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Hey guys
I’m asking for advise again. I have changed out all the hoses on the boat. The last was the drain to the galley sink which I believe was original, 1979. I waited so long because it seemed impossible without cutting out the sole under the sink. I got nervous about the old hose and finally cut a hatch out under the sink to make the job eaiser. The original groco seacocks seem to be in good shape and they are quit massive in their construction. I service them all when I haul out and have had no problems from them. When I took the old hose off the fitting, (that looks like a flared piece of pipe) that Pearson used for the original construction became loose. It looks like back then they used silicon caulk on the threads to seal the fitting. I hope to be able to swap it out with a hose barb while still in the water but just in case I break the seal to the through hull when I try to change it do you think I should put back the seacock or go to a new ball valve. I have already done the ball valve thing with the smaller holes in the hull but the seacocks look much more substantial. I already have a ball valve that I bought years ago but have not installed yet. I thought that I would put that one on the head thruhull because it is a bit harder to reach. I guess my question is 30 year old massive, maintainable seacock or new ball valve?
Thanks for your support!Linus
Sumocean -
One word: Marelon.
On 7/23/2011 7:59 AM, sumocean wrote:
Hey guys
I’m asking for advise again. I have changed out all the hoses on the boat. The last was the drain to the galley sink which I believe was original, 1979. I waited so long because it seemed impossible without cutting out the sole under the sink. I got nervous about the old hose and finally cut a hatch out under the sink to make the job eaiser. The original groco seacocks seem to be in good shape and they are quit massive in their construction. I service them all when I haul out and have had no problems from them. When I took the old hose off the fitting, (that looks like a flared piece of pipe) that Pearson used for the original construction became loose. It looks like back then they used silicon caulk on the threads to seal the fitting. I hope to be able to swap it out with a hose barb while still in the water but just in case I break the seal to the through hull when I try to change it do you think I should put back the seacock or go to a new ball valve. I have already done the ball valve thing with the smaller holes in the hull but the seacocks look much more substantial. I already have a ball valve that I bought years ago but have not installed yet. I thought that I would put that one on the head thruhull because it is a bit harder to reach. I guess my question is 30 year old massive, maintainable seacock or new ball valve?
Thanks for your support!Linus
Sumocean_______________________________________________
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If you are also replacing the thruhull fitting with Marelon be very careful not
to overtighten – they will fracture raidally at the thread base, sometime
undected (voice of experialce).Eric
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Linus, bronze seacock assembly mounted on a composite backing plate and through bolted. Bulletproof.
The original ones are bedded with silicone, most of the holes are oversize so there’s even less of the mushroom lip against the hull than would appear. When I was removing mine some of them spun with little force.
Here’s a decent image of what a proper install would look like.
http://www.boattest.com/images-gallery/News/seacock_drawing.jpg
The load is all on the backing plate and transferred to a large area of the hull. The mushroom does nothing to hold anything in place. You could loose the head of mushroom from damage and only need to close the seacock.
Lastly, the hull is really thin in some spots. About 7/16 where the cockpit scuppers exit the boat. The backing plate shouldn’t be overlooked.
Chuck
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