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I recently did ours
Heat gun to remove all old varnish…..one coat of a high UV clear varnish diluted 50% as a sealer….2 coats diluted 30%…..2 coats diluted 10%…3 coats diluted 5%.
Cure 24 hours between coats.
Sand between coats using 400 grit paper.
Looks great.
Add 2 coats each year and you should be good.Have fun!
Joe,
S/V Half Moon________________________________
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Brown exterior or topside paint. Unless your teak is in great condition.
Mine’s all chewed up.Someone here replaced it all with stainless steel.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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Here is another way. Take the boat to the Caribbean for 6 months. Let it peel in the sun. Every now than then pick off more pieces. Sometimes when your sailing and bored to death, take a piece of sand paper and sand for 15 or 20 minutes till you get bored to death.
Eventually you have have the teak bare…. then do what Joe did.
alan— On Sun, 3/21/10, Joseph Steiner wrote:
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Depends on a where you are. NE or South (hot Sun)
How much work you want to do to maintain it
How rough you are on the teak and if you want to treat it like furniture.
What color you want and are pleased with varnish or Cetol.My advise and it’s not worth all that much…. don’t become a slave to your teak…The minute you turn your back on it, It will look like you never touched it. No matter what you use. Unless of course you can afford to have it maintained for you, then go for the varish.
Alan
sv UNABATED
riding the anchor in St John USVI— On Sun, 3/21/10, Adam wrote:
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I pulled all of the teak hand rails off the deck and replaced them with stainless hand rails. The hand rails are through bolted on 20 inch with three 1/4 inch bolts. They provide excellent strength for securing all of the stuff I have on the deck. I also removed the eyebrow which was the source of several leaks. I like the clean look removing the eyebrow gives the boat.
Lee
Morning Glory________________________________
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Hi Lee, I don’t follow the eyebrow remark. Photo?
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I also removed the teak eyebrow trim above the portlights. It was put on
with wood screws and a small amount of silicon caulk that had long dried up
and pulled away and was a source of much leaking and interior teak damage.I’m letting the varnish flake off of my toe rail when I’m not actively
scraping at it. When I pulled the port toe rail track to replace it, I took
a heat gun and scraper to that whole flat section and removed all the
varnish.Natural teak is our plan…
-=p
On Sun, Mar 21, 2010 at 10:27 AM, Thatcher A. Stone wrote:
Quote:Hi Lee, I don’t follow the eyebrow remark. Photo?
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
The eyebrow is what I call the small strip of teak that runs the length of the cabin/house. I averaged one leak for every fourth screw. Those leaks did horrible things to the 1/4 inch plywood that runs along the edge of the cabin top.
I’ll have to get a camera and take some pictures and then get someone to post them to the 424 group.Lee
(who still relies on slide rules)________________________________
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My port eyebrow (already had been recaulked) leaked on the way to Bermuda last October. What a freaking mess it made. Water leaked into all storage areas in the salon. Water driped into the after berth. The cushions in the vee berth got wet. Been 6 months now and the cushions are still damp.
We took the eyebrow off in Bermuda and instead of just caulking around each screw, I ran a bead along the entire upper edge and around each screw. have taken some pretty good water since and everything is dry as a bone.
Now, as a practical mater, depending on what kind of ports you have and how far they “stick out”, the eyebrow acts as a drip edge. If you remove the eyebrow completely make sure your not going to have water running down into the ports. I am not talking when it’s really raining becasue you’ll have the ports closed. But when it’s a light rain and you still the ports open….
alan— On Sun, 3/21/10, Lee Yonkers wrote:
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Are the eyebrows only aesthetic? If so it would seem removing it and
filling the holes with epoxy and gel coat would be the functional solution,
no?On Sun, Mar 21, 2010 at 4:56 PM, Alan wrote:
My port eyebrow (already had been recaulked) leaked on the way to Bermuda
last October.
