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As one project leads inevitably to other, far larger projects… Since I’m doing a little bit of wiring… I’m thinking I should do “something” about the batteries in the starboard Lazarette. Has anybody reclaimed that space for other use? I’m thinking of somehow rotating the batteries sideways, and moving them forward and down. Maybe stacking them on top of each other? Anyone done something similar Pictures? Ideas? Am I being dumb?
Also, the other day I had to replace the glow plug switch because something whacked into it. In my boat in that same location the fuel kill cable makes a huge loop in the lazarette and is always in the way too. So I’m thinking of removing the cheesy plywood piece holding the key, and putting the key, preheat, starter and kill all into a panel there. Is there a safety or code reason not to move the kill under the seat lid?
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There are some photos in the Pearson424.org gallery of moving the batteries in front of the steering quadrant and aft of the fuel tank. https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/album08
Also, I’ve been making a page linking to all the individual P424 projects I can find which you might find useful:
http://www.deepplaya.com/page/Pearson-Upgrades.aspx-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
We removed the battery boxes leaving enough of the base to mount a dc genset in a box there. Also installed a saddle tank just outboard, and installed a shelf aft to the transom to support a box with four GC batteries.
It’s pretty crowded in the stb lazerette, but it leaves the aft lazarette empty for access and stowage.
Leaving Annapolis Saturday for points south. Currently stuck as this NW wind has blown away the water and left us stuck in the slip!
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132 -
Quent, will you sail inside or outside?
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Aaron,
Moving batteries “forward and down” from Pearson’s original location makes sense. Personally, I never cared for their vulnerable location out there, anyway. Alternatives to your plan could include putting some or all in the lower section of the “hanging” locker immediately to starboard of the main companionway ladder, and/or in the aftermost locker beneath the captain’s bunk, immediately to port of the main companionway ladder. On Silver Heels I did both, installing the engine start battery in the foot of the starboard locker, and a 5-battery house bank in the bunk locker to port. (Also put a dedicated windlass battery just aft of the forward water tank beneath the V-berth.)
I still have the original Pearson battery boxes in place in the starboard cockpit locker. I removed the false bottoms and presently use them as storage bins. I may cut them out of there eventually, though, to take better advantage of that space.
I got rid of Pearson’s original engine switches in the starboard cockpit locker when I re-powered. All engine controls are now contained in a new panel inset into Pearson’s original, covered engine gauge area on the forward vertical bulkhead of the cockpit well.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thatcher-
I expect to be inside to SC, then decide. Claire wants to see Savanna, but definitely outside down FL.
Tor-
Good advice keeping batteries low and out of the ends. We also have four GC’s stuffed in qtr berth aft space. Also keeps battery cables nice and short. We did find that water and battery acid damaged the plywood in the original battery boxes. Pearson really wasted space on the battery boxes.
Quent
Clairebuoyant -
Aaron
Putting the batteries in the starboard locker doesn’t make a lot of sense. At one point in time, I had large 6v batteries in there, like golf-cart batteries but much taller and heavier. It gave the boat a permanent list. I relocated the batteries to the bilge just forward of the sump. This puts them out of the way and where the weight will do some good. The drawback with this is that if you boat floods, your batteries will be under water. I have a separate starting battery that is on the shelf inside the hanging locker, so even if the bilge floods I still have power until that is underwater too. By then, I have bigger problems. I cut out the battery box and now have a huge locker for storage. Its full of stuff of course. Someone installed them under the steering quadrant. My autopilot is there, so I couldn’t do the same. This limits the height of the battery, but otherwise looks to be a good spot if yours will fit.
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/album08The pull cable is expensive to replace and IMHO is a dumb idea. I tore it out and replace it with a solenoid lever made for that kind of thing. When you turn the key on, the solenoid pushes the kill lever to “ON” and when you turn the key off it returns it to “OFF”; just like a car.
I replaced the engine three years ago with a Yanmar. They have a cutoff solenoid as part of the stock engine. They have it backwards however. Apply power to the solenoid to kill the engine. This means that you need an off-button. This is what the panel looks like now.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/key.JPG
I have no key on the panel. The top switch pulls out to supply power to the panel. The red button stops the engine, green starts it. I also put a key just above the engine so I can start the engine from inside the boat when working on it.
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Rich Carter
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Rich,
For the sake of trim and stability, clearly the ideal is to locate the heaviest things in a boat as close to the center of gravity as possible. Your main battery location accomplishes that in spades. Still, virtually every decision on a boat is a compromise, a trade-off. While your battery weight is ideally placed, as you noted the batteries themselves are subject to submersion should the bilges flood. You also have relatively long cable runs to carry current to and from that location, which translates into an additional installation cost and a small drop in voltage each way. All in all, though, I think you chose well. (Silver Heels has her holding tank under there.)
