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Silverheels is due for new headsail roller furling to replace an ancient
Harken. Anybody have raves or rages to share regarding specific
brands/models?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us <http://www.silverheels.us/>
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I’m actually pretty pleased with my ProFurl. As long as the lines are led
properly, it works like a dream.Bob
On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 8:02 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Silverheels is due for new headsail roller furling to replace an ancient
Harken. Anybody have raves or rages to share regarding specific
brands/models?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Thanks, Bob. I’ve heard other good reports of ProFurl, as well. It’s
definitely on my study list.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I replaced mine 2 year ago with the Harken Cruising Unit 2, very happy with it. I didn’t like the PorFurl due to how it had a wrap stop at the top, also didn’t like the old look to it. Both models are similar in the tubing and with the mounting styles. My old furling system I had to use a winch handle to furl the sail, now I can use my hands. Wow what a difference. I was able to install it myself with a little help from a friend to hoisted it up.
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Thanks for your input, Dos. What do you mean by “a wrap stop at the
top?”Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
I believe any of the major providers (Harken, ProFurl, Schaefer, Famet,
etc) are quality products that will serve well. I also have a Harken
furler (came with the boat – must be at least 20 years old) and it is still
working well. I just have to clean the bearings with fresh water and
occasionally a cleanser. As Dos Locos experienced, having to use a sheet
winch to furl the head sail is a sign of a problem. Either the furler is
not working properly (bearings shot, halyard wrap, etc.) or it is not being
operated properly. I’ve often had to stop friends crewing for me to not
put the furling line on the winch just because they cannot pull in the reef
line by hand. Usually easing the sheet a couple of feet reduces the
pressure and the sail can be furled by hand. In any case if the furling
line cannot be pulled in by hand, then stop and try to figure out why
before using the power of sheet winch to break something.
So my recommendation is go with any of the major brands and use price as a
determining factor. For someone with less boat project experience than
yourself, I would recommend using a qualified rigger to do the
installation. Installation problems appear to be the source of most issues.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 5:02 PM, Dos Locos wrote:
I replaced mine 2 year ago with the Harken Cruising Unit 2, very happy
with it. I didn’t like the PorFurl due to how it had a wrap stop at the
top, also didn’t like the old look to it. Both models are similar in the
tubing and with the mounting styles. My old furling system I had to use a
winch handle to furl the sail, now I can use my hands. Wow what a
difference. I was able to install it myself with a little help from a
friend to hoisted it up.
Dos Loco’s
Pearson 424 #71https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=5736C29B2A4E72A8!233&authkey=!AIvR0SRxE9KBaFs
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Dos Locos,
I just took a look at your pics. Any chance you are related to Bob
Bitchin? Meant as a compliment, hopefully no offense taken.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 5:27 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Thanks for your input, Dos. What do you mean by “a wrap stop at the
top?”Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Good advice, John. I have rinsed my old Harken bearings often enough,
but it’s still harder to pull in than it should be. It’s still working,
but it’s old. I don’t want to get 2,000 miles offshore and have it fail
there. This is more along the lines of preventative replacement. Figured
if I’m getting new sails, I might as well do it all and get it over
with. Then I’m ready to sail as far and for as long as I want.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I wish, but no relation 🙁 . The wrap stop I believe is for stopping the halyard from wrapping around the furl. I remember when I was looking for a roller furling system, the Profurl had some metal piece at the top and it just didn’t look well designed as the Harken and it was a little pricier then the Ports supply + boat show price I got. For real big items, I go to the shows and do well. I Just starting to add some of my project pic’s to my site and more to come. thanks
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I just bought a new furler. Read all the research and comments from sailors. Practical Sailor also did a test on the new generation furlers a year or so ago. Got down to Hood or Harken and I decided on the Harken. But it’s still in the box and I haven’t installed it yet so can’t give any first hand report on how well it works.
Also, I have to admit that a year later I can’t remember why I picked the Harken over the Hood but I’m sure it was for a very good reason.
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Hi Tor and John,
The thing I really like about the ProFurl is that the important parts are
made of titanium. Very light, very tough, and no corrosion. The thing I
don’t like is the same thing Dos Locos didn’t like – the anti-wrap device.
But once up, I’ve never had a problem with it, so it’s a aesthetic issue.As far as working by hand: I’ve found that the biggest reason they can’t
be worked by hand is that the furling line is led improperly. It took me
two years to figure that out – very often (all I’ve seen, anyway) the last
block before the furling drum is attached to the bottom of the pulpit
stanchion, so the winding force is actually at an acute angle to the
drum. By moving the block up so that it pulls perpendicularly to the drum
gives two advantages: the first; the drum wraps perfectly and allows more
line to fit without jamming allowing a larger sail or more wraps when
furled to prevent auto unwind when in storm conditions, and the second;
because the force is in the direction you want it to be it’s easier to furl.Before I moved the block up, even in modest winds (20kts or so) it was
difficult to furl and I had to start with the winch. After moving, just
slackening the sheet a bit will allow me to hand furl without a problem up
beyond 35 kts. So, before you spend a bunch of money on a new furler, if
you have your last block near the cap rail, move it up – give it a whack
and see what you think.Bob
On Fri, Nov 9, 2012 at 9:36 PM, skipmac wrote:
I just bought a new furler. Read all the research and comments from
sailors. Practical Sailor also did a test on the new generation furlers a
year or so ago. Got down to Hood or Harken and I decided on the Harken.
