at 2:24 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
Quote:That is a good suggestion… I’m curious about those hoses with the bends in
them. I can see a PN for them in my manual, but of course they can’t be
found online. Are they a generic thing I should be able to find or replace
with an off the shelf hose?I have a new exhaust elbow and the extension pipe to which it mounts (came
with the boat) and the old one is cracked. I’m going to have the yard get
that pipe off for me as I’m afraid I’ll break something. They need to heat
it up I’m sure.Anyway, I just spent the morning cleaning up the engine as much as I could
(felt a bit like polishing a turd) and then put a can of engine paint on.
I’ll do another can this afternoon, after the Seahawks game. I’m not sure
how much I’m actually protecting anything, but the engine looks a lot
better.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sun, Sep 11, 2011 at 5:09 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:IMHO
While you have the beast out…. check the by-pass hose on the bottom the
thermostat housing. If it looks”original” I’d replace it now. It’s a b****h
to get at while the engine is in place.
alan— On Sat, 9/10/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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I took my hoses to the local autoparts store and purchased ones that had the correct bend and Cut them down to fit.
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 11, 2011, at 1:24 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
Quote:That is a good suggestion… I’m curious about those hoses with the bends in
them. I can see a PN for them in my manual, but of course they can’t be
found online. Are they a generic thing I should be able to find or replace
with an off the shelf hose?I have a new exhaust elbow and the extension pipe to which it mounts (came
with the boat) and the old one is cracked. I’m going to have the yard get
that pipe off for me as I’m afraid I’ll break something. They need to heat
it up I’m sure.Anyway, I just spent the morning cleaning up the engine as much as I could
(felt a bit like polishing a turd) and then put a can of engine paint on.
I’ll do another can this afternoon, after the Seahawks game. I’m not sure
how much I’m actually protecting anything, but the engine looks a lot
better.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sun, Sep 11, 2011 at 5:09 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:IMHO
While you have the beast out…. check the by-pass hose on the bottom the
thermostat housing. If it looks”original” I’d replace it now. It’s a b****h
to get at while the engine is in place.
alan— On Sat, 9/10/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Check all the metal tubing in the cooling system while the beast is out. I had some pinholes and had to do a replacement in situ (I think I can join the circus now).
These tubes are not available now and you’ll have to have them fabricated. I have a great source in Wisconsin that can handle the diameter needed at very reasonable prices (no one on the island had gear to make one in the right diameter). I sent them the old one as a reference and they did a quick turn around. Let me know if you need source info.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama (#135)
Ko Olina, O’ahu
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