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Hi there,
I was hoping to gain some info from those who’ve moved a P424 by truck. I’ve got to get my boat from seattle down to SoCal (and sailing it is out). So looking to truck it.I’d love to know:
What my be a typical cost for decommissioning/prepping for truck (at departure boatyard)?
What typical cost might be for recommission/splashing (at arrival boatyard)?Also, does anyone know the height of the boat (not the mast)… just from bottom of keel, to the highest point on the deck (I assume this will be the bow pulpit, but could be something else).
Also, if people have moved via truck, did you have to remove the stations and pulpits… I’d really like to avoid that.
Any other insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,paul
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I moved my 422 (the center cockpit layout of the 424) by truck. Loading was pretty straightforward. Pull the mast, haul the boat with the travel lift and set it down on the trailer, block and brace. Other than that just secure everything below. The bow pulpit was the highest point for me. Been 3 years so not sure exactly but if I recall about 13′.
The hauler I used had a hydraulic trailer with built in jacks so no cradle was needed. Not sure if they all work that way.
I had mine trucked inland for a long tern refit so a slightly different situation but from what you plan but relaunching is just the reverse. Take the trailer to the yard, drive the travel lift over the boat, strap, lift and launch.
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Years ago when I was a yacht dealer, I used to truck boats cross-country
fairly often.Costs:
– Decide which boat yards you will use, then call them and ask for estimates
and for owner preparation suggestions. They’ve done this stuff before and
should know what it entails.
– Ask for trucker recommendations.
– Just for grins, find out what a professional delivery skipper would charge
to sail the boat down for you.Spars
– The spars will need to be securely lashed on the deck or coachhouse for
the trip. Be fussy about that; inspect them closely before the truck pulls
out, looking for areas that will chafe as the truck bounces along the
highway. Pad those areas very well. Otherwise you may wind up with a damaged
mast, boom and/or deck. Truckers and boat yards are not always as careful as
they should be about this detail.Trucker
– Shop around and let them know you’re comparing bids. You’d be surprised at
how much trucking charges vary from company to company.
– Be sure they regularly carry yachts, even if you pay a little more for
that experience.
– Ask the trucking company for owner/yard preparation suggestions.
– Obtain a copy of the trucker’s insurance coverage (in advance), and then
check with your insurance provider about coverage for the trip.Tanks
– Although for such a short road trip this may not be necessary, I’d use the
preparation as an opportunity to empty and clean the water tanks, and either
empty or top off the fuel (unless the insurance or regulations require empty
fuel tanks – the trucking company should know about that).Reef early,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Having prepared my last boat for shipping to Michigan from NY, I concur
with Tor. The only difference is that newer boat trailers have special
racks for spars alongside the hull. At least my shipper did.I prepped the mast and boom for shipping so I padded all the spots that
touched or rubbed. Also, I checked that everything was tied down properly
so it wouldn’t move about or jiggle.It’s a lot of work but not difficult. I wrapped the mast in bubble wrap.
The halyards were pulled all the way up and coiled and wrapped at the base,
along with the standing rigging. Spreaders were removed and stowed below.You can read about this at:
The boat arrived after the 2500 mile journey in perfect shape. I had to
empty the fuel and water tanks.Bob
On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 7:09 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Years ago when I was a yacht dealer, I used to truck boats cross-country
fairly often.Costs:
– Decide which boat yards you will use, then call them and ask for
estimates
and for owner preparation suggestions. They’ve done this stuff before and
should know what it entails.
– Ask for trucker recommendations.
– Just for grins, find out what a professional delivery skipper would
charge
to sail the boat down for you.Spars
– The spars will need to be securely lashed on the deck or coachhouse for
the trip. Be fussy about that; inspect them closely before the truck pulls
out, looking for areas that will chafe as the truck bounces along the
highway. Pad those areas very well. Otherwise you may wind up with a
damaged
mast, boom and/or deck. Truckers and boat yards are not always as careful
as
they should be about this detail.Trucker
– Shop around and let them know you’re comparing bids. You’d be surprised
at
how much trucking charges vary from company to company.
