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How hard is it to get at the cabin sole? Are the various cabinets and
seating framing installed first or on top of the sole? Boat sole is warn
out and I’m wondering how hard it is to get it up to do the stringer
reinforcement or if I should just overlay a wood floor.
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Start of attached email. Subject: Re: sole replacement?
I bought 3 or 4 by 8 sheets by 3/8 inch teak and holly veneer and glued it on top of the original floor. There was a weak area that we had to reinforce.Came out great -I paid a couple dock friends to do the work since I was working full time at the time- that was 8 years ago -I just added several coats of high gloss varnish recently to keep it like new.
Sent from my iPhoneOn Nov 17, 2015, at 2:28 PM, Tom Heller via maillist wrote:
How hard is it to get at the cabin sole? Are the various cabinets and
seating framing installed first or on top of the sole? Boat sole is warn
out and I’m wondering how hard it is to get it up to do the stringer
reinforcement or if I should just overlay a wood floor.
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End of attached email
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Here’s what I did. It is easier than it looks. You need a supply for teak and holly and a table saw. You can do this in a couple of weekends.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/sole/
Make sure you get a sharp carbide table saw blade to cut teak. Here’s where I got my wood. They ship. Holly is very expensive but you don’t need much. There are less expensive white hardwoods that you could substitute.
http://goosebaylumber.net/wordpress/contact-usBriefly, I cut the wood stock into strips of the same width as the existing sole strips and glued them over the existing sole. If you cut 1/4″ strips, you can get three pieces out of a 1″ plank, two cuts. This leaves an uneven surface, but you can sand it smooth with little effort and the right tools. Now the sole has a laminate that is thick enough to repair should it get scratched. Getting the new boards to align to the bulkheads without a space is very difficult but adding a molding around the sole edge simple enough.
I only had to do the aft half of my sole. This is where it wears most. The finish I used is no longer available. Too bad since it wears like iron. I think its just gym floor varnish but I’m not sure.
http://www.lenmar-coatings.com/product-detail/pro/lenmar/court-time-gym-floor-finish
Rich
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Start of attached email. Subject: Re: sole replacement?
What vanish did you use. I was using ultimate sole but the tree huggers put the end to it. Was great stuff. Used fabulon after that but that’s off the market now too.
Also have teak and holly veneer over solid teak sole.
Alan
Sent from my iPhoneOn Nov 17, 2015, at 2:43 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
I bought 3 or 4 by 8 sheets by 3/8 inch teak and holly veneer and glued it on top of the original floor. There was a weak area that we had to reinforce.Came out great -I paid a couple dock friends to do the work since I was working full time at the time- that was 8 years ago -I just added several coats of high gloss varnish recently to keep it like new.
Sent from my iPhoneOn Nov 17, 2015, at 2:28 PM, Tom Heller via maillist wrote:
How hard is it to get at the cabin sole? Are the various cabinets and
seating framing installed first or on top of the sole? Boat sole is warn
out and I’m wondering how hard it is to get it up to do the stringer
reinforcement or if I should just overlay a wood floor.
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
End of attached email
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I acknowledge the ease of laying in a new floor. My question is this, what does it take to get the sole up to access the stringers so that they can be glassed in properly.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 17, 2015, at 3:47 PM, aphil138— via maillist wrote:
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Short reply, sawzall. Longer: I cut hatches throughout the sole for
access. They were framed out, with additional support where needed.The biggest bugaboo are the water tanks sitting on the sole.
Bob
On Tue, Nov 17, 2015 at 4:11 PM, Thomas Heller via maillist <
> wrote:I acknowledge the ease of laying in a new floor. My question is this, what
does it take to get the sole up to access the stringers so that they can be
glassed in properly.Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 17, 2015, at 3:47 PM, aphil138— via maillist <
> wrote:
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi Tommy,
Looking at a new cabin sole in my boat and have had a good bit of the interior apart (cabinets in the galley to do a fridge rebuild, the settees on both sides) and the teak and holly sole goes under all the rest of the interior cabinetwork. Now I do have a slightly different boat, the center cockpit 422 but the basic construction techniques seem to be pretty much the same so I’m assuming this is also the case in the 424.
If so, then to really do it right IE replace ALL the plywood flooring down to the stringers, you would have to gut the interior. Otherwise, for a not as good second choice get a Fein Tool or similar flush cut saw and trim the floors up next to all the furniture and leave a seam around the edges.Â
I’m just going to lay new flooring on top of the old and put a bit of molding around the edges.
Skip
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