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I am replacing the reefing line cheek blocks on the main boom.
The replacements are from garhauer and have a four hole pattern.
The orignal schafer blocks are 2 hole affixed with ss machine screws.
Aside from serviceability any reason to use threaded fastener over rivets?Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
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Given they’re Garhauer, I’d go with stainless rivets. My two cents. Either
is fine, the threaded fasteners are easier to put in without specialized
equipment.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 6, 2012 6:16 PM, “Oldrodie” wrote:I am replacing the reefing line cheek blocks on the main boom.
The replacements are from garhauer and have a four hole pattern.
The orignal schafer blocks are 2 hole affixed with ss machine screws.
Aside from serviceability any reason to use threaded fastener over rivets?Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
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maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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I was thinking rivets. I have tools for either – so equipment is not the issue.
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
On Feb 6, 2012, at 6:20 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Given they’re Garhauer, I’d go with stainless rivets. My two cents. Either
is fine, the threaded fasteners are easier to put in without specialized
equipment.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 6, 2012 6:16 PM, “Oldrodie” wrote:I am replacing the reefing line cheek blocks on the main boom.
The replacements are from garhauer and have a four hole pattern.
The orignal schafer blocks are 2 hole affixed with ss machine screws.
Aside from serviceability any reason to use threaded fastener over rivets?Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Stainless rivets are the thing, then.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 6, 2012 6:32 PM, “Oldrodie” wrote:I was thinking rivets. I have tools for either – so equipment is not the
issue.Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
On Feb 6, 2012, at 6:20 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Given they’re Garhauer, I’d go with stainless rivets. My two cents.
Either
is fine, the threaded fasteners are easier to put in without specialized
equipment.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 6, 2012 6:16 PM, “Oldrodie” wrote:I am replacing the reefing line cheek blocks on the main boom.
The replacements are from garhauer and have a four hole pattern.
The orignal schafer blocks are 2 hole affixed with ss machine screws.
Aside from serviceability any reason to use threaded fastener overrivets?
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Eric,
Which size (p/n) of the Garhauer block are you using there?
Pete
On 2/6/2012 4:16 PM, Oldrodie wrote:
I am replacing the reefing line cheek blocks on the main boom.
The replacements are from garhauer and have a four hole pattern.
The orignal schafer blocks are 2 hole affixed with ss machine screws.
Aside from serviceability any reason to use threaded fastener over rivets?Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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25-22 SB. They are on a curved base that should mate well to the boom profile. These are significantly more substantial than what is currently installed. Would actually trust them in a blow.
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 6, 2012, at 7:32 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Eric,
Which size (p/n) of the Garhauer block are you using there?
Pete
On 2/6/2012 4:16 PM, Oldrodie wrote:
I am replacing the reefing line cheek blocks on the main boom.
The replacements are from garhauer and have a four hole pattern.
The orignal schafer blocks are 2 hole affixed with ss machine screws.
Aside from serviceability any reason to use threaded fastener over rivets?Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Eric, the stainless and aluminum will eventually bond together. The rivet we know will have to be drilled out, the screw will probably shear off and result in the same situation.
A professional would tap the boom and use a machine screw with a coating of Tef-Gel to secure the block. It might seem like overkill until you go to remove the hardware to repaint the spar.
Tef-Gel might work on a self tapping screw but the cutting action of the screw makes it unlikely.
Chuck
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Eric, the stainless and aluminum will eventually bond together. The rivet we know will have to be drilled out, the screw will probably shear off and result in the same situation.
A professional would tap the boom and use a machine screw with a coating of Tef-Gel to secure the block. It might seem like overkill until you go to remove the hardware to repaint the spar.
Tef-Gel might work on a self tapping screw but the cutting action of the screw makes it unlikely.
Chuck
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I used flat based Garhauer blocks. I cut some cheek block pads out of starboard with a band saw to conform to the angle of the boom. I used heavy sodering wire to get the pattern of the boom and then traced it on the edge of the starboard. I then used fine thread machine screws to attach and the holes were tapped out first. As attaching I applied anti-sieze to the hole to cut down on the corrosion
between the stainless and the alum.
Good luck
Ted Riley
Bel Esprit II
Hull# 175________________________________
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