– Be sure they regularly carry yachts, even if you pay a little more for
that experience.
– Ask the trucking company for owner/yard preparation suggestions.
– Obtain a copy of the trucker’s insurance coverage (in advance), and then
check with your insurance provider about coverage for the trip.Tanks
– Although for such a short road trip this may not be necessary, I’d use
the
preparation as an opportunity to empty and clean the water tanks, and
either
empty or top off the fuel (unless the insurance or regulations require
empty
fuel tanks – the trucking company should know about that).Reef early,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Oops, try this: http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com/2007_05_01_archive.html
On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 7:20 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Oh, and a heavy tarp or plastic covering the forward third of the hull may
save you having to clean off splattered road tar and insects.Quote:
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Good point, Pete. Actually, I believe the builders who shipped new boats to
me used something like that heavy-duty white shrink-wrap stuff that some New
Englanders use for winter covers. That doesn’t shred or flap around.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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How about a horse?
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Recognize that fellow with the horse?
On Saturday, November 9, 2013 9:20 AM, Silverheels wrote:
I dunno, Joe. How ABOUT a horse?
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Just trucked my 424 fro Houston to San Diego. Cost me $1500 to decommission. $6000 to move and $5500 to re-commission. Another $2400 for bottom job , waxing hull, and crane work. I had to do all removal of rigging, prep for trucking, and removal of radar myself. I re-wired both masts and sail installation plus other myself. Good luck and keep your checkbook handy. – Steve
Sent from my iPad
On Nov 8, 2013, at 5:57 PM, “pma_foyl” wrote:
Hi there,
I was hoping to gain some info from those who’ve moved a P424 by truck. I’ve got to get my boat from seattle down to SoCal (and sailing it is out). So looking to truck it.I’d love to know:
What my be a typical cost for decommissioning/prepping for truck (at departure boatyard)?
What typical cost might be for recommission/splashing (at arrival boatyard)?Also, does anyone know the height of the boat (not the mast)… just from bottom of keel, to the highest point on the deck (I assume this will be the bow pulpit, but could be something else).
Also, if people have moved via truck, did you have to remove the stations and pulpits… I’d really like to avoid that.
Any other insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,paul
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Hi Tor,
It’s almost always less expensive to truck than ship when it’s over a few
days trip. A full crew costs about $500 per day plus expenses like
dockage, fuel and food as well as travel. You can find cheaper crew but
would you trust your baby to scallywags?The recommissioning costs sound outrageously expensive. What can you
possibly do for that amount of money? Putting the masts back on and dumping
the boat in the water should be around $1000. I guess San Diego is really
expensive – more than Stamford CT, that’s for sure.Bob
On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 5:40 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Paul, check on the cost of a delivery captain & crew.Tor
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Hi Everyone,
thank you all for your input. I’ve very glad to see some dollar-figures. I’ve been told “oh, $1500 – $2000 at each each end, plus $5000 for trucking” by many sailors who’ve explored trucking, but never actually done it.
Here’s what I’m finding so far:
Trucking – $5600 to $7800 in range (from 4 different trucking outfits)
De-commissioning – $3400 – $4400 (2 different Seattle quotes)
(include hauling, complete teardown, truck prep, labeling of electronics, plus winterizing for mountain passes)
Re-commissioning – $4400 – $4900 (3 different yard quotes in Ventura, CA)
(includes restepping, tuning rig, hooking up electronics, splashing)
So, not including everything that will break and need replacing along the way, it looks like it could be $13,500-ish to $17,800-ish. I could save some down, by reassembling the electronics myself, but it’s just not that much.I’ve considered a delivery captain/crew, but for this trip, it’d be a crew of three for 14 days; that quickly ramps into the realm of the truck delivery PLUS the wear-n-tear, PLUS it’s people I don’t know on my boat. There is also the very real possibility, that something significant breaks underway, which could strand the boat somewhere at massive additional expense and headache.