— On Sun, 3/21/10, Lee Yonkers wrote:_______________________________________________
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I opted for bare exterior teak. Stripped off the PO’s totally sun burnt
Cetol, sanded & teak-cleaned the wood and applied 2 or 3 coats of good teak
oil. It looked like a million bucks for about a week, then turned grey, a
practical, “salty” look I don’t mind. Now I scrub the teak every 6 months or
so with detergent and a little bleach, rinse & dry it and oil it again. This
will keep it healthy forever. Other than painting, this is the least
labor-intensive way to deal with exterior teak. It makes sense for a
cruiser, but you have to be OK with that look.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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PS: It’s important to scrub the teak with a 3M-type scrub pad, NOT with a
bristle brush. A brush will eventually scour out the softer grain wood and
produce a coarse, ridged texture.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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They are certainly not structural. If you have the original low profile
portlights they would offer a very small amount of shielding in a light
sprinkle. If you have new portholes with proper spigots and framing (Like my
new portlighs from New Found Metals) then the eyebrow is purely cosmetic.On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 7:25 AM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Are the eyebrows only aesthetic? If so it would seem removing it and
filling the holes with epoxy and gel coat would be the functional solution,
no?On Sun, Mar 21, 2010 at 4:56 PM, Alan wrote:
My port eyebrow (already had been recaulked) leaked on the way to Bermuda
last October.
— On Sun, 3/21/10, Lee Yonkers wrote:_______________________________________________
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
I took all my exterior teak all the way to bare about 18 months ago. I used three coats of Cetol color and three coats of Cetol clear. I thought it would have lasted a little longer but I have several patches that I’m going to have to re-do. If I ever get that inspired again I may try just varnish.
Jack “MOJO” hull 183Calico Jack
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Since I’m in the tail end of my refit let me just say, everything on a boat
requires sanding… seriously… everything. 😉-p
On Thu, Mar 25, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Adam wrote:
I am afraid of all the hard work needed to remove a two part varnish in the
future. I’m going to try Epifane woodfinish gloss. It says it doesn’t
require sanding in between coats.I hope it works!
Adam
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
back to the discussion of the teak eyebrow:
Here’s a shot of the original Beckson portlights with the eyebrow trim
removed
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4126824631/in/set-72157622793614824/Here’s
a shot of my new found metals portlight in the foreground and one of the
old, soon to be replaced, bowmar portlights. You can see the NFM sits more
proud of the hull than the Bowmar and the Bowmar sits more proud than hte
Beckson.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4463766927/in/set-72157622793614824/-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
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How did you handle the one in the head?
Be careful as you walk around the deck in bare feet, Yes they stand proud and have VERY sharp edges….. your toes will tell you when you get too close.
alan— On Fri, 3/26/10, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
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I have tried around 4-5 different brands of varnish and cetol as well. By far the best I have tried so far is Epifane high gloss with high UV additive content. While it does require a very light sanding with 400 grit, the result is spectacular. You have to have a love for teak, though. The sanding between coats is a relatively easy step and assures better adhesion.
I love teak and find that the Pearson 424 has just the right amount. I especially love the eyebrow and hand holds.Joe,
Half Moon________________________________
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As an experiment, I tried coating the combing deck trim with epoxy followed by three coats of epifanes last year. It worked pretty well for the summer. Varnished teak looks great when its maintained. I keep the boat covered during the winter layup period. I went up on the boat last week and to my disappointment the varnish has separated from the wood. Its turned yellow. It will all have to be stripped and redone. I don’t know what I’ll do. I’ve used cetol for years, but it builds up and darkens. The it starts lifting and makes a mottled mess out of the brightwork. Back to square-1 every three years or so with sandpaper and teak cleaner. I’ve considered sealing it with varnish and then applying brown house paint over the varnish. The varnish would prevent the paint from getting into the wood grain should I later change my mind. If I chose the paint well it would probably look OK from 50 feet. If someone wants to get closer and bitch about my brightwork I’d be happy to hand them a paintbrush.
Regards
Rich
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I don’t know how good of an adhesion you would get between an epoxy and a varnish. But I doubt it would be very good. I start with clean teak, sanded with 180 or 220 grit paper, then apply a 50% diluted coat as a sealer, then 2 coats at 30%. A total of 8 coats is needed for the North. In the tropics you need 10 coats. No short cuts. It looks beautiful.
The hardest part is the prep work. The coats are quite easy. So, if you paint, it’s a lot of work too. And you have to look at it, not from 50 feet but from a few feet, and the paint will look like cr*p, as it dulls.^_^
Joe,________________________________
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