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It’s time to rebed the main shrouds as they are noticeably leaking. The cover plates can’t be lifted high enough to get in and remove all of the old caulking effectively. The only logical option is to unhook the shrouds so I can do a thorough job. I’ve never done this before and am looking for guidance as unfastening the shrouds sounds spooky to me. Any pointers?
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu -
Hi Dan-
If you have a relatively calm spot, you should be ok as long as you don’t remove too many shrouds at once. Leave the uppers in place when you do the lowers, and vice versa. The fore and back stays should be backed up by halyards when you undo them, obviously one at a time.
More important, I suggest that you actually remove and inspect the chainplates, especially if you remove the cabinetry boxes around them and see some staining or rust. Stainless steel does not last forever in salty, tropical conditions.
I wrote a few articles on this stuff a few years ago. If you go to Ocean Navigator magazine website and search Kinderman they should be there.
Regards,
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132 -
I have some blog posts on the removing, refinishing and rebedding the
stantions. We had our rig down while we did it, but as Quent says you can
totally take out one or two at a time and do it that way.http://deepplaya.com/category/systems-rigging/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/tags/systemsrigging/-patrick
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
@DeepPlaya |
W7PEAOn Sun, Sep 30, 2012 at 4:27 PM, quent wrote:
Hi Dan-
If you have a relatively calm spot, you should be ok as long as you don’t
remove too many shrouds at once. Leave the uppers in place when you do the
lowers, and vice versa. The fore and back stays should be backed up by
halyards when you undo them, obviously one at a time.
More important, I suggest that you actually remove and inspect the
chainplates, especially if you remove the cabinetry boxes around them and
see some staining or rust. Stainless steel does not last forever in salty,
tropical conditions.
I wrote a few articles on this stuff a few years ago. If you go to Ocean
Navigator magazine website and search Kinderman they should be there.
Regards,
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132_______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Mark the threads with finger nail polish so you can retension them to the same spot. Slacken the opposite stay at the same time.
If you decide to remove the chain plates you should have new ones ready to install. The effort to remove them is significant but not difficult. For less than $400 you can replace the mains.
Bill was the one I gave you a valid template for yours?
Chuck -
I just replaced all the forward chain plates on Whiffler. I was a relative simple task. The tough part was getting access to the plates from inside the cabin. To do this involves removal of the woodwork as necessary to get access to the bolts. It takes care and patience, but not to difficult.
All chain plates are identical and I had a new set machines from 316 stainless for about $325. Use all new bolts and nuts to re-assemble. The forward chain plates have about a 10-12 degree twist at the top to match up to the holes in the deck. The direction of the twist is opposite on each side. I did the twisting manually, but it can also be done by the machine shop.I did the removal and re-assembly sequentially so I could use the main halyards to support the mast.
Overall, not to bad a job.
Steve
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
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Dan
Its pretty simple. I pull my mast each winter and will be pulling it again today. I remove the cotter pings or rings in the turnbuckles. Then put a wrench in the shroud to keep it from turning and a large screwdriver on the turnbuckle. As I recall, counter-clockwise loosens the shroud. The mast will sit fine with either the uppers or lowers disconnected, but not both. You will of course have to retune your rigging.I use RV roof sealant for the shrouds. I get about 5 years before it starts to leak. This stuff stays flexible and therefore doesn’t crack when the rigging moves. I put a bead under the shroud plates and build up a layer on the top against the chain-plate, smoothing it out for appearance.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/proflex-rv-flexible-sealant/3245
Regards
Rich
Original Message
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Dan (FYI);
Whiffler is a 1980 424 and I had a friend in Texas that had a 1980 Pearson 53. When he sold his boat, part of the deal was that that chain plates were checked for cracks (many of which can be on the back side where they could not be seen). It turned out that three of the main chain plates had cracks and needed replacement. For this reason, I decided not to take the chance and have the chain plates on Whiffler replaced. Any rust on the chain plates could be a sign. I suggest that periodically owners 424’s remove the covers and check for rust and cracks. Leaking at the deck covers can ultimately lead to this problem.
S
Original Message
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That’s probably good advice. Since I need to renew the caulk on my chainplates this winter, I plan to remove them for inspection. I’ll polish them with a scotch-brite pad on a wheel. This should expose any cracks.
Here’s a cheap kit that should work on a small job like polishing the chainplates.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-surface-conditioning-kit-94196.htmlIf you keep your chainplates dry, I think there should be no reason for them to suffer from crevice-corrosion. This is difficult however. By the time you discover a leak, the chainplates have been wet for some time. I read somewhere that polishing the surface helps protect against crevice-corrosion. This is another reason to polish them if you pull them for inspection.
Regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47
Original Message
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We used butyl around the chain plate then put sikaflex on top of that
to bed the cover plate. Has worked like a charm!-p
Sent from my Land Yacht
On Oct 1, 2012, at 9:27 AM, “”
wrote:Quote:Dan
Its pretty simple. I pull my mast each winter and will be pulling it again today. I remove the cotter pings or rings in the turnbuckles. Then put a wrench in the shroud to keep it from turning and a large screwdriver on the turnbuckle. As I recall, counter-clockwise loosens the shroud. The mast will sit fine with either the uppers or lowers disconnected, but not both. You will of course have to retune your rigging.I use RV roof sealant for the shrouds. I get about 5 years before it starts to leak. This stuff stays flexible and therefore doesn’t crack when the rigging moves. I put a bead under the shroud plates and build up a layer on the top against the chain-plate, smoothing it out for appearance.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/proflex-rv-flexible-sealant/3245
Regards
Rich
Original Message
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
I would also recommend that you place a blue marker die on the surfaces which will make any micro cracks visible. Rigging folks do this routinely.
Steve
Original Message
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AMEN, AMEN, AMEN! My strb main upper literally snapped in two following
removal; there was no outward & visible sign. DON’T put off the job. CHARISMA
is hull #118, 1980.~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 10/1/2012 11:04:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
writes:I would also recommend that you place a blue marker die on the surfaces
which will make any micro cracks visible. Rigging folks do this routinely.Steve
Original Message
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Also should mention that there was some stress corrosion cracking on the tangs connecting the lowers to the mast. Good idea to check that too.
Looks like spider web cracks on the surface, but goes all the way through the metal. If you can’t get the blue stuff, another way is to polish stainless really well with Mother’s Mag Wheel Polish and look at light reflecting off the surface.
Quent
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