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Opening day at the yacht club, so naturally the boat wo’t start. 🙂 (worked fine a couple days ago.)
When I go to start the motor there’s a ‘click’ in the vicinity of the starter motor. It sounds like the solenoid’s engaging, but no motor spin.
Is there any troubleshooting I need to do to wiring, or should I just pull the starter and have them rebuild it?
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Aaron,
I'll let the more mechanically-inclined offer guidance on a possible starter problem. However the first thing I would check is the wiring, in particular your neg battery wire from the engine to the negative battery bus (or however it is implemented on your boat). It doesn't take a lot of current to close the solenoid, but if you have a loose or broken connection to the negative battery the starter may not turn. I fought that problem on my previous boat (intermittantly would not start) and found that the terminal lug on the engine has just about broken through.John
On Sun, Apr 19, 2009 at 2:27 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Opening day at the yacht club, so naturally the boat wo’t start. 🙂 (worked fine a couple days ago.)
When I go to start the motor there’s a ‘click’ in the vicinity of the starter motor. It sounds like the solenoid's engaging, but no motor spin.
Is there any troubleshooting I need to do to wiring, or should I just pull the starter and have them rebuild it?
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hit the solenoid with a hammer..a firm tap should do it. The solendoid may be getting stuck. Sometimes that will be sufficient for a few starts and then it will need replacing.
Or, it might be the starter….^-^— On Sun, 4/19/09, Aaron Lynch <> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Just to add my two cents…
I agree with with Linus, check the connections. I had a similar issue last year..it was a loose connection at the battery.
My experiences working the the boat this weekend echo that refrain; always check the connections. Last year, my high-water bilge alarm stopped working as well as a my knot log. Today, I was working on the boat and decided to tackle these two issues. First I started checking the connections and found two loose connections (one was the neg and the other was a faulty connector). Feeling good, I moved on to the knot log. I re-adjusted the connection and pulled the “spinny thing”…and again success.
Always check the connections first.
— On Sun, 4/19/09, Linus Martinez <> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Take a screwdriver from the starting swithch to the + positive terminal, the one on top, and I bet it will start, sounds exactly what I have been experiencing.
-p
Sent from my phoneOn Apr 19, 2009, at 11:27, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Opening day at the yacht club, so naturally the boat wo’t start. 🙂 (worked fine a couple days ago.)
When I go to start the motor there’s a ‘click’ in the vicinity of the starter motor. It sounds like the solenoid’s engaging, but no motor spin.
Is there any troubleshooting I need to do to wiring, or should I just pull the starter and have them rebuild it?
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
The other day I was testing my engine prior to a big trip – up the Hudson for a haulout. Very slow turning over and wouldn't start – three fully charged 4D batteries. What was wrong?
Simple – big wire from ground buss to engine block end fittings corroded (and incidentally oily) – disconnected, cleaned with sandpaper, rebolted, and hey! Presto! Badaboom, badabing, all's well!
Whew!
Seriously, though, check that connection – it's copper on steel.
Bob
On Sun, Apr 19, 2009 at 6:53 PM, John Sommer < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Just to add my two cents…I agree with with Linus, check the connections. I had a similar issue last year..it was a loose connection at the battery.
My experiences working the the boat this weekend echo that refrain; always check the connections. Last year, my high-water bilge alarm stopped working as well as a my knot log. Today, I was working on the boat and decided to tackle these two issues. First I started checking the connections and found two loose connections (one was the neg and the other was a faulty connector). Feeling good, I moved on to the knot log. I re-adjusted the connection and pulled the “spinny thing”…and again success.
Always check the connections first.
— On Sun, 4/19/09, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Always check the connections.
I just feel like an IDIOT.
I had done the screwdriver into the switch terminals. Click. Ok, not the switch.
Got a voltmeter, had GF hit starter button and no juice from solenoid. That’s it, found the problem and confirmed my initial diagnosis solenoid is shot!
Then I get this email that says “Always check the connection”
Well, ok, whatever, it can’t be that simple! This little wire from the solenoid is a little loose but I’ll tighten it just to prove it can’t be that simple.
Damn. It was that simple.
It still won’t really start but it is turning over now.
So…- Check juice to the glow plugs
- bleed air
Anything else to look for initially?
I dunno why I feel so helpless troubleshooting this stuff all of a sudden.Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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How fast is it turning over? Normal speed? Too slow?
Bob
On Sun, Apr 19, 2009 at 9:49 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
> Always check the connections.
I just feel like an IDIOT.
I had done the screwdriver into the switch terminals. Click. Ok, not the switch.
Got a voltmeter, had GF hit starter button and no juice from solenoid. That’s it, found the problem and confirmed my initial diagnosis solenoid is shot!
Then I get this email that says “Always check the connection”
Well, ok, whatever, it can’t be that simple! This little wire from the solenoid is a little loose but I’ll tighten it just to prove it can’t be that simple.
Damn. It was that simple.
It still won’t really start but it is turning over now.
So…- Check juice to the glow plugs
- bleed air
Anything else to look for initially?
I dunno why I feel so helpless troubleshooting this stuff all of a sudden.—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Normal
On 4/19/09 7:07 PM, Robert Fine wrote :
How fast is it turning over? Normal speed? Too slow?
Bob
On Sun, Apr 19, 2009 at 9:49 PM, Aaron Lynch <> wrote:
> Always check the connections.
