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I used marine-tex. It worked well, but it took hours to chip the corrosion out of the cooling passage. You need to get it pretty clean for the marine-tex to stick. Pay attention to the area around the dip-stick. Mine rusted through here and allowed water to leak down the dipstick hole. I was able to patch it. I strongly suggest cleaning and coating before you get water into the case. Once water gets down there you’ll have to rebuild the whole thing. Remove the V-drive and put it on a bench to get at it with a chipper. Clean it out, being careful to remove all chips so they don’t find their way into your engine cooling jacket. Coat what you can with marine tex. While you have it out, replace the drive shaft seals. If you do this, you’ll probably get another 20 years from the v-drive. Don’t forget to clean the crud off the top-cover. You may have to replace it.
Replace the pipe plugs in the cooling jacket. They rust through first. You’ll likely need a pipe tap to clean the threads before replacing the plug. I suggest a bronze plug instead of iron. Bronze plugs are easy to find. They are used for pencil zincs.
Clean your V-drive cooling jacket every couple of years otherwise you end up with too much buildup.
Rich
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I didn’t mean to imply that a pencil zinc should be used, just the bronze plug end. I think we agree that a pencil zinc in the v-drive is a bad idea. Some folks have installed them but I didn’t. If Walter thought it needed they would have put one in there. Given that the thing rusts out from the inside so quickly, I don’t think a zinc would do anything anyway. As you say, pieces of it could cause problems downstream.The outside of the V-drive rusts out almost as fast as the inside. I touch-up the paint each season. I keep a can of blue rustoleum of a close color match just for this purpose.
Regards
Rich
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