My battery locations shorten the cable lengths to a minimum and keep the batteries out of the water until later in the process of sinking, but the weight is not as close to the center of gravity as yours (but a lot better than Pearson’s solution). Compromises & trade-offs. I wonder if large battery installations way aft, like those near the steering quadrant, will have a noticeable effect on the boat’s trim and tendency to hobbyhorse. On a boat as stout as our 424’s, I suspect it’ll be at least tolerable.
Aaron, no doubt you’re now more confused on this issue than ever. Choose your poison!
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
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Rich,
Your engine control panel is a really good idea. When I repowered last winter I let my installer put the standard Yanmar panel on the bridge deck where the Westerbecke instruments were located. The problem with that location is that the panel uses a key start switch. The key stands proud of the bridge deck and it is easy to hit with your foot when going into and out of the companionway. I may steal your solution, eliminate the key switch and install start & stop to momentary buttons near the helm.
I was initially worried about someone stepping on the key and breaking it off on the panel. While we were motoring down the ICW last week one of us hit the key and moved it to the off position. This happened more than once although we were aware of the vulnerability of the key switcht. All of a sudden we'd notice the instruments were dead. I wish I had thought this through better when we were doing the re-power, but the instrument panel just wasn't something I was focused on.John
On Wed, Oct 29, 2008 at 9:47 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Aaron
Putting the batteries in the starboard locker doesn't make a lot of sense. At one point in time, I had large 6v batteries in there, like golf-cart batteries but much taller and heavier. It gave the boat a permanent list. I relocated the batteries to the bilge just forward of the sump. This puts them out of the way and where the weight will do some good. The drawback with this is that if you boat floods, your batteries will be under water. I have a separate starting battery that is on the shelf inside the hanging locker, so even if the bilge floods I still have power until that is underwater too. By then, I have bigger problems. I cut out the battery box and now have a huge locker for storage. Its full of stuff of course. Someone installed them under the steering quadrant. My autopilot is there, so I couldn't do the same. This limits the height of the battery, but otherwise looks to be a good spot if yours will fit.
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/album08The pull cable is expensive to replace and IMHO is a dumb idea. I tore it out and replace it with a solenoid lever made for that kind of thing. When you turn the key on, the solenoid pushes the kill lever to “ON” and when you turn the key off it returns it to “OFF”; just like a car.
I replaced the engine three years ago with a Yanmar. They have a cutoff solenoid as part of the stock engine. They have it backwards however. Apply power to the solenoid to kill the engine. This means that you need an off-button. This is what the panel looks like now.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/key.JPG
I have no key on the panel. The top switch pulls out to supply power to the panel. The red button stops the engine, green starts it. I also put a key just above the engine so I can start the engine from inside the boat when working on it.
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Rich Carter
Original message
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Quent,
The plywood bottoms in my Pearson battery boxes were also trashed by battery acid. Even after I removed all the wood and scrubbed the boxes repeatedly with baking soda (more than a year ago!), the sulfuric smell of the acid remains, albeit much diminished from what it was when I bought the boat.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
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Enjoy and be safe.
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On 10/29/08 7:26 AM, Silver Heels wrote :
Aaron, no doubt you’re now more confused on this issue than ever. Choose your poison!
My confusion is only because the PO spent megabucks on AGM batteries. I just bought a new 4d AGM and I’d like to keep them. None of the alternate spots seem to want to accommodate 4d’s easily though.
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Quent, I sure would like to see pix of your DC Generator, that’s another project high on my list.
I don’t think I’m emotionally ready for any of these projects. They are all major surgery.
I like the idea of putting them in the bilge, but I currently have a lot of stuff in the way, fridge compressor, saltwater washdown pump, holding overboard pump… Plus it’s my least favorite place in the boat to work.
Moving them forward in the lazarrette means doing something with the deck drain (what?) and then ‘sawzalling’ while in the lazarette that I don’t really wanna do.
I like the steering quadrant idea, but I think my autopilot’s there too, though it may be above the quadrant.
There’s a huge space between the engine and the fuel tank, but talk about hard to get to and heave a frikkin 4d into!
I actually already have a nice flat shelf in the port Lazarette on the forward bulkhead. I could put one battery on each side.
I think I should wait for the other AGM to die and then replace the whole kit and kaboodle with more, smaller wet cells.
On 10/29/08 9:55 AM, Aaron Lynch wrote :
On 10/29/08 7:26 AM, Silver Heels wrote :
Aaron, no doubt you’re now more confused on this issue than ever. Choose your poison!
My confusion is only because the PO spent megabucks on AGM batteries. I just bought a new 4d AGM and I’d like to keep them. None of the alternate spots seem to want to accommodate 4d’s easily though.
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