I just feel like an IDIOT.
I had done the screwdriver into the switch terminals. Click. Ok, not the switch.
Got a voltmeter, had GF hit starter button and no juice from solenoid. That’s it, found the problem and confirmed my initial diagnosis solenoid is shot!
Then I get this email that says “Always check the connection”
Well, ok, whatever, it can’t be that simple! This little wire from the solenoid is a little loose but I’ll tighten it just to prove it can’t be that simple.
Damn. It was that simple.
It still won’t really start but it is turning over now.
So…- Check juice to the glow plugs
- bleed air
Anything else to look for initially?
I dunno why I feel so helpless troubleshooting this stuff all of a sudden.Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Please excuse me if I sound like I’m repeating myself. The starter is a service item. Think of it as an oil filter that needs service less frequently. If you want to dependably start your engine, you need to pull the starter every few years and send it out for service. A good starter shop should service your starter for less than $100. Removal is normally trivial. Considering the problems that a bad starter can cause and the relatively low cost of servicing the item, there is really no reason not to get it serviced regularly. While you have the starter out, clean off the contacts. I service mine every three years; even if there are no symptoms of problems. Each year I service one item in rotation, the starter, the alternator, the V-drive cooling jacket.
Regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Ok, then, now we're getting somewhere. Normal speed turning over means there are only two things that could be causing a problem. The first is air. I assume you're not living in a vacuum, so that leaves fuel. Maybe glow plugs, but it's unusual for all of them to go at once. Even so, the engine will eventually start with the glow plugs not functioning. It's easy enough to check – while they are being activated by some associate, measure the voltage from the tip where the conductor connects them all to a good ground. You should also hear a click from the glow plug relay when you press the button. You should also see the voltage drop on the engine panel meter. If none of those happen, the probability is that the glow plug solenoid is not working and you should clean the connections. It's the solenoid at the top forward (to the boat) end of the engine, just above the coolers.
If that's working, then fuel is the issue. If you still have the shutoff solenoid on the top of the tank, take it out and mate the fuel line together. You don't need it and it has a tendency to fail. You can also remove the purple wire to the engine panel if you like.
With the key on you should hear the electric pump click every so often, especially if you're bleeding the fuel system. You can open the bleeder bolt on the top inboard side of the fuel filter mounted to the engine. The bolt points inboard. With the key on, loosening that bolt will result in a pretty fair stream of fuel. Have a rag handy. If you have fuel there in a strong stream, then you have fuel to the high pressure pump. If you do not there may be a filter in the pump that needs replacing or the pump itself needs its connections checked or it needs replacing. Make sure there's power to it.
Beyond that, you're delving into diesel mechanic's areas and although I'd do it without hesitation, I won't recommend it to anyone who feels the slightest bit nervous fooling with the high pressure system.
So, I've given you all that I would do to try to repair this. It should take about an hour to try all this.
Good luck!
Bob
On Mon, Apr 20, 2009 at 2:18 AM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Normal
On 4/19/09 7:07 PM, Robert Fine wrote :
How fast is it turning over? Normal speed? Too slow?
Bob
On Sun, Apr 19, 2009 at 9:49 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
> Always check the connections.
I just feel like an IDIOT.
I had done the screwdriver into the switch terminals. Click. Ok, not the switch.
Got a voltmeter, had GF hit starter button and no juice from solenoid. That’s it, found the problem and confirmed my initial diagnosis solenoid is shot!
Then I get this email that says “Always check the connection”
Well, ok, whatever, it can’t be that simple! This little wire from the solenoid is a little loose but I’ll tighten it just to prove it can’t be that simple.
Damn. It was that simple.
It still won’t really start but it is turning over now.
So…- Check juice to the glow plugs
- bleed air
Anything else to look for initially?
I dunno why I feel so helpless troubleshooting this stuff all of a sudden.—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Geez, Bob, you could be the third Click-&-Clack brother. Well done!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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If that's working, then fuel is the issue. If you still have the shutoff solenoid on the top of the tank, take it out and mate the fuel line together.
There's a small set screw on the front of the solenoid that will manually overide the cutoff fuction, turn it 90 degrees. Check that the fuel solenoid is getting voltage when the key is turned on. Could be another lose connection. The solenoid is probably at the top of the tank. W58 or W60?
ChuckPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hi Chuck,
I removed mine because even turning the stupid screw wouldn't allow enough fuel to pass. I don't know why. All I know is once gone the problem went with it!
Bob
On Mon, Apr 20, 2009 at 10:24 AM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
If that's working, then fuel is the issue. If you still have the shutoff solenoid on the top of the tank, take it out and mate the fuel line together.
There's a small set screw on the front of the solenoid that will manually overide the cutoff fuction, turn it 90 degrees. Check that the fuel solenoid is getting voltage when the key is turned on. Could be another lose connection. The solenoid is probably at the top of the tank. W58 or W60?
Chuck—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hi Aaron,
Chuck Ruble wrote to me indicating that the solenoid is an anti-siphon valve to prevent the spilling of up to 80 gallons into the bilge were the fuel line were compromised.
Even though I took mine out, you should consider fixing or replacing yours rather than just chucking it. It could prevent a rather unhappy day if your fuel line failed… That's assuming the solenoid is the problem with your starting.
It can be cleaned and they still are available at auto/truck parts stores.
Regards,
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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