staysail rig mast hound

[Tor]

I’ve just had a staysail mast hound made. Thought I’d share the triumph. It’s probably stronger than
necessary, but I can live with that. A machine shop a block away from where I’m berthed fabricated it, using a
1/4″ x 2″ piece of flat bar I brought him, shaping, drilling and machining/adding the nose piece from his own
stock, all for an amazing $70 price tag! It’s not yacht finish because I didn’t care about that. I even asked
him to not grind down the heavy welds for cosmetic purposes, preferring to retain their full strength. By
comparison, former Metal Mast fabricator, Richard Conti, will make a beautifully finished (if less beefy)
hound for a $475.

A photo of each is attached. You’ll have no trouble identifying which is which.

Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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[Hull152_Patrick]

Do you plan to polish the fitting yourself? The reason I ask is that I thought (and I could be wrong) that the reason to polish stainless steel was to remove as many imperfections as possible to prevent surface corrosion and pitting.

Now at $70 you could buy one of these every two years so I guess its less of an issue, but I’m curious what you all think about the polishing and corrosion. I think I learned that at the Brion Toss rigging class I took, but I’m not feeling very vague on that.

Thanks,
-p

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[madsailor]

Stainless, or more properly, corrosion resistant steel works by oxidizing the chromium in the steel at the surface.  Polishing, in many cases, removes the oxide and actually allows a faster corrosion.  A better process is what is called 'passivating' that uses a paste with nitric acid in it to actually remove the iron oxides and present a clean chrome surface to oxidize instead.  Chrome has an extremely tenacious oxide, like aluminum only shiner.

Bob

On Wed, Mar 11, 2009 at 1:52 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Do you plan to polish the fitting yourself? The reason I ask is that I thought (and I could be wrong) that the reason to polish stainless steel was to remove as many imperfections as possible to prevent surface corrosion and pitting.

Now at $70 you could buy one of these every two years so I guess its less of an issue, but I'm curious what you all think about the polishing and corrosion. I think I learned that at the Brion Toss rigging class I took, but I'm not feeling very vague on that.

Thanks,
-p

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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[Hull152_Patrick]

OK, never mind….. they don’t’ seem to care about the polish.
http://briontoss.com/spartalk/showthread.php?t=79&highlight=stainless+polish

But here’s how you can do it if you want to:
http://briontoss.com/spartalk/showthread.php?t=545&highlight=stainless+polish

-p

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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Tor]

Well, all that is too advanced for this country boy. I do not plan to polish or otherwise fuss with this piece. Its sheer thickness, not to mention the fact that it’ll live 27′ above the coachhouse, leaves me believing it’ll outlive all of us. And I’m going to live until 2073. After that it’s the next owner’s problem.

I have added a 1/8″ sheathing of a Teflon-like plastic as a barrier between the inside of the stainless steel hound strap and the surface of the aluminum mast, to avoid any kind of electrolysis there.

Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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[RichCarter]

Tor
If you chose to polish the item, send it out for electroplating. I fabricated a nice backstay chainplate and spent a couple of hours polishing it. It came out great, but tarnishes. I later learned that electropolishing takes out surface contamination. I had the same thing happen to stainless davits I made, but I just painted them over. It would have been easier if I skipped the polishing process and went right to paint.

Rich

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[RichCarter]

Pat
From my experience, this isn’t enough. I think you still need to electropolish the item.
Rich

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