But it’s still in the box and I haven’t installed it yet so can’t give any
first hand report on how well it works.Also, I have to admit that a year later I can’t remember why I picked the
Harken over the Hood but I’m sure it was for a very good reason._______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I want to second what Bob is saying about ensuring a fair lead into the
drum. It should be 90 degrees and into the center. When I took the Brion
Toss weekend class we walked the docs and he pointed out problems on boats.
This was one of them….I used Spinlock stanchion leads on my boat and I”ve been happy with them
thus far.
Lead Blocks for the entry and exit of the run
https://www.spinlock.co.uk/en/organisers/wl-range/stanchion-furling-line-lead-2Lead Bullseyes for the middle run
https://www.spinlock.co.uk/en/organisers/wl-range/stanchion-furling-line-lead-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
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W7PEAOn Sat, Nov 10, 2012 at 6:13 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Tor and John,
The thing I really like about the ProFurl is that the important parts are
made of titanium. Very light, very tough, and no corrosion. The thing I
don’t like is the same thing Dos Locos didn’t like – the anti-wrap device.
But once up, I’ve never had a problem with it, so it’s a aesthetic issue.As far as working by hand: I’ve found that the biggest reason they can’t
be worked by hand is that the furling line is led improperly. It took me
two years to figure that out – very often (all I’ve seen, anyway) the last
block before the furling drum is attached to the bottom of the pulpit
stanchion, so the winding force is actually at an acute angle to the
drum. By moving the block up so that it pulls perpendicularly to the drum
gives two advantages: the first; the drum wraps perfectly and allows more
line to fit without jamming allowing a larger sail or more wraps when
furled to prevent auto unwind when in storm conditions, and the second;
because the force is in the direction you want it to be it’s easier to
furl.Before I moved the block up, even in modest winds (20kts or so) it was
difficult to furl and I had to start with the winch. After moving, just
slackening the sheet a bit will allow me to hand furl without a problem up
beyond 35 kts. So, before you spend a bunch of money on a new furler, if
you have your last block near the cap rail, move it up – give it a whack
and see what you think.Bob
On Fri, Nov 9, 2012 at 9:36 PM, skipmac wrote:
I just bought a new furler. Read all the research and comments from
sailors. Practical Sailor also did a test on the new generationfurlers a
year or so ago. Got down to Hood or Harken and I decided on the Harken.
But it’s still in the box and I haven’t installed it yet so can’t giveany
first hand report on how well it works.
Also, I have to admit that a year later I can’t remember why I picked the
Harken over the Hood but I’m sure it was for a very good reason._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
That sounds like good advice, Bob, and it may make my old Harken furler
easier to operate. I’m still concerned about its age, which is
uncertain. The PO may or may not have told me it was 15 years old when I
bought the boat at the end of 2006, which puts it over 20 now. If I only
sailed locally, I suppose I could keep using it until something breaks.
But I go offshore and hang out in places where there is no indiginous
word for “roller furler.” This replacement is more along the lines of
preventative maintenance. Am I crazy?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Just jumping in on this conversation, I have the Pro furl and one of
the good points is that it’s an open drum. If you have a snarl or
jam, it’s easier to clear it.Jack
XanaduOn Sat, Nov 10, 2012 at 8:38 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:That sounds like good advice, Bob, and it may make my old Harken furler
easier to operate. I’m still concerned about its age, which is
uncertain. The PO may or may not have told me it was 15 years old when I
bought the boat at the end of 2006, which puts it over 20 now. If I only
sailed locally, I suppose I could keep using it until something breaks.
But I go offshore and hang out in places where there is no indiginous
word for “roller furler.” This replacement is more along the lines of
preventative maintenance. Am I crazy?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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There’s that, too…
Bob
On Sun, Nov 11, 2012 at 7:13 PM, Jack P Clarke wrote:
Quote:Just jumping in on this conversation, I have the Pro furl and one of
the good points is that it’s an open drum. If you have a snarl or
jam, it’s easier to clear it.Jack
XanaduOn Sat, Nov 10, 2012 at 8:38 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:That sounds like good advice, Bob, and it may make my old Harken furler
easier to operate. I’m still concerned about its age, which is
uncertain. The PO may or may not have told me it was 15 years old when I
bought the boat at the end of 2006, which puts it over 20 now. If I only
sailed locally, I suppose I could keep using it until something breaks.
But I go offshore and hang out in places where there is no indiginous
word for “roller furler.” This replacement is more along the lines of
preventative maintenance. Am I crazy?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I came accross this recently but haven’t researched it.
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