I’d love to sail it down myself, but this is NOT the time of year you want to be sailing the PacNW coastline if you can avoid it. And it’s mostly academic, because I won’t be able to find two weeks free (or a decent 2 week weather window) anytime soon.
I’ll be figuring out the trucking stuff some more and I’ll provide more info as I go. Also happy to hear about others costs.
Thanks again to all.
Best,P
On Sunday, November 10, 2013 5:09 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Tor,
It’s almost always less expensive to truck than ship when it’s over a few
days trip. A full crew costs about $500 per day plus expenses like
dockage, fuel and food as well as travel. You can find cheaper crew but
would you trust your baby to scallywags?The recommissioning costs sound outrageously expensive. What can you
possibly do for that amount of money? Putting the masts back on and dumping
the boat in the water should be around $1000. I guess San Diego is really
expensive – more than Stamford CT, that’s for sure.Bob
On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 5:40 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Paul, check on the cost of a delivery captain & crew.Tor
Quote:
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Paul,
I truck my boat home each year for winter storage. Preping it for transportation is the same as preping it to be hauled for any other reason. You of course must pull the mast and lace up your rigging for shipment. All canvass must of course be stowed and anything below must be stowed. Height above pavement is about 13’4″, more or less depending on how the boat sits on the trailer. Antennae on the pushpit must be stowed but nothing else is an issue. I usually lash the rudder amid-ships and latch the hatches.The only issue might be if you haven’t pulled your mast in several years. As discussed earlier, the mast step can corrode, making it difficult or impossible to pull the mast.
I pay $700 each way for transportation to my home, about 50 miles from my boatyard. The shipper can transport my mast for an additional charge. They hang it on the side of the trailer using special brackets.
Rich
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Holy smokes, $3400 + $4400 to decommission/recommission!! It costs me about $600 round-trip. This includes hauling, launching, power-washing and pulling and stepping the mast. I use my yacht club yard which is less than commercial so double this or even tripple it, but not 10X.
I assume that you have a radome on your mast. The stock 424 has a set of wiring blocks under the seat in the V-berth that allow you to disconnect the stock wiring harness in a few minutes. Your RADAR should have a wiring connector at the base of the mast to allow the mast to be pulled. If not, you’ll have to disconnect the harness at the back of your RADAR unit and pull the cable through to the base of the mast. Coil up the wiring and stuff it inside the base of the mast. Put duck tape across the mast base to keep the cables from sliding out during shipment.
Pulling the mast is pretty easy. Three guys can do it in an hour using a small crane. I’ve used a local sign company or my local rigger. My yacht club got a small crane last year so they do it for me now. It costs me $60 each way. Even a greedy boat yard can’t charge more than $500 to pull your mast. You hook onto the mast just above the spreaders near the seam using a mast sling. You run a down-haul from the sling to your winches. Take the slack out of the crane cable and pull the pins on your rigging. The mast should come right out. You need a tag-line at the base of the mast to position it across two saw-horses.
You might have to take your radome off the mast. When I truck my mast home, I don’t bother. The shipper hangs the mast on the side of the truck and they tuck the radome inward away from passing vehicles. I remove the halyards and lace the mast up tight with sisal cord. There is no need to remove the stays, but lace-up the turnbuckles so they don’t unscrew and drop on the road. Pad the roller furler so doesn’t get damaged.
I paint my boat bottom myself as do most owners. It takes about 4 hours to roll-on a coat of paint. If you’re picky and wet-sand afterward, add another 4 hours.
Winterizing takes about 8 jugs of RV anti-freeze and about 2 hours. Drain the water tanks and water heater. Dump a jug in each water tank and your holding tank. Dump a jug in your toilet. Run a jug through your engine cooling system. Dump some in the bilge. Don’t forget to drain the water heater.
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