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I’m doing my standing rigging right now. It’s not done, so my final price is up in the air.
I had several earlier quotes from good riggers and some quotes for rigging alone (without labor). I was mostly getting quotes from the 8k to 12K range (on complete work, including labor and some timely upgrades (new wire, LED anchor/steaming lights, etc.)). From these guys, most were quoting the rigging alone (no labor or upgrades) at about $6500 – $7500.
The rigger I currently have working on my boat has quoted me $2000 for rigging and $2000 for labor. A HUGE savings, if it holds true. To be honest, I can’t imagine those being the final numbers, but I’ll keep you posted.
Paul
On Monday, February 17, 2014 2:32 PM, JodyandStephen wrote:
Hi everyone,
Has anyone had a re-rig of their ketch? We are essentially looking for some price indicators.
Thanks in anticipation,
Stephen & Jody
Blue Pelican
O.N. 859321_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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jody & stephen
Where are you? If in the N. Florida region i recommend Sparman (
http://www.sparmanusa.com/HomePage.html). He’s a Brit based out of
Gainesville, Fl. Does quality work and does it timely.
He re-rigged my mizzen last year. I think the price was around $700. I
had the main re-rigged in 2007 for around $7K by a quality boat yard in
MD. Sparman did the rigging with the mast in place. The yard required the
main mast to be unstepped.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 6:31 PM, Paul Audi wrote:
I’m doing my standing rigging right now. It’s not done, so my final price
is up in the air.I had several earlier quotes from good riggers and some quotes for rigging
alone (without labor). I was mostly getting quotes from the 8k to 12K range
(on complete work, including labor and some timely upgrades (new wire, LED
anchor/steaming lights, etc.)). From these guys, most were quoting the
rigging alone (no labor or upgrades) at about $6500 – $7500.The rigger I currently have working on my boat has quoted me $2000 for
rigging and $2000 for labor. A HUGE savings, if it holds true. To be
honest, I can’t imagine those being the final numbers, but I’ll keep you
posted.Paul
On Monday, February 17, 2014 2:32 PM, JodyandStephen <
> wrote:Hi everyone,
Has anyone had a re-rig of their ketch? We are essentially looking for
some price indicators.Thanks in anticipation,
Stephen & Jody
Blue Pelican
O.N. 859321_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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If you want to use Hayn terminals, I can get good prices on them. I can’t
remember if I can swage the largest wire – I’ll have to measure it, but if
you want mechanical terminals, I can certainly get you decent pricing. If
you do it yourself, which isn’t rocket science, and you use mechanical
terminals, you should be able to do the whole job for around 2K or so.
I’ll have to check this year’s prices, but that’s what it was a few years
ago.Bob
On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 6:43 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
jody & stephen
Where are you? If in the N. Florida region i recommend Sparman (
http://www.sparmanusa.com/HomePage.html). He’s a Brit based out of
Gainesville, Fl. Does quality work and does it timely.
He re-rigged my mizzen last year. I think the price was around $700. I
had the main re-rigged in 2007 for around $7K by a quality boat yard in
MD. Sparman did the rigging with the mast in place. The yard required the
main mast to be unstepped.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 6:31 PM, Paul Audi wrote:
I’m doing my standing rigging right now. It’s not done, so my final price
is up in the air.I had several earlier quotes from good riggers and some quotes for
rigging
alone (without labor). I was mostly getting quotes from the 8k to 12K
range
(on complete work, including labor and some timely upgrades (new wire,
LED
anchor/steaming lights, etc.)). From these guys, most were quoting the
rigging alone (no labor or upgrades) at about $6500 – $7500.The rigger I currently have working on my boat has quoted me $2000 for
rigging and $2000 for labor. A HUGE savings, if it holds true. To be
honest, I can’t imagine those being the final numbers, but I’ll keep you
posted.Paul
On Monday, February 17, 2014 2:32 PM, JodyandStephen <
> wrote:Hi everyone,
Has anyone had a re-rig of their ketch? We are essentially looking for
some price indicators.Thanks in anticipation,
Stephen & Jody
Blue Pelican
O.N. 859321_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I re-rigged several years ago. I have a sloop, which is the same as the tall ketch without the mizzen. What I paid probably has no bearing on what costs are today. I paid about $13K, but this included new roller-furling and lacked mizzen rigging. I replaced everything except the mast and boom. Here are some things to consider.
Swaged rigging is cheaper but may not be as reliable as mechanical rigging like Norseman or Sta-Lock. The lower fittings usually fail sooner than upper fittings, particularly if you winter in an area that freezes. For this reason, some folks use swaged fittings for the upper terminal and mechanical for the lower.
http://www.jordanyachts.com/archives/1668
Some folks get longer fittings and re-use the wire. The longer fittings let you cut the old terminals off. Since the uppers are usually in good shape, you can leave them alone if they pass inspection. If you reuse your wire, mechanical terminals can be reused if you regret the decision 5 years later.
http://www.s3i.co.uk/sta-lok-long-eye.php
You might consider going up one size if you’re replacing the wire. I went up one size.
Now is the time to consider an insulated backstay or triatic for a SSB antenna. You’d need a pair of these.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|344|2028694|2029017&id=338881You might want to pull and inspect your chain-plates. I did this last year. It took about 16 hours to pull, clean, inspect, and replace mine. It was a PIA to take apart the interior cabinets but it wasn’t difficult. The worst part was removing bronze screws that had stripped heads. I ended up drilling the heads off half of mine. I used a flap-sander to clean the chain-plates. I found some pitting but no cracks.
BTW: When I put my boat in storage last fall, I noticed that my gooseneck is cracked. I suggest that owners inspect theirs. I plan to have mine welded.
Regards
Rich
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Stephen & Jody,
I re-rigged Silverheels myself back in 2007. It was not
difficult, even for me. I upsized all the wire sizes,
changed the main backstay from a split to a double and
added HF radio insulators. At the time the best deal I
found in the US for truly top quality (shop-tested)
rigging materials was Rigging Only
(http://www.riggingonly.com). The people there were awesome,
taking lots of time to coach me through any
shortcomings in my knowledge or abilities. The owner
even suggested that rather than spend the extra money
for all Sta-Lok fittings as I had intended, that I
would get equally sound, long-lasting stays & shrouds
by letting them put a swage fitting on the upper end of
the wires. He said in their experience an upper swage
will last as long as the wire itself, that it’s always
the lower swages that crack and fail.I could dig out all the pricing info, but it’s 7 years
old. Best to just ask them for current pricing. The
shipping (at that time) was not a big deal.Good luck,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Ditto on rigging only.
Sent from my iPhone
Quote:On Feb 18, 2014, at 6:09 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Stephen & Jody,
I re-rigged Silverheels myself back in 2007. It was not
difficult, even for me. I upsized all the wire sizes,
changed the main backstay from a split to a double and
added HF radio insulators. At the time the best deal I
found in the US for truly top quality (shop-tested)
rigging materials was Rigging Only
(http://www.riggingonly.com). The people there were awesome,
taking lots of time to coach me through any
shortcomings in my knowledge or abilities. The owner
even suggested that rather than spend the extra money
for all Sta-Lok fittings as I had intended, that I
would get equally sound, long-lasting stays & shrouds
by letting them put a swage fitting on the upper end of
the wires. He said in their experience an upper swage
will last as long as the wire itself, that it’s always
the lower swages that crack and fail.I could dig out all the pricing info, but it’s 7 years
old. Best to just ask them for current pricing. The
shipping (at that time) was not a big deal.Good luck,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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