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I just got my hands on a rigging wire tension gauge and want to use it to fine-tune my standing rigging. Does
anyone know the correct tensions for the various stays and shrouds on a P424 ketch?Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Tor,
I follow the general rule below:- Upper shrouds, head stay, back stay – 15% of working strength
- Lower shrouds – 10% of working strength
Then finish tuning under sail
John
On Sun, Feb 1, 2009 at 3:52 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I just got my hands on a rigging wire tension gauge and want to use it to fine-tune my standing rigging. Does
anyone know the correct tensions for the various stays and shrouds on a P424 ketch?Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Regards,
John Stevenson
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Thanks, John. That sounds about right.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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For anyone interested in this subject, here is a summary of what I’ve learned. Most comes from a rigging book by Brion Toss.
Tuning Standing Rigging
Longer wires will stretch more, so they need to be set up tighter than shorter wires.Flattening the mainsail will help the boat sail more upright in strong winds. Bending the mast a little helps flatten the mainsail.
1) Forestay = 15%, then backstay(s) = 20%. Induce a little bend in the mast (less than one mast depth) with the backstay, then take up on the lowers “to control and define the bend.” Sight mast, then proceed with the uppers.
2) Lower shrouds = 10-12% of working strength
Sight mast.
3) Intermediaries = 12-15% of working strength
Sight mast.
3) Upper shrouds, head stay, back stay = 15-20% of working strength
Sight mast. 4) Staysail stay = 12% of working strength (I made this up.)Sight mast.
Then go sailing. First just sail around in a stiff breeze to get out the initial stretch in the wire. Then check that the leeward shrouds aren’t floppy while sailing to windward. If they are, tighten them a little, “until you feel a slight increase of resistance in the (well-lubricated) turnbuckle.” Then tack and repeat on the other side. Then sight up the mast. If the head falls off to leeward, the uppers may be too loose, or the lowers too tight. Try the lowers first.
If the headstay sags too much, tighten up the backstay.
Bottom Line: Keep the stick laterally straight, a little bend aft, and no slack in the wires.
Finally, cotter-pin all the turnbuckle studs.
Reef early,
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Here’s the two pages with the basics on rig tuning from Brion Toss’ book. I think its a must have…
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
I don’t have a tensioner. Like most folks, I adjust rigging tension by experience. I flex the uppers and lowers until they ‘feel’ right and then take the boat for a sail. I wuuld guess that the tension for the uppers is somewhere around 1000 lbs and the lowers are about half that.
The forestay is not really adjustable. I tension the backstay. The breaking strength of 3/8 steel wire is about 14000 lbs. The end fittings are rated at arount 6000 lbs. Depending on wind conditions, I run the backstay tension between about 500 lbs (downwind) and 3500lbs (upwind).
http://www.americanriggingsupply.com/index_files/Navtec_Wire_Dyform_Rod%20Specs.pdf
Rich
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I’ve always done it by feel and sighting up the mast, too, Rich, and that has served me well enough on many boats for many years over many nautical miles. Still, this old dog’s always up for learning a new trick. I want to see if I can tweak this boat’s rigging to a finer point while I’ve got this borrowed tension gauge.
As soon as the rain stops, that is.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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