Forums › General Discussion › Re: Cap rail re-finishing
- This topic has 2 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 17 years, 7 months ago by
Paul Lefebvre.
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March 4, 2009 at 8:31 pm #67392
RichCarterParticipantp { margin: 0; }Linus
I found the link to the video you mentioned below. I found it very interesting, so much so that I’m planning to give it a try.http://www.masepoxies.com//Videos/Clear_Coating_Wood.html
I found a local epoxy dealer who sells a suitable product and has used the system himself. I plan to pick up a 1/2 gal next week ($42).
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/dataesp155.pdfThey recommend Ultimate Brightwork as the final UV coat, but the product is no longer in production. They also recommend an automotive clearcoat. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Regards
Rich
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March 4, 2009 at 9:10 pm #71988
unabated
ParticipantInteresting video. Ultimate Brightwork has not been sold in a couple of years. It’s the sister product to UltimateSole. I believe it was pulled off the market cause it didn’t work as advertised. UltimateSole works great. I suppose any varnish work work…interlux etc…..
alan— On Wed, 3/4/09, <> wrote:
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March 5, 2009 at 4:56 pm #72006
Paul Lefebvre
ParticipantRich:
While I have also heard of many people using epoxy, there was one comment in
the video that is critical. Where he mentioned to make sure that everything
is covered with epoxy or water will get underneath and cause it to lift. For
items like hatch boards, this would be possible and this system would
probably work well. But unless you removed your cap rails and T-track and
coated the undersides, I am having trouble seeing how we could get a
complete seal. Once the epoxy starts to lift, getting it all off and
starting over is a real pain.Here are some typical comments I have read from users that have tried this
system (from SSCA board):“I’ve tried both. Poly and Captains work equally well over epoxy as far as I
could tell. The problem with epoxy is that it will peal away from edges if
any water can get in there, so it works best when the part can be
encapsulated with epoxy to seal it. Also any chip or ding in the surface
will quickly cause the epoxy to lift. Removing epoxy is also very difficult.
I eventually removed all of it and just went back to Captains. There is no
holy grail of bright-work finish, and over the years I have tried most of
them. The latest fad seems to be Honey Teak or the new Cetol, neither look
as good as varnish but seem to last longer. Whatever you use you will have
to keep at it. “Paul
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