Replacing Coaming Teak

[kalinowski]

My boat (#135) is blessed (Cursed?) with teak planking on the cockpit coaming. It’s been refinished and sanded too many times to try it again. Has anyone replaced or even permanently removed the teak? I’ve considered “nu-teak” synthetic planking if a total removal is not possible or too big of a project.

Any thoughts out there?

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne (#135)
Honolulu

[Hull152_Patrick]

I’ve not done this, my hull does not have teak in that area. I have been watching a guy on my dock replace the teak toe rails on his boat and it seems pretty straightforward. He was using wedges and a Fein Multimaster to pry and loosen the old teak from the rail. I think if you followed a similar strategy and cut it back as you went (so you the multimaster can still reach in) you could make it work. In terms of refinishing it seems like you’ll just be doing a lot of sanding and possibly using some harsh chemical strippers if there’s anything like 5200 under that teak.

Anyone have experience doing gel coat work? Is that more difficult than just the glass and epoxy work?

Seems very doable though.

-p

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[john stevenson]

Patrick,
In answer to your question on gelcoat work.  I've not done much and what I did I was able to hide.  Generally it involves a lot more finishing work than normal glass work, as the reason you're using gelcoat is because it will be visible.  The biggest issue is matching the color of old, faded gelcoat next to the area you are repairing.  My impression is the gelcoat guys in the boatyards are among the best paid, probably for a reason.

John

On Wed, Jul 1, 2009 at 1:21 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

I've not done this, my hull does not have teak in that area. I have been watching a guy on my dock replace the teak toe rails on his boat and it seems pretty straightforward. He was using wedges and a Fein Multimaster to pry and loosen the old teak from the rail. I think if you followed a similar strategy and cut it back as you went (so you the multimaster can still reach in) you could make it work. In terms of refinishing it seems like you'll just be doing a lot of sanding and possibly using some harsh chemical strippers if there's anything like 5200 under that teak.
 
Anyone have experience doing gel coat work? Is that more difficult than just the glass and epoxy work?
 
Seems very doable though.
 
-p

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

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[RichCarter]

Normal 0
Unless the teak is in very bad condition, it can likely be reused. After years of sanding, the fasteners will begin to show through the wood plugs. These can normally be drilled deeper and refastened.

The teak coaming is held in place with screws which are covered with wood plugs. It would be rather tedious but straightforward to remove all the hardware and lift the teak covering. The teak is bedded with either polysulfied or silicon caulk. The fasteners are most likely leaking and there is probably water penetration into the plywood core. If you remove the teak, I would suggest drying the core and injecting epoxy. West system has instructions for repairing deck delamination and here’s some more information.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/deckRot/

In my opinion, the boat looks rather plain without the teak covering. There are a number of alternative materials that could be used in place of natural teak including Treadmaster, plastic decking (e.g. Trex), and teak substitutes. I’m in the process of putting down a teak deck in my cockpit. I considered many of these alternatives but went with the real thing. West system publishes instructions for laying down a teak deck with no fasteners. I’m doing something similar to my cockpit sole. The process is pretty straightforward. I’m buying my epoxy from these guys. Just tell him that you’re using it to glue down teak decking and he’ll tell you what you need. I use 2oz/sq-ft. You can of course use West System products, but its pretty expensive.

http://www.epoxyproducts.com/

Teak can be purchased for about $14/bd-ft at a specialty lumber yard. You can rip it into 2â€

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