Forums › General Discussion › Re: Cap rail re-finishing

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    • #67392
      RichCarter
      Participant

      p { margin: 0; }Linus
      I found the link to the video you mentioned below. I found it very interesting, so much so that I’m planning to give it a try.

      http://www.masepoxies.com//Videos/Clear_Coating_Wood.html

      I found a local epoxy dealer who sells a suitable product and has used the system himself. I plan to pick up a 1/2 gal next week ($42).
      http://www.epoxyproducts.com/dataesp155.pdf

      They recommend Ultimate Brightwork as the final UV coat, but the product is no longer in production. They also recommend an automotive clearcoat. Does anyone have any suggestions?

      Regards
      Rich


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    • #71988
      unabated
      Participant

      Interesting video. Ultimate Brightwork has not been sold in a couple of years. It’s the sister product to UltimateSole. I believe it was pulled off the market cause it didn’t work as advertised. UltimateSole works great. I suppose any varnish work work…interlux etc…..
      alan

      — On Wed, 3/4/09, <> wrote:

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    • #72006
      Paul Lefebvre
      Participant

      Rich:

      While I have also heard of many people using epoxy, there was one comment in
      the video that is critical. Where he mentioned to make sure that everything
      is covered with epoxy or water will get underneath and cause it to lift. For
      items like hatch boards, this would be possible and this system would
      probably work well. But unless you removed your cap rails and T-track and
      coated the undersides, I am having trouble seeing how we could get a
      complete seal. Once the epoxy starts to lift, getting it all off and
      starting over is a real pain.

      Here are some typical comments I have read from users that have tried this
      system (from SSCA board):

      “I’ve tried both. Poly and Captains work equally well over epoxy as far as I
      could tell. The problem with epoxy is that it will peal away from edges if
      any water can get in there, so it works best when the part can be
      encapsulated with epoxy to seal it. Also any chip or ding in the surface
      will quickly cause the epoxy to lift. Removing epoxy is also very difficult.
      I eventually removed all of it and just went back to Captains. There is no
      holy grail of bright-work finish, and over the years I have tried most of
      them. The latest fad seems to be Honey Teak or the new Cetol, neither look
      as good as varnish but seem to last longer. Whatever you use you will have
      to keep at it. “

      